Mobile Console / Setup 2.0

paramedszaf · #1 (**permalink**) 07-28-2009, 11:57 AM

Work done on the build. Contains a CDM-1550 VHF, CDM-1250 UHF a BCT15 and BCD996t.

Will be installed in my 06' Silverado, removed the middle seat and will fit perfectly. Looking for suggestions on how to properly secure it. As you can see it is hinged for easy access to the back of the equipment.

Will have additional pics during install, will be working on it tonight at work...

Any tips, hints or suggestions are welcomed.

paramedszaf · #2 (**permalink**) 07-28-2009, 11:58 AM

More pics of completed work...

SouthSideScannerGuy · #3 (**permalink**) 07-28-2009, 01:42 PM

Wow, I like it. Can't wait to see the finished project.

SSSG

Rob_K · #4 (**permalink**) 07-28-2009, 05:07 PM

I like it too.

Have you thought about putting carpet on it or painting it to match the interior of your vehicle? You can't go wrong with black! Home Depot sells some great carpet for things like this.

-Rob

K9JRF · #5 (**permalink**) 07-28-2009, 11:18 PM

Looks good, waiting to see the finished product...

mr_tunz · #6 (**permalink**) 07-29-2009, 07:17 AM

I bult one a couple years ago similar to this and I covered in formica. Worked great and didnt look to bad either. Just a thought. When you took the middle seat out was it bolted to the floor or the other seats?? If it was too the floor you could use the seat hold downs or run bolts through ur floor and nut the under side.

paramedszaf · #7 (**permalink**) 07-29-2009, 10:50 AM

I will snap some pics of the center seat. I had to remove both front seats then lift out the center seat and then secure the two front seats again. Few other mods I am working on.

a) Need to made cup holders (for coffee of course)
b) Thinking about stacking the radios closer together for viewing ease, the top radio is kind of at a funky angle for viewing.
c) Good securing of the console, I am thinking of wire "strapping" under both seats and securing to that bottom section where the buss panels are secured.

Ran the hot and ground last night at work. 10ga, 30A fused at connection. Didn't fuse the ground under the hood but as you can see the buss block is fused + and - so I should be ok there. Attacking the antennas tonight, 2 lip mounts (VHF/UHF) AND I DON'T WANT TO HEAR THE "DRILL IT" SPEECH. It's a lease and I have to be careful what I do. I have a cheapie scanner antenna that I am going to magnet mount to my toolbox to get me started. Need to split the connection into 2 (maybe 3 if I add another BCT15) might jut goto Radio Shack and but one of those signal booster / splitters..

Will there be an issue if run the 3 antenna feeds through the same hole and enclose them in the same loom? Interference and so on?

mr_tunz · #8 (**permalink**) 07-29-2009, 11:34 AM

You should still fuse the conection at the battery. If you're wire would get pinched you may not blow the fuse on the blocks. Its a saftey thing. You need to fuse as close to the battery as possiable otherwise if something would happen you have live power shorting directly out to our body. Tends to burn trucks up in a hurry. If you dont want a fuse put a resettable breaker in there. Any parts store should have one.

Also just thinking ur 10 gauge wire might not be heavy enough. The Moto radio came with fuse correct?? If they did you need to add all the fuse together (example 30 amp fuse x 2 radios= 60 amp of capable draw) so you need to be able to produce at least that. Also the heaver the wire the easier elctrons flow makeing less heat in the wire causeing less problems.
IN MY BOOK BIGGER FOR WIREING IS ALWAYS BETTER. Also make easier if you decide to upgrade to bigger or more radios. Hope this helps.

Any question's just ask. Also please dont hold the spelling against me.

\

paramedszaf · #9 (**permalink**) 07-29-2009, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_tunz

You should still fuse the conection at the battery. If you're wire would get pinched you may not blow the fuse on the blocks. Its a saftey thing. You need to fuse as close to the battery as possiable otherwise if something would happen you have live power shorting directly out to our body. Tends to burn trucks up in a hurry. If you dont want a fuse put a resettable breaker in there. Any parts store should have one.

It is fused 30A at the battery connection.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_tunz

Also just thinking ur 10 gauge wire might not be heavy enough. The Moto radio came with fuse correct?? If they did you need to add all the fuse together (example 30 amp fuse x 2 radios= 60 amp of capable draw) so you need to be able to produce at least that. Also the heaver the wire the easier elctrons flow makeing less heat in the wire causeing less problems.
IN MY BOOK BIGGER FOR WIREING IS ALWAYS BETTER. Also make easier if you decide to upgrade to bigger or more radios. Hope this helps.

Any question's just ask. Also please dont hold the spelling against me.

The original Morotola supplied wire is 12ga with a 15A fuse, if I am not transmitting they are not drawing that much current let alone the max 15A correct?

Also I won't be transmitting 2 radios at a time to limit the draw. The scanners are fused 2A each..

What gague wire do you suggest and how do you suggest to connect them to those buss blocks?

Anyone else want to jump in with their $0.02 please feel free.

More pics a little later!

W8OSP · #10 (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 09:51 AM

Also I would add a small switch or two and add a couple cpu fans to the front and on the rear of the box. You do not really want those to over heat. Just cut a couple holes and mount the fans, run to a switched power feed and your golden. Also I need to add make the fans a push - pull design.

paramedszaf · #11 (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by W8OSP

Also I would add a small switch or two and add a couple cpu fans to the front and on the rear of the box. You do not really want those to over heat. Just cut a couple holes and mount the fans, run to a switched power feed and your golden. Also I need to add make the fans a push - pull design.

Yes I did plan on adding several switches (probably a switch box to be honest). And I already have some harvested CPU fans from a computer store. They draw minimal amps so they could probably run off of one connection (+ and -) right?

I am looking on deleting the dead space between the radios and move them close together for ease of viewing so I have to map that all out. And probably when it's all said and done I'll have to replace that top piece of wood to make it look nice....

Working on 4 or 6 gauge wire, not easy to find around here have to find a descent place on the internet... Even if I could find the wire around here, the connectors I would need for the battery and buss block are impossible to find around here...

Work in progress continues...

snikliw87 · #12 (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 07:34 PM

+1 on the fans idea.

Wire them + to - with a switch. You could also get like a potentiometer to turn the fan speed higher or lower depending on how many radios you are using at one time... Keep the intake and exhaust equal to balance out the pressure (just like a computer case).

Maybe wrap the wood in a black cloth and stable on the underside?

For cup holder inserts you can go on eBay on find something on there... hundreds of em.

N1BHH · #13 (**permalink**) 08-02-2009, 10:53 AM

Adding carpet to the box will make for more heat inside the box. Contact paper may be better, something that matches the interior. The fans will do a good job if you mount one on one side and the other on the other side. Lip mount antennas will do okay. I don't like them because I don't like antennas anywhere near the engine and all it's noise generation. Gain antennas will overcome the deficiency that the lower than roof line mounting presents.

Securing the box to the floor you could use angle brackets, drilled into the box and floor, or any available bracket on the floor. Also, tie wraps do work as well. I have seen that before and it does just fine.

I would actually put the radios closer together with just enough room to slip a hand in between and give the base of the box an angle so that the radio at the top is as high as practicable, so as not to block anything like heater controls and such. A friend has a Yukon where he mounted his stuff in a Jotto console box and had it fitted just right, having to cut out some of the excess plastic in the dash which had empty space and gave it a real built in look.

That looks good, so when you finally install it, come back with more pictures.

WatnNY · #14 (**permalink**) 08-02-2009, 11:32 AM

Are you close to getting done yet so we can see the final install?

eddie412 · #15 (**permalink**) 08-02-2009, 06:30 PM

looks really good so far. can't wait to see it finished!

N9JIG · #16 (**permalink**) 08-03-2009, 09:42 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about fans, mobile radios are built to handle the heat they generate, thus the large heat dissipation fins. You will likely find they generate more noise than anything else.

I have a fleet of CDM's in 24/7 service mounted in consoles with no ventilation and there has never been an issue with heat damage to any of the 30 or so. Same goes for my 996 and BC15 scanners.

izzyj4 · #17 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 03:02 PM

Just a question, why did you hinge the console the way you did with the "three side box" sides comming up instead of having the face where the radios are flip up? Was that because of a space / weight issue? Just curious but I do like the design.

paramedszaf · #18 (**permalink**) 08-05-2009, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by izzyj4

Just a question, why did you hinge the console the way you did with the "three side box" sides comming up instead of having the face where the radios are flip up? Was that because of a space / weight issue? Just curious but I do like the design.

Because when I found the hinges in the basement the top was already counter-sink to the sides so to the bottom they went. In all realityI could take that whole bottom part out and just put the buss blocks on the sides...

Also had an epiphany this morning on the way to work.. I am going to bump them a little closer together and pitch/angle views down for better ease of viewing..

emt757 · #19 (**permalink**) 08-05-2009, 11:29 AM

In regards to putting the CPU fans in if you wire them both to a potentiometer you would be able to have the same speed for both of them therefore you would get equal airflow in and also out. I think my only concern without putting in any airflow vents would be the heat that radiates from the floorboards near the transmission hump there. I would just suggest putting in the fans. Great build also!