Scanner Antenna

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rustymac01

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I am about to install a Scanner Antenna in my Attic. Does an indoor antenna need to be grounded the same as an outdoor antenna?
 

lep

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Not a simple question. One reason for grounding is because of lightning strikes, not likely on an indoor antenna. But a second reason is to provide a counterpoise against which signals are received. That is, in some antenna designs part of the antenna is in the air an part is in the ground.

If it is convenient to do, won't hurt to provide ground and Might help
 

popnokick

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If you use this antenna it does not require a counterpoise ground. Either version shown in this RR Antenna Wiki article will work, but it is simple and cheap to try the hookup / bell wire version first then "graduate" to the copper pipe version if you like:
http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Homebrewed_Off-Center_Fed_Dipole
 
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K5MPH

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rustymac01 said:
I am about to install a Scanner Antenna in my Attic. Does an indoor antenna need to be grounded the same as an outdoor antenna?

I have one in my attic and it's not grounded and works great, but if you want ground it if it's not a problem.....
 

Blackink

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So static electricity doesn't build up in the coax if the antenna is mounted/placed inside a structure compared to placing/mounting it outside?
I've read many posts in these forums suggesting a ground block/grounding wire should be installed due to static electricity build up in the coax.

I'm curious to know the answer.....
 

AC2OY

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So static electricity doesn't build up in the coax if the antenna is mounted/placed inside a structure compared to placing/mounting it outside?
I've read many posts in these forums suggesting a ground block/grounding wire should be installed due to static electricity build up in the coax.

I'm curious to know the answer.....

From what your saying that is why you put a copper pipe into the ground outside 8' down? Great explanation thank you!! We don't want and static electricity build up in the coax!!
 

WA0CBW

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The NEC (National Electrical Code) requires that the shield (braid) of ALL coax entering your house to be grounded. This is conveniently done using a grounding block connected to your main electrical ground or if more than 20 feet away from the main electrical ground a ground rod driven in the ground. In either case all grounds (and ground rods) need to be connected to the main electrical ground. See section 810 of the National Electrical Code.
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AC2OY

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The NEC (National Electrical Code) requires that the shield (braid) of ALL coax entering your house to be grounded. This is conveniently done using a grounding block connected to your main electrical ground or if more than 20 feet away from the main electrical ground a ground rod driven in the ground. In either case all grounds (and ground rods) need to be connected to the main electrical ground. See section 810 of the National Electrical Code.
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Ok if I understand you right your talking about the main grounding rod that your service is connected to? Mine is a water pipe next to my electrical box in my basement. If you can't tie into that one then you have to do the copper rod with copper wire clamped to it and to the antenna system?
 

WA0CBW

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There should be a ground rod for your main electrical service (although I have seen many houses that don't have one). The copper water pipe is also connected to the main electrical service ground. ALL of those grounds (including any ground rods) need to be connected together. That is probably why you are getting the voltage difference. If each ground isn't at the same potential then there will be a voltage difference between them. You prevent this by connecting them all together thus creating a single point ground (reference). I would suggest using nothing smaller than #6 wire. If you house doesn't have an external ground rod connected to your main entrance panel I would highly recommend you have one installed. You could probably get by without one until you start adding outside antennas. Then it becomes a must.
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