Local Cable Assistance

[stevenjamesfrank]

Hi all,

Per my previous thread about some RG-8X that I want to terminate with two PL259 connectors, I've found a variety of sources on how to do the termination, thanks to all who responded constructively.

Having looked into it, as well as considering the issues if the terminations aren't done correctly, I'd like to see if there is anyone local (SE Wisconsin) that would be will to help out with the terminations.

I've taken a look at the run (it's a 2-story house) and I think my only option is to terminate one end, do the run, then terminate the other end.

Is anyone willing/able to help, I'm happy to compensate for time and expertise.

Thanks!

[benbenrf]

Steven

I have found online an article that deals specificly with connecting PL259's to RG-8X - take a look at it, should provide you with the guidance you need to try tackle the job yourself.

http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF


Good luck

[stevenjamesfrank]

I appreciate that Ben and at this point I'm going to have to try and put my very remedial skills (the real problem here) to the test.

[benbenrf]

Steven

Some practical tips here:

- it is absolutely essential that you "tin" the reducer before you insert the coax, never mind trying to also solder the braid to the reducer - thats a separate step. if you attempt to tin the reducer (i.e. apply a thin coating of solder to it) after the coax has been cut back and inserted, you are likely to raise the temp of the reducer so much that it is going to melt the coax inner sheath and damage it.

- tin the reducer with no coax inserted, let it cool down, then proceed.

You want to impart as much heat as quickly as possible to the surface of the reducer - ideally before it has time to function as a heatsink and suck up and distribute the heat. This means using a soldering iron at a high temp and with as large a tip as is practical (a spade shape tip, or one with a large surface area will be preferable to using a point type tip - give the soldering iron 3min - 5min to heat up good, then place the tip flat against the reducer.

- warm the reducer up for around 4secs - 6secs then (and not before) apply the solder wire. So long as the reducer is now nice and hot the solder will quickly melt and flow around the outer diameter of the reducer. As soon as this takes place withdraw the soldering iron tip away from the reducer and give the reducer a few minute to cool.

When it comes to soldering the coax outer braid to the reducer, get the iron hot and apply solder to it so that it melts, then apply it to the braid and reducer. So long as your iron is hot it should flow quickly into the solder that you had already applied to the reducer as described above. As soon as the solder on the reducer melts into the solder on the iron and braid withdraw the iron and allow things to cool for a few minutes.

It's important you prevent parts from moving while they cool down else you run the risk of creating what we call in the trade a "dry joint" - a solder joint that has cracked due to movement while cooling - which is as good as no solder in most cases.

Fair chance you're going to make a hash of it a first few times - no prob's, just cut a couple inches off the coax and start again - it''ll all come right after 3 or 4 attempts or so, and then you'll wonder what all the worry was about.

Good luck

[stevenjamesfrank]

Thanks again, I'll give it a whirl!

[stevenjamesfrank]

One more thing... My soldering iron is old and very probably a piece of crap. Any suggestions on getting something 'real'?

[W2NJS]

Six quick points, just for reference:

1. The RG-8X is the same size as RG-59, the common TV cable.
2. The exact number of the screw-in reducer used on the PL-259 is UG-176. (UG-175 is the reducer for RG-58 cable.)
3. The easiest way to trim the shield braid before soldering is to use a small, sharp cuticle scissors.
4. I've always used a 60/100 watt Wen soldering gun for connector work with no problems.
5. Diagrams for cable cutting dimensions can be found online and make life much simpler.
6. A small vise mounted on the bench also makes life simpler. Clamp the connector in the vise.

[stevenjamesfrank]

Thank you too!

[benbenrf]

Originally Posted by stevenjamesfrank

One more thing... My soldering iron is old and very probably a piece of crap. Any suggestions on getting something 'real'?

Yer - something cheap and cheerful, I have always been happy with a max of 40watts - get one that has a tip like a flat head screwdriver so you have a large flat surface area which can dump heat quickly to the reducer as I described earlier.

Steven, here is a begginer tip: its always a bastard trying to solder braid around the circumference of a reducer - as you move the soldering iron around the reducer the braid tends to spring back off the reducer before the solder has had a chance to solidify. To resolve this problem (after you have tinned the reducer of course and its solidified): tie the braid down over the tinned reducer with a one or 2 pieces of copper wire strand stripped from a piece of multi-strand - its a great help and I still do it this way after 40yrs when working on certain connector types.

.... and as W2NJS said, a small bench top vice (or anything really - plumbers pliers could do) to hold things still while you are soldering is a must else you will be chasing coax connector parts all over the table top!

Good Luck buddy.

[cabletech]

Thank god for crimpon's. makes life sooo much easier. And I have used them for years and never had any problems.

w2njs RG8X is much closer to the size of RG6 instead of RG58

[W2NJS]

Originally Posted by cabletech

Thank god for crimpon's. makes life sooo much easier. And I have used them for years and never had any problems.

w2njs RG8X is much closer to the size of RG6 instead of RG58

Re-read what I wrote. I said that RG8X is the same size as RG59, that's all.
The RG58 reducer is the UG175. The RG59 and RG8X reducer is the UG176.
Now, go back and re-read what I wrote.

[Clublajojo]

Tell us how RG8 and RG59 are the same.I think there is a lot of differance.

[jeatock]

Originally Posted by Clublajojo

Tell us how RG8 and RG59 are the same.I think there is a lot of differance.

This is one of the best pages I've seen on the various types of coax:

Ham Radio Coaxial Cable Power Handling and Loss Specifications - Velocity Factors of Feedlines The page talks about transmitters, but remember that gain and loss work the same for any signal, transmit or receive. Nearly all of the equipment we use is 50 ohm- 75 ohm coax will create a mis-matched system that will work, but do so very poorly!

It's all about acceptable loss vs. cost. Use the best your budget can stand. Just remember that every 3db of loss (or gain) halves (or doubles) the amount of signal running through the system. A +3db gain antenna connected to a -3db coax run nets you a net 0db system. A +6db antenna on the same -3db coax would net you a +3db overall gain.

Personnaly, I seldom use anything smaller than LMR-400, but I can cheat because I'm also an installer and buy it by the 1000 ft reel. Also, I prefer N-connectors over PL's- they're easy to put on (IF you have the tools) and stay dry in the rain. Water is not your friend, even for receivers. For towers and repeaters, I have never used anything smaller than LDF5, and have never regretted it.

[W2NJS]

Originally Posted by Clublajojo

Tell us how RG8 and RG59 are the same.I think there is a lot of differance.

I give up. If you can't understand what I wrote and how it was intended than that's your problem, not mine. Go back
and carefully read what I wrote.