Radio Shack Multimeter Question

[Ensnared]

Recently, I purchased a RS Multimeter Cat. No. 22-109. I bought this to test batteries, but I believe I am beyond my level of understanding. No, I don't know much about electrical topics.

Here is the owner's manual: http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/u...0109_PM_EN.pdf

Question: I am wanting to test 1.2V Sanyo Eneloops; however, I can only find a 1.5V setting. I have looked through this document, but cannot figure this out. I would appreciate some help. If I bought a measuring device beyond the scope of my understanding, I might try to find another model.

[aggie72]

Unfortunately this meter only checks 9V and 1.5V batteries. You could set the dial to 10 DCV which is the max scale voltage and connect the battery (red to positive) and it should read 1.2 volts on that scale.

[Ensnared]

Originally Posted by aggie72

Unfortunately this meter only checks 9V and 1.5V batteries. You could set the dial to 10 DCV which is the max scale voltage and connect the battery (red to positive) and it should read 1.2 volts on that scale.

Thanks for the information.

So, on the "Batt" AC V red scale, I would use the actual needle reading while ignoring the "bad" & "good" ranges listed below? I am assuming the "good" and "bad" ranges are referring to 1.5V and 9V settings, right?

[KevinC]

Originally Posted by Ensnared

Thanks for the information.

So, on the "Batt" AC V red scale, I would use the actual needle reading while ignoring the "bad" & "good" ranges listed below? I am assuming the "good" and "bad" ranges are referring to 1.5V and 9V settings, right?

Most "battery testing" functions apply a load during a test, testing the static voltage of a battery with no load is almost useless. So just using the voltmeter function really won't tell you much.

I personally would suggest investing in a charger\analyzer like the Maha linked below...

Amazon.com: PowerEx MH-C9000 WizardOne Charger-Analyzer: Electronics

But, that's just me.

[wtp]

you are really new
to measure the voltage set it to 10 volts dc
the needle will bearly move between the 1 and 2
that is the voltage without a load
you want to measure batteries on a small load
that is what the battery setting is for
you could use the 1.5 battery setting but it will be a little low
if you get used to it you could use it
by the way the cheapest battery checker is a flashlight bulb and paperclip

[Ensnared]

Sometimes, wisdom comes from knowing your limitations & staying within the boundaries. Hence, I bought a Enercell 9 Range Battery Tester at RS. It is small & simple. At least it gives a visual gauge of my hydride battery charges.

I've noticed that the recharge reading diminishes with time, as expected. My newer Eneloops (1900 mah) show a higher charge than the older ones (Imedion 2400 mah). I don't know if this has anything to do with the mah levels or not.

Thanks for the help.

[Halfpint]

After *many* years of searching for and using battery testers I've settled on the ones from ZTS, inc at:

ztsinc.com

If all you are dealing with are NiMh, alkaline, Lithium batteries the MINI-MBT is probably what should `fill the bill' for you. I have one of each model that I use quite frequently.

I bought the one for testing Lead/Acid batteries because here on our farm we have quite a few assorted vehicles and machines that use 6VDC, 8VDC, and 12VDC Lead/Acid batteries and keeping on top of them and not having to buy new ones all the time because all one may need is just a good recycling but not actually knowing so can get *awfully expensive* without having a tester that can tell you that.

The other testers and their uses are pretty much self-explanitory. The bigger MBT is a great all-round tester but, at times too big to easily use up on a ladder or in a tight spot. The 2 `mini' MBTs help handle pretty much most of what the big one does but do so in the aforementioned `tight spots'.

Their service and delivery time is fantastic.

[hertzian]

Originally Posted by Ensnared

I've noticed that the recharge reading diminishes with time, as expected. My newer Eneloops (1900 mah) show a higher charge than the older ones (Imedion 2400 mah). I don't know if this has anything to do with the mah levels or not.

Unfortunately a simplistic voltage measurement even under load conditions does not give the whole story. Your Imedions may in fact be more fully charged than the Eneloops despite what the meter says.

Eneloops are designed to have a higher voltage under load than most other batteries, hence they operate better under high-drain devices like cameras that are picky about the voltage.

Imedions on the other hand, while providing about 300mah more usable capacity than an Eneloop, run at a slightly lower voltage during the run. This lower voltage during the run is not really a major issue for low-drain devices like our scanners.

Therefore, given that both batteries are fully charged and in good shape, your battery tester just doesn't take into account the manufacturing differences between the two brands. I run Eneloops and Imedions myself for various things as well.

Like Kevin says, if you want to know the truth, you'll want to invest in a battery charger/analyzer.

The ZTS test is good and a bit more accurate. However, the resolution of only 5 or 6 led's makes it a bit less desirable when wanting to match cell capacities. It's better than nothing, but again, an analyzer will get you nearer the truth. That test comes from a DIScharge from full measurement, and not what it takes to charge them up.

[rafdav]

A battery tester is your best bet. Here's a good link that was recently started by Bear780ks about the ZTS brand:

Battery Tester Question ?

A multimeter only gives one answer, that being what is the voltage in the battery/cell at that time. This reading doesn't give you how durable that voltage is.

[Ensnared]

Yeah, I decided to break down & buy one from RS. It is a decent battery tester. One day, I'm going to buy a meter to check continuity on my scanner antenna, but not now.

[W2PMX]

The meter you originally bought will test continuity (and shorts) - on the ohms range (the Greek Omega). Zero ohms, or close to it, is continuity. Any reading but infinity between the center conductor and ground (unless the antenna is supposed to have a DC short - it depends on the design of the antenna) is considered a short, although a high resistance won't bother the signal much, it's just an indication that there's something wrong.