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2004 Explorer Jotto install for EMS/2M

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Stimpy911

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I am a first time installer. I was given a Motto desk by a police officer friend and after repainting it I am ready to install. I am an EMT and I volunteer on a first responder unit in Michigan. I also have my Tech class ham radio license. I have not been on the radio in years. Now that I have a console I figured I would install my 2M rig. Its an old radio but works for me.

Still working on the switch box.

I am looking for install tips.

How can I remove the 12 V adaptor and direct wire to the battery? Just cut the wires? Should I install some 12 V slots on the console and just plug my radio into that?

I don't want a big long antenna for 2M. What do you suggest?

Best way to route the antenna wire from the roof?

Thanks
 

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03msc

RF is RF
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That will make for a clean install so congrats on that!

A lot of people will run one set of wires from the battery to the inside of the console (Jotto desk, in this case) to a power distribution block. That way, you can add or change out radios fairly easily whenever you want. In that case I'd probably run something like 10 gauge wire from the battery to a power block in the console (out of sight) and then just short leads from the radios or other equipment to the power block. Fuse the lines from the battery, of course.

If you mean the radio had a cig lighter adapter, yes you could just cut it off. Make sure the power lines from the radio are fused as well before connecting them to power, whether you run them all the way to the battery or just to a power block as I described above.

As far as an antenna, if you are just doing 2m then just a quarter wave should work fine for you. Something like: http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-qwb144-719.html (I have no affiliation with this site; just using it as an example)

Keep in mind it is about 18" long and you'd need an NMO mount to put it on, whether that is a mount drilled in your roof or another type mount (magnet mount, lip mount, etc. - check that same site for ideas of mount types - that accepts NMO antennas).

Hope this information helps some?
 

Stimpy911

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Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
91
So I would run a power wire that is fused from the battery to this power block and then wire all of my equipment to the box? I will have a siren and the yaezu radio. I would also have a 4 position switch box that all of my emergency lights will be routed to.
 

KD5BYN

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TX
Wire Guage Sizing

1. Determine the total length of the circuit, (Include return path).
2. Determine the total amperage requirements of the load.
3. Select wire gauge from chart.
4. Include a fuse or circuit breaker close to battery little over total amperage.
So a 10 GA wire at 15 ft. will allow up to 50 amps.

Hope this helps
 

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KD5BYN

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Nice start with the Jotto Desk console. I would like to see your final install when you finish.
 

Stimpy911

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Here is the finished product minus the install. I'm also looking for a faceplate that is made for storage or a faceplate with pop holders.

uploadfromtaptalk1428193023266.jpg
 

Stimpy911

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Here are some updates. Nothing wired up. I was given permission to gut out one of our old crown Vic for a PD I volunteer at so I'll be getting a different switch box and I'm going to pull as much spare wire as I can to help me with my install.

uploadfromtaptalk1429143909431.jpg
 

Stimpy911

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Latest update. I have a different switch box now.

I am not sure I want to drill a hole in my roof for the light bar wiring so for now I have it coming in the passenger door. If I keep it this way what is the best way to route my wires to my console?

I am not sure if I can get a power distribution box to mount inside of my console. If I use one, should I attach my switch box to it or just wire it separate from the radio and siren?

Thanks
 

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SteveC0625

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Should I put the switch box next to siren and radio on top?
You should place the radio where you have the best and easiest line of sight while driving the car. Since it has a display screen, consider bright sunlight conditions, too. Switches and sirens are of secondary importance in this regard as you will learn to operate them in your vehicle partially by touch and position.

Here's the current setup in my POV. Note that the radio head is on the dashboard allowing easy sight while driving. Originally, I had the radio head down where the 7" back up camera monitor is now located. It was too much distraction to look that far down to change channel or other functions in the radio. The GPS and satellite radio are just below the radio head, again for easy sight. The monitor for the back up camera is down low because reverse is low speed, stop and go so it's easy and safe to glance down further.
Radio-GPS-XM-Monitorsm_zps6cfb8580.jpg

The switches are the factory auxiliary package from Ford for the Super Duties, so their placement is fixed.

My truck did not have the factory satellite/nav radio so using the HD JVC radio/cd player and the Garmin GPS and satellite radio controller was the most economical option for me as I already had all of them installed in my previous truck. It kept the purchase price under $50K, but not by much.
 

03msc

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You should place the radio where you have the best and easiest line of sight while driving the car. Since it has a display screen, consider bright sunlight conditions, too. Switches and sirens are of secondary importance in this regard as you will learn to operate them in your vehicle partially by touch and position.

Here's the current setup in my POV. Note that the radio head is on the dashboard allowing easy sight while driving. Originally, I had the radio head down where the 7" back up camera monitor is now located. It was too much distraction to look that far down to change channel or other functions in the radio. The GPS and satellite radio are just below the radio head, again for easy sight. The monitor for the back up camera is down low because reverse is low speed, stop and go so it's easy and safe to glance down further.

The switches are the factory auxiliary package from Ford for the Super Duties, so their placement is fixed.

My truck did not have the factory satellite/nav radio so using the HD JVC radio/cd player and the Garmin GPS and satellite radio controller was the most economical option for me as I already had all of them installed in my previous truck. It kept the purchase price under $50K, but not by much.

While the reason you give - namely, having the radio easily in view leading to maybe it being a little safer while driving - is important, I have seen numerous posts on this forum in various setup threads giving reasons to never dash mount a radio. In short, they usually come down to: 1) radios need to be kept out of the hot sun; 2) radios up on the dash are in plain sight to attract a would-be thief to your vehicle; 3) objects on the dash can become dangerous flying objects when in an accident and seriously injure or kill the driver or other occupants (I realize you may have long bolts into a metal structure inside the dash, I can't tell if that's the case here, but just adding this one to the list in case yours is Velcro'd to the dash or if someone else has that idea...sometimes people think Velcro is fine because it might not slide...but in and accident it'll surely fly.)

I'm not intending to bash your install here, as it all looks nice and neat, but I'm just pointing these out so that the OP, or others who see this, might consider them before choosing top-of-the-dash mounting...
 

SteveC0625

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While the reason you give - namely, having the radio easily in view leading to maybe it being a little safer while driving - is important, I have seen numerous posts on this forum in various setup threads giving reasons to never dash mount a radio. In short, they usually come down to: 1) radios need to be kept out of the hot sun; 2) radios up on the dash are in plain sight to attract a would-be thief to your vehicle; 3) objects on the dash can become dangerous flying objects when in an accident and seriously injure or kill the driver or other occupants (I realize you may have long bolts into a metal structure inside the dash, I can't tell if that's the case here, but just adding this one to the list in case yours is Velcro'd to the dash or if someone else has that idea...sometimes people think Velcro is fine because it might not slide...but in and accident it'll surely fly.)

I'm not intending to bash your install here, as it all looks nice and neat, but I'm just pointing these out so that the OP, or others who see this, might consider them before choosing top-of-the-dash mounting...
All good comments. My install is crash secure and it's only the radio heads up there, not the radios themselves. If I know that some really hot weather is on the way, the head is easily removed with two thumb screws and a single RJ connector. But I'm in the northeast where really hot (a la the south of the US) is a rarity. I keep the truck vented in warm weather and the temp rarely gets warm enough to damage the head.

For the OP, I think he's just looking for optimal placement in the console. My recommendation for best and safest line of sight on the radio display in the console still stands.
 

Stimpy911

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Joined
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Messages
91
That will make for a clean install so congrats on that!

A lot of people will run one set of wires from the battery to the inside of the console (Jotto desk, in this case) to a power distribution block. That way, you can add or change out radios fairly easily whenever you want. In that case I'd probably run something like 10 gauge wire from the battery to a power block in the console (out of sight) and then just short leads from the radios or other equipment to the power block. Fuse the lines from the battery, of course.

If you mean the radio had a cig lighter adapter, yes you could just cut it off. Make sure the power lines from the radio are fused as well before connecting them to power, whether you run them all the way to the battery or just to a power block as I described above.

As far as an antenna, if you are just doing 2m then just a quarter wave should work fine for you. Something like: http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-qwb144-719.html (I have no affiliation with this site; just using it as an example)

Keep in mind it is about 18" long and you'd need an NMO mount to put it on, whether that is a mount drilled in your roof or another type mount (magnet mount, lip mount, etc. - check that same site for ideas of mount types - that accepts NMO antennas).

Hope this information helps some?
I am going to buy a power distribution box and run a fused line from my battery. Where do I hook all the ground wires from my equipment?
 
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look up the brand blue sea. nice fuse block, also has a ground side. you can ground to your frame or run a wire from the - of your battery.
 

Stimpy911

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Feb 28, 2015
Messages
91
Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions. I think I might try to run my light bar cable down the drivers side b pillar. Going to try to use an existing hole under the luggage rack bar or drill the hole near there.

I am going to add a couple heavier duty mag mounts as well. So far no problems with what I have. Since I don't want a permanent mounts, Whelen has suggested I add more magnets to the bar.

My new switch box is a Galls Street Thunder XL300. It is a 6 position switch. The first switch is at 40 amps while the remainder are 20 amps each.

The 40 amp switch will be dedicated to my Whelen Strobe light bar.

Switch 2 will run head light flashers if I use them.
Switch 3 will operate all forward facing lights.
Switch 4 will be for rear facing lights.
Switch 5 will be the take down lights. No need for alley.
Switch 6 I will use for an inside accessory light whenever I find one.

Or something along those lines anyway.

I am having trouble with my siren speaker right now. All of the screws are frozen tight and the mounting bolts broke off. Going to drill new mounting holes but I need to get the screws out to replace the wiring. That is going to be a pain I think.

More to come, stay posted.
 

Stimpy911

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Messages
91
Back to the power distribution block. What do I do with all of my negative wires? Do I soder them all together and run them to the battery or grounding point using one wire?
 
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