Just found my Pro-60!

[pr60user]

I found my pro-60 radio-shack scanner from the mid 90's and got it running. The orange Light won't turn on but it works good other than that. I have to go to amazon to find another wall 9v power supply unit that will fit the 6 AA try is also ripped on a corner but i fixed the contact with some foil

I wanted to know what type of antenna upgrade to increase the range (but that also covers all the bands in receiving) i can get for it. It has the stock BNC rubber duck now. The manual says the circuitry won't allow for charging NIMH which i have in there now so I may just have to find some NiCads somewhere if they even make them...

 

[safetyobc]

I'd recommend the Diamond RH77CA. It's a longer antenna but a good all around antenna IMO.

Diamond RH77CA Amateur HT Antenna

 

[DickH]

I found my pro-60 radio-shack scanner from the mid 90's and got it running. The orange Light won't turn on but it works good other than that. I have to go to amazon to find another wall 9v power supply unit that will fit the 6 AA try is also ripped on a corner but i fixed the contact with some foil

I and many others here recommend to use battery only when running your scanner. Just buy a second set of batteries and a charger and swap them every day.
My PRO-95 was badly damaged by a power surge using the A/C adapter to run it.

 

[pr60user]

Thanks guys.

I am certainly keeping it on a wall surge protector when I get the AC charger.

From what I can see there are two holes. One is for direct AC power 9v 300mah and the other is for charging your batteries inside the scanner. I believe when you put the ac power plug in it, it DOES NOT charge the batteries just bypasses them and goes right to power the scanner.

What about fixing the light? I don't think it's an LED.

 

[westom1]

I am certainly keeping it on a wall surge protector when I get the AC charger.

A plug-in protector may even compromise superior protection already inside electronics. If that needs surge protection, then everything needs that protection. Protector that is actually part of an effective solution is the 'whole house' protector - to even protect the Pro-60.

Same applies to its antenna. If using an outdoor antenna, then the antenna lead must connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to the same single point earth ground before entering. Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. Destructively inside. Or harmlessly outside. Informed homeowners earth one 'whole house' protector for superior protection AND for tens of times less money.

 

[pr60user]

A plug-in protector may even compromise superior protection already inside electronics. If that needs surge protection, then everything needs that protection. Protector that is actually part of an effective solution is the 'whole house' protector - to even protect the Pro-60.

Same applies to its antenna. If using an outdoor antenna, then the antenna lead must connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to the same single point earth ground before entering. Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. Destructively inside. Or harmlessly outside. Informed homeowners earth one 'whole house' protector for superior protection AND for tens of times less money.

I couldn't understand this incoherent nonsense.. Sounds like spam, No I'm not going to switch batteries in and out like a moron only when taking it somewhere will I ever use the batteries If I charge them inside they will be NiCad, and yes I'm using the surge protector with the AC adapter... The Pro-60 is a mobile scanner not radar station..

 

[westom1]

I couldn't understand this incoherent nonsense.. .

A plug-in protector may even compromise superior protection already inside electronics. Surge protector with an adaptor does nothing useful. That is also obvious.

 

[pro92b]

I couldn't understand this incoherent nonsense.. Sounds like spam,

+1 on that.

Regarding the backlight, here is how it's supposed to work:

While the scanner is on, press LIGHT to light the display for 5 seconds.
Press any key other than LIGHT while the backlight is on to keep the
display lit for another 5 seconds. To turn off the backlight before it
automatically turns off, press LIGHT.

The service manual is widely available on the web. Looking at the circuit, it is just a transistor, two LED's , and a resistor. The transistor is driven by a CPU pin and the LIGHT key is an input to the CPU. The most likely failure point is the keypad LIGHT key switch that should tell the CPU to turn on the backlight. The transistor and LED's don't fail often but you can tell if they are ok by measuring voltages with a meter. All these parts are tiny surface mounted types, somewhat difficult to work on if you don't have experience.

 

[wtp]

my light

looks white with a small tinge of green to it.
compared to the uniden 396's it is very dull.
i had to go to a room with no light to see it.

i also recommend an external charger.

 

[DickH]

... The orange Light won't turn on but it works good other than that. ...

You can try the CONTRAST setting. My PRO-95 sometimes lost the setting, but it can be reset like this:
1. Press FUNC 9.
2. Use the arrows to set the contrast.
3. Hit E to save the setting.

 

[wtp]

ahem

a pro 60 doesn't have a function button. or contrast for that matter.

 

[pr60user]

yeah still looking on which key commands will work to get the contrast brighter since no func button on this model and for the light to work.
manual doesn't talk about contrast setting so guess there is none