Discriminator Tap

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ka3jjz

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Look in the Wiki under 'Special Topics' then 'Modifications'

To get to it, simply look at the top dark blue toolbar on the right; you will see 'database', 'Forums' then 'wiki' Each of those is a link to a different part of the site

73s Mike
 
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ka3jjz said:
Look in the Wiki under 'Special Topics' then 'Modifications'

To get to it, simply look at the top dark blue toolbar on the right; you will see 'database', 'Forums' then 'wiki' Each of those is a link to a different part of the site

73s Mike

Ya, I have a great hot-to with up close pictures, just worried about my soldering skills.

link to site http://www.naturalgfx.com/pro97_discriminator.htm
 

mtindor

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WisconsinRailfan said:
Ya, I have a great hot-to with up close pictures, just worried about my soldering skills.

link to site http://www.naturalgfx.com/pro97_discriminator.htm

I sure wish I lived a little closer, I'd do it for you. Judging from the responses, you're either expected to RTFM (read the #*%* manual) or nobody wants to step up because they don't want to be responsible for your scanner suddenly not working properly after they tap it for you. Given the scanners that can be had for cheap out there, by another cheap one that covers the frequency range you want to use the tapped scanner on and attempt the mod on that one - of course some scanners are more easily modified than others. But it doesn't have to be another PRO-97.

I'd hate to suggest that you take it somewhere, but maybe stop in over at Fred Osterman's place - what the hell is that called.. Oh, Universal Radio, if it's still over in Americana Circle. Somebody there might be willing to do it (and will probably charge you $50 bucks or something like that to do it).

As you can see, the above option may be doable - but given the potential cost of having a radio shop do it, it might be better to just buy a second one and attempt it yourself.

I will say this - given how easy it is to get to TP4 on the Pro97, there is more room for 'shoddy soldering' - meaning that you won't have to be _quite_ as cautious about, for instance, having a piece of hot solder drop on a space between two traces and suddenly make them one - or solder two pins of an IC together accidentally. That's a bummer when that happens.

You should go out and get the preliminary stuff - a resister of proper value (and proper value is hard to determine, everybody has an opinion - slicerwizard and unitrunker's suggestions for resistor values are the ones I would tend to use. Get the standard phono jack - get a drill and drill a hole somewhere in the case for the jack, etc. Maybe after you do the easier things and the only thing left to do is solder up the items, you may feel more comfortable/have more confidence in doing the job yourself.

Assuming you have a soldering iron, solder, perhaps some flux (not the flux you use on your plumbing), and can gather all the needed parts, I believe you can do it - and you'll get the warm fuzzies after you've done it successfully :)

Mike
 

ka3jjz

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There are 3 places I know of documented in the Wiki that do mods. It's entirely possible there are more - I think - I can't say this with any certainty - that gentleman that sells 2 level interfaces also does mods from time to time. His site should be listed on the Data Slicers wiki

73s Mike

[edit] Found it - I'll add this to the wiki...

http://www.dataslicers.com/tapservice.htm
 
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fireSAR said:
I'm in Pickerington, did you get it soldered yet?

Not yet, I am getting the parts tonight, it was suggested to get a 10k ohm 1/4 watt resistor, and part number 274-249 from ratshack. I have a soldering iron, wire from a CAT5 cable. I have solder stuff before, but a little worried, as suggested, I accept full responsibility if you can help me, if it fries, and something happens, I WILL NOT HOLD ANYONE but myself responsible! PM with a time, that is good for you, if you are still able to help me out.

Thanks again for your reply
 
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Pro97 Tap Update

I did it.. I did it.... :) So I spent the weekend with some old circuit boards, misc parts that I de-soldered from blown radio equip, some solder, and just decided to "just do it". I soldered the parts according to the directions, I even drilled a hole in the side of the scanner. I have tested it with Unitrunker, it seems to be working, However it goes from decoding to no signal.
I used the uni-scope and set the input according to the read me, not sure if it's a bad connection or something else. any ideas or other programs to use? Thanks to fireSAR for the offer to help me, but also the last PM gave me confidence to just do it. Thanks again for all the information, this is why RR is the best on the web..

Steven
 

mtindor

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WisconsinRailfan said:
I did it.. I did it.... :) So I spent the weekend with some old circuit boards, misc parts that I de-soldered from blown radio equip, some solder, and just decided to "just do it". I soldered the parts according to the directions, I even drilled a hole in the side of the scanner. I have tested it with Unitrunker, it seems to be working, However it goes from decoding to no signal.
I used the uni-scope and set the input according to the read me, not sure if it's a bad connection or something else. any ideas or other programs to use? Thanks to fireSAR for the offer to help me, but also the last PM gave me confidence to just do it. Thanks again for all the information, this is why RR is the best on the web..

Steven

That's great Steven. Glad you bit the bullet. When you do see it decoding, are you getting good decode rates? On a decent signal you should see 95-100% decode rates. When it goes to 'no signal', is there any chance that you have it scanning at the time? You probably know this, but in case you don't - you need to keep it on the active CC. Otherwise, if you're getting intermittent decoding and then no-signal, it coudl be a cold solder joint / bad connection somewhere in the tap.

Try firing up Unitrunker and sitting on an active control channel, and then use something nonmetallic to touch the varies areas along the wiring, etc. and see if you can isolate where it is going afoul, if it is.

Perhaps it's just a matter of maybe monitoring a weak signal too.

Provide as much info as possible and I'm sure we'll all try to help. Hey, I'm excited for you - almost as good as when I tap one successfully myself. It really is a lot of fun watching what is going on via Unitrunker.

Mike
 
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Ok heres the deal, I don't have it set to scan,, when there is no sound i see this (pic one), then when the channel becomes active I see this (pic two) Should I post a new thread? to get help?

nosoundpi5.jpg


soundba6.jpg
 

mtindor

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Actually, those screenshots look like they have teo be backwards. The only time you would see 97% up top and all of the frequencies is when there is sound (i.e. when you are sitting on the control channel).

Under your "Listen" options, make sure you set Listen to no unless you have a second scanner hooked up.

Otherwise, if you have one scanner hooked up and you set Listen to ON, then it is going to switch to the audio channel when a voice channel becomes active. And, when it switches to the audio channel so that you can hear the audio, it is no longer sitting on the Cc and thus no longer able to get the data - thus you lose the signal in unitrunker.

When they stop talking, Unitrunker switches back to the control channel and you start seeing data again.

So, if you are wanting Unitrunker to monitor the system constantly, don't switch it off of the control channel and turn Listen OFF. It's boring in the sense that you don't get to hear conversations, but unless you have two scanners you can't adequately 24/7 monitor the trunked system without sitting on the control channel.

Mike
 

kd5dga

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Unitrunker will stop under EDACS if the discriminator output is interupted by a call the radio picks up.
 
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