Orion Help

Muxlow · #1 (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 11:10 PM

Hey guys
Iv had this front mount orion for a long time and lent it to a friend
and somehow it got messed up.
Iv been trying to figure out why it wont pwoer up. Iv got another orion
thats the same just a remote mount and iv taken off the power supply
and switched it. They both power supplys are fine, as well as a board
that is screwed on with about 9 screws holind a metal plate over it,
that works too. But what ever this board is i think is the problem. It
is the board that connects to the power supply.. not sure what its
called or anything but it's the board that has a little spot for a
aegis board to go into it aswell.. hat seems to be the problem. Its the
only thing that didnt work in the other radio.

Any ideas what could be blown? Iv got a low band radio for parts so if
someone could give me an idea or a walk tru on things to check that
would be awsome. The local macom dealer dont want to deal with private
people.. plus they charge 60 bucks a hour to look at the radio.. plus
more for parts and their work they do.. i dont want to spend alot. iv
done that before and it was a simple 15 min fix

JungleJim · #2 (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 7:39 AM

That board you suspect is the IF/Audio/Logic board and there are a few things to check. First there is a small slide switch on the back right corner of the board (as viewed from the front of the radio) labeled SW601. This is the ignition sense switch and if it is set to the rear (2-3) the radio will come on with the battery connection applied. If it is set forward (1-2) it will need +12 volts applied to the ignition lead to power up.

Next is the fuse F601 mounted at the rear of the board just behind the big blue power on relay. It is a 5 amp fuse. If it is blown (no continuity) the overvoltage diode may have been popped. CD606 is a 22V zener diode which will short out if the battery voltage exceeds 22V and then pop the fuse. On the older boards it is on the bottom of the board in the area under the ignition sense switch.

Sometimes the radio may lose its flash code and you may need to recover the radio with radio maintenance to force new code in.

ElroyJetson · #3 (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 12:46 PM

As a matter of interest, M/A-Com's policy is that all of their dealers are expected to treat ALL customers properly, even if they're private citizens like you and me. I had an issue with my local dealer being less than eager to order parts for me, and a call to M/A-Com's customer service line apparently helped. The local dealer is now much easier to deal with
as long as I have a clear idea of what it is that I need. So I research all part numbers
and other data myself.

I don't take radios to them to fix, as that's expensive and I can do that myself, but at least
their attitude has been readjusted and they are willing to deal with me so I know that
I COULD if I needed to.

If you do end up sending your radio in for service with the local shop, ensure that the
radio does not have any local trunking data in it. That would raise eyebrows and may
cause questions to be asked. Stuff only conventional test personalities into it. If you
can, that is.

I do have spare IF boards in unknown condition. If you need a fuse or any other given
part, or a pre-tested board (possibly not in the correct band but still usable for parts)
then let me know.

I recently learned that 800 and 900 MHz IF boards look identical. So I've got some
good tested spares for 900 radios. They could yield some good parts to fix an 800 board.

Elroy

Muxlow · #4 (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 4:43 PM

I switched the switch and tried to put power to the yellow wire, and i can hear the board tick when i touch the yellow wire to power, but when i go to turn the raio on nothign still. And when the switch is set to 2-3 nothing happens.
F601 seems to get power thru it on a meter at 1k and x10 ohm.

And i cant seem to find the CD606. Looked for a while and nothing. Its like a whares waldo book.
The radio is a 403-440mhz.. I think its either a 40 or 100 watt cant remember.
Last thing, I do belive there was some things programmed in it for RX only that the local dealer wouldnt like to see, But i dont know how to erase the radio since it wont power up

Oh one more thing. What the SW701 switch do?

flecom · #5 (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 4:47 PM

if you hear the relay clicking then it should be powering up, does the head do anything at all? nothing on the display? no backlit keys? make sure the flex going between the logic board and head is inserted properly

Muxlow · #6 (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 7:52 PM

Its a remote mount i keep trying every thign on. It works with my other radio but not with the one im trying to fix.
And now for some reason it wont work with either.. the system head that is

JungleJim · #7 (**permalink**) 10-12-2007, 8:53 AM

SW701 doesn't do anything. You can also try to hook up the head as a front mount for trouble shooting. Take the front cap off the radio and the back off of the head and the flex ribbon from the display board will plug directly into the plug on the logic board. This will eliminate the control cable and flex cable through the PA (they do fail).

Have you tried to program it? If the radio is set as a single head radio in network options but you connect it to a head with a control unit B id the radio will ignore the head and nothing will be displayed, sometimes you'll get a net fail.

If the power on relay is working and the control cable and head are good but the radio won't program try a recovery to dump good flash code into the radio. If this fails you're looking at some in depth troubleshooting and most likely a new board.

edmscan · #8 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 1:05 PM

I had the same problem with my Orion 800 MHz .. it is fried as the fuse blew and I couldnt get it repaired.

So this is the question ... with the price of the board being many hundreds of dollars (800 I think) .. it just isnt worth it.

Can I use a 900 MHz IF/Audio/Logic board Orion board in an 800 MHz Orion .. ? I somehow doubt it but you never know as well 900 MHz gear is always cheaper.

The Orion is fine .. i just need to replace this board.

Any input is appreciated as to how I can get this working again. I did blow the fuse .. and I guess reading this maybe the diode as well as I couldnt get it to work when I tried to fix the fuse issue. The board I have is wrecked when the fuse broke and pulled the tracing off the board.

I think i have the same problem as the original poster ....

JungleJim · #9 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 3:11 PM

you can fix the blown fuse by removing the diode CD606 if it is shorted. You just won't have your overvoltage protection. You can use a Hitachi HZF22 diode as a substitute for very little money.

The overvoltage is most often a product from either jumpstarting a vehicle (either you jump another car or vice versa) or using a battery charger on the vehicle. Before you attempt to jump or put a rapid charge on your car battery it is good practice to always remove the fuses to all your radios.

I have also seen the audio power amp short and cause the fuse to blow

The 800 and 900 logic boards are different although I'm sure what all is different. I'm fairly sure they have different IF frequencies.

TEKurtz · #10 (**permalink**) 10-21-2012, 3:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JungleJim

.....Next is the fuse F601 mounted at the rear of the board just behind the big blue power on relay. It is a 5 amp fuse. If it is blown (no continuity) the overvoltage diode may have been popped. CD606 is a 22V zener diode which will short out if the battery voltage exceeds 22V and then pop the fuse.

I know this thread is ancient but, F-ing Thank You!