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'13 Ram 1500 and a few questions

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treydawgmt

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Hello all,

I have a 2013 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Express (5.7L Hemi) and I am looking to install two radios. I currently own the Anytone AT-5888UV, and will be installing that along with a scanner to be purchased sooner (or later). I will currently buy something that is cheaper (I hope) and even potentially used, with a remote head. My goal is to purchase the Whistler 1095, but that won't happen for at least 6 months or more.

My questions are as follows -

Any ideas for install? My Anytone has a remote head, and I will buy a remote head on the scanner as well. I have the 6 seat cab, so I have the center console that folds up or down as a cup holder. I never have anyone sit up front in the middle seat, but would like to leave that option. I've included two photos. I was thinking about installing the ham radio where I have circled in red, and the scanner either in the green or blue locations. Any ideas or thoughts? Or anywhere else better to put them? I'd really like the green area, but am afraid it would be too far away. Granted, I won't need to touch it too much, and my wife is often in the truck with me, and can operate a scanner pretty well.

I have been told by the dealership that I bought the truck at as well as the dealership that services my truck where I live now, that I must run the power through the fuse box in the engine compartment to maintain my lifetime warranty. Any experience, problems with this? I will likely have this professionally installed by a local company that installs for police and fire departments, so they should understand how to do this, but was wondering if anyone experienced anything doing it this way.

Anyone have any ideas for a cheap, remote head scanner. Looking only to scan things such as 151-155 and 460-470. I'd really like alpha display, but could do without.

Thank's guys for any thoughts!
 

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mmckenna

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Where ever you chose to mount them, you have to be positively sure they are completely and totally out of the way of any air bag deployment. Not sure exactly where they are on that truck.

Under the dash is usually a safe location. I've got a 2011 Ford F150 with a CDM1550 VHF and a NX-900 800MHz radio mounted under there. Not an issue for me, I can reach them just fine and they are well out of the way.

Important part is to use an external speaker. The internal speakers on most of these radios are small enough that they can be hard to hear. Installing a better remote speaker usually improves audio quality by a whole bunch.

As for powering through the under hood fuse box....
I'd find out exactly what they mean. If there are accessory terminals under there, then it's a good choice. If there isn't, it's usually best to come directly off the battery. + lead to the + terminal of the battery, and the - lead to the vehicle ground. Use appropriate fuses as close to the battery as you can.

If you are not comfortable doing the install yourself, then do go with a reputable shop. Should be an easy install for them.
 

rescue161

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Mine is pretty much just like yours and I used a Troy console. I lost access to the under-dash storage compartment, but I never used it anyway. If someone absolutely needed to sit in the middle seat, they could; they'd just have to straddle the console.

I'll snap some pictures later if you want.

I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery, through a 90A solenoid and through the firewall to my own fuse block. The solenoid is triggered with a switched-power fuse from the fuse block under the hood. Since my truck in an automatic, I used the clutch-cable cover to go through the firewall.
 

treydawgmt

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Mine is pretty much just like yours and I used a Troy console. I lost access to the under-dash storage compartment, but I never used it anyway. If someone absolutely needed to sit in the middle seat, they could; they'd just have to straddle the console.

I'll snap some pictures later if you want.

I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery, through a 90A solenoid and through the firewall to my own fuse block. The solenoid is triggered with a switched-power fuse from the fuse block under the hood. Since my truck in an automatic, I used the clutch-cable cover to go through the firewall.
Hey, I'd love some pictures! I have thought of that maybe. The only time I think I'd use that is if the kids both wanted to bring a friend on vacation whenever we buy a camper, which is why we bought a truck. Kids are only 3 and 2 months right now though, so that's off in the distance.

How much are they?

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rescue161

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Do you have AC vents for the rear seats that come out of the center console in the rear? If you do, the mount I used is a royal pain to install. It can be done, but you have to fight with it. Give me a little bit and I'll go snap some pictures.
 

rescue161

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Hump%20Mount_zpsb3wbqdld.jpg


Console%20Passengers%20Side_zpsbb63sw8k.jpg


Console_zpsxyp14ejw.jpg


Fuse%20Block_zpsrouirusm.jpg


Solenoid_zpsiedi6ada.jpg
 

treydawgmt

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Great setup! I probably won't be using the Troy console (holy expensive batman!) and I found one or two quite a bit cheaper. But l like the idea a lot overall

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rescue161

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Thanks man. This is the same setup that we use to install the public safety Ram trucks. They just get a siren and lights and only one radio. Straight forward and easy to install. I have a Jotto Desk console that I used in my 97 Dodge Ram, but it would not fit in my new truck. It is a 9" and the Troy is a 7". You can find them on Ebay some times, but I bought mine through a Troy dealer. I think it was $165 and that was with my choice of face plates. If you shop around, you can find deals.

We install a mixture of Troy, Jotto Desk and Gamber Johnson. I like Troy the best because the mounting rail for the face plates can be changed easily. Once you install and remove a face plate several times, the holes get worn out. On the Jotto Desk, the rails are welded in and the only solution is to keep using bigger and bigger screws until you have to replace the console (or weld in new rails).
 

treydawgmt

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If I could find a rail and console for 165 I would. I'm seeing prices of like 285-350 for the console and 70 for the rail. Can't afford that. I'm going to talk to the public safety install place near me, see what they have.

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rescue161

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On the Gamber Johnson stuff, we install their stalks. They work and look okay, but if you have a lot of equipment, the shake/rattle a lot. They bolt to the passenger seat bolts. They are pretty cheap and do not hinder the use of the storage compartment.

For a single remote radio head, the stalk would probably be your best bet. No holes to drill.
 

Project25_MASTR

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You might look at a used HHCH option for a VHF/UHF option.

I've never actually looked at my father's 14 but I wouldn't run power off the OEM distribution panel as it is often not sized for every specific need/requirement. It's just something you don't commonly see in the industry.

If you can make them fit, Panavise InDash mounts work great for HHCHs but I'm not sure how they would work on full heads.
 

rescue161

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I've never actually looked at my father's 14 but I wouldn't run power off the OEM distribution panel as it is often not sized for every specific need/requirement. It's just something you don't commonly see in the industry.

Exactly. That is why we always use a solenoid to run switched power into the vehicle. The only thing connected to the factory fuse box is the trigger for the solenoid, which draws less than an amp.
 

Project25_MASTR

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Exactly. That is why we always use a solenoid to run switched power into the vehicle. The only thing connected to the factory fuse box is the trigger for the solenoid, which draws less than an amp.

Previous owner of my Sierra had a sub system behind the back seat. He pulled hardware but not the cabling when he traded the thing in. After checking the run (actually was a GM installed system) I ended up tapping RAPS for ignition sense and pulling power off that 4 ga for the remote head setups.
 

treydawgmt

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I bought my truck brand new off the floor 2 years ago, there is nothing to steal from anyone. Like I said, multiple dealerships (including the one that will do all the work on this) have told me to keep my lifetime dealer warranty intact, I must go through the fuse box. I will use resuce161's suggestion, as that will allow me to go through the fuse box, and have enough power as well. Doing it any other way, while potentially a better install, would lose the warranty on a $40,000 vehicle all to get $500 worth of ham radios and scanners to work properly. That would not be a smart move in my mind!
 

Project25_MASTR

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I bought my truck brand new off the floor 2 years ago, there is nothing to steal from anyone. Like I said, multiple dealerships (including the one that will do all the work on this) have told me to keep my lifetime dealer warranty intact, I must go through the fuse box. I will use resuce161's suggestion, as that will allow me to go through the fuse box, and have enough power as well. Doing it any other way, while potentially a better install, would lose the warranty on a $40,000 vehicle all to get $500 worth of ham radios and scanners to work properly. That would not be a smart move in my mind!

Go to a two-way shop that does the installs, and see what they say (they have access to the upfitter's manual which is provided by Chrysler). It sounds like a case of the dealer is trying to take an opportunity to get more money from you but without looking at the upfitter's manual you can't really be sure.

However, per the warranty for a 2013 Ram 1500 (2013 Warranty), installation of aftermarket radio equipment does not void the warranty (no matter how it is ran). Sounds like the dealer is blowing smoke up your rear.
 
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treydawgmt

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Go to a two-way shop that does the installs, and see what they say (they have access to the upfitter's manual which is provided by Chrysler). It sounds like a case of the dealer is trying to take an opportunity to get more money from you but without looking at the upfitter's manual you can't really be sure.

I am going to take it to a shop that does installs, mainly because I don't want to do the work myself. Both dealerships want nothing to do with the install, they just want the power ran through the fuse box under the hood, so as to not void the warranty.
 

Project25_MASTR

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I am going to take it to a shop that does installs, mainly because I don't want to do the work myself. Both dealerships want nothing to do with the install, they just want the power ran through the fuse box under the hood, so as to not void the warranty.

See my revised post. Running through the fusebox is not a term of the warranty.
 
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