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Automotive Your car leaking? Want to discuss your cherry GTO? Discuss all engine powered four-wheeled contraptions here.

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 9:17 AM
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Default LiquiVac oil change system: Does it Work?

Pop Up Video

I thought some might find this interesting.
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Old 10-22-2009, 7:29 PM
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Cool

YES, it DOES work!

I own a LiquiVac, the regular 2-gallon size, not the small engine version which I didn't know existed until I watched the video.

I use my LiquiVac for doing topside oil changes in my car. I own a 2002 VW Golf TDI (diesel) and I do the entire oil change including filter change without having to get under the car. I suck oil out thru the dipstick tube. The (diesel) engine uses a cartridge type filter and it drops into a vertical housing on the engine. I use the LiquiVac to suck oil out of the oil filter housing and oil cooler below the housing. I found that sucking oil out with an extractor pump does a better job of getting all of the old oil out compared to using the conventional oil change method (drain from oil pan). The engine in my car "hides" about half a quart of oil if I only drained it out from the bottom. Using the LiquiVac pump takes a little longer in my particular case but does a better job of getting all the old oil out.

Some people have asked me "what about sludge at the bottom of the pan?" First off, if you've got any sludge buildup, you've already got bigger problems to worry about with your engine. In my car, sludge is a non-issue because diesels don't sludge the oil like gassers do. They push soot into the oil and turn it ink black instantly (100% normal, nothing to worry about) but don't sludge the oil. Mine specifically requires synthetic oil and synthetic oil is best sludge preventer there is so there's never any sludge to worry about. Anyhow, the LiquiVac pump works well for doing topside oil changes. In my case, I don't have to get under the car at all to do an oil change. And my diesel's (proven) conservative 10k mile oil change interval makes it convenient.

The LiquiVac pump DOES work as advertised.

www.TDICLUB.com
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Last edited by n1das; 10-22-2009 at 7:39 PM..
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Old 11-08-2009, 9:27 PM
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What is the price on this or a link for more info?

Frank
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:01 PM
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Just Google "liquivac" and you will get all of your questions answered.
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Old 11-14-2009, 9:51 AM
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I don't see how this method would ever completely remove all the old oil, and especially all the crap that settles in the bottom of the pan. For a total thorough removal of old oil and sludge, you need to drain it. Make sure it's hot too.
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Old 11-16-2009, 8:42 PM
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I have been using the large model for the past 4 years or so to do the oil changes on my I/O boat motor. It, or other similar tools are the only way to remove the oil in installations like mine without dumping it to the bilge (not really an option as you could never get to the drain plug to pull it!). It works fine, didn't see any sludge or gunk in the pan when I swapped out motors in August. That motor went in 4 years earlier and saw moderate service until I got stupid one day and killed it..........thats another story best told with beer to numb the pain.
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Old 01-01-2010, 5:15 PM
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I guess it would be better than not changing your oil. I don't think it would be as good at removing all the old oil as the old fashioned way. The best way to change your oil is to drain it from the oil plug. Run the car a bit just to warm up the oil so it flows out nicely. You have to get under the car anyway (in most cases) to change the filter, so why not change the oil why you're at it.
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Old 01-01-2010, 5:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_Air View Post
I guess it would be better than not changing your oil. I don't think it would be as good at removing all the old oil as the old fashioned way. The best way to change your oil is to drain it from the oil plug. Run the car a bit just to warm up the oil so it flows out nicely. You have to get under the car anyway (in most cases) to change the filter, so why not change the oil why you're at it.
I know of no reason the old way is better.
Even the "sludge" argument is kind of moot on a modern engine if you change your oil regularly.
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Old 01-01-2010, 6:33 PM
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I installed one of these to make the job quicker and easier:

QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
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Old 01-01-2010, 9:05 PM
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MPSCS you have one on your car is it hard to turn that valve .?? We have issue's in the trucks we drive with things comming up and hitting them on the air tanks and it will turn them or brake them off . Now our driving condition's are more extreme than most. With driving in and out of landfill's .
So I ask does it look like it may get turned easy? I might put them on my Crown Vic and the wifes
F150
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Old 01-01-2010, 9:33 PM
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Quote:
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MPSCS you have one on your car is it hard to turn that valve .?? We have issue's in the trucks we drive with things comming up and hitting them on the air tanks and it will turn them or brake them off . Now our driving condition's are more extreme than most. With driving in and out of landfill's .
So I ask does it look like it may get turned easy? I might put them on my Crown Vic and the wifes
F150
I've had no problems with it. You have to remember there is a spring loaded safety lock on it, so it doesn't accidentally open. You have to put a little pressure on it, then turn it. The link below illustrates what I'm talking about:

Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve - GETAHELMET.COM

I have it installed on a 2005 Saturn VUE (Honda V6), and it's up high and out of the way, so no risk of anything hitting it. They do sell variations of it, with, and without a hose nipple, right angle, and also extensions. Below are some pictures I found using Google that show some of the options:
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Old 01-01-2010, 9:56 PM
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Ok thank you sir I like the pix you sent gives a more clear look at it . I like the lock ring that looks safe to me Thanks
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:08 PM
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Ok thank you sir I like the pix you sent gives a more clear look at it . I like the lock ring that looks safe to me Thanks

Your very welcome! I'm going to be 60 this year, so it's getting less desirable to crawl under the truck. Anything to make it easer and faster!

Everyone gives me a hard time because I still change my own oil & filter. I used to be a mechanic and I take comfort in knowing it's done right. I've heard too many horror stories about the Quick-Change Oil services!
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
I know of no reason the old way is better.
Even the "sludge" argument is kind of moot on a modern engine if you change your oil regularly.
Do whatever you want with your oil. Take it to the quick lube, change it yourself, change it blindfolded, or don't change it at all; I really don't care.
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:50 PM
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Do whatever you want with your oil. Take it to the quick lube, change it yourself, change it blindfolded, or don't change it at all; I really don't care.
What an interesting response.

I did not say (or even imply) what I did, but somehow you felt the need to assume (and incorrectly at that) and comment.

And then claimed not to care, but cared enough to make the comment based on an incorrect assumption.

Go figger?
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
What an interesting response.

I did not say (or even imply) what I did, but somehow you felt the need to assume (and incorrectly at that) and comment.

And then claimed not to care, but cared enough to make the comment based on an incorrect assumption.

Go figger?
Why did you "figure" it necessary to come in the automotive topic forum just to start an argument??
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Old 01-02-2010, 7:24 AM
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Why did you "figure" it necessary to come in the automotive topic forum just to start an argument??
I didn't.

You said something was "The best way".

I just stated my opinion.

You seem to have taken my questioning your statement of fact very personally and started the off-topic argument,

Have a good day,
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Old 02-19-2010, 4:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPSCS View Post
I don't see how this method would ever completely remove all the old oil, and especially all the crap that settles in the bottom of the pan. For a total thorough removal of old oil and sludge, you need to drain it. Make sure it's hot too.
If you actually have cr@p settling to the bottom of the oil pan, you've already got bigger problems to worry about.

As for getting all of the old oil out, the correct answer is "it depends". It depends on the engine and whether the car is parked on a level surface or not. I purposely point my car facing slightly downhill so all the oil collects closest to the dipstick tube in front. The oil cooler assembly under the oil filter also hides some oil so I take the time to suck that out too. It makes the oil change take a little longer but it does a good job of getting the old oil out.

I gauge how well I got the old oil out by knowing the oil capacity and noting how much new oil I have to put in afterward to bring it to the full mark.
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