VE2XWA
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Anybody is using silicone grease for outside connectors?
Silicone grease
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mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
I'm not, I properly seal my connectors on the outside.
I know some people do use this, and it seems to work. Important part is to use a specifically designed dielectric grease. Seems like it should work fine for most hobby/amateur use. Addressing water ingress by filling the voids is a good option. Only issues I've seen is that when it gets hot outside, the grease tends to start flowing. Any gaps and it'll leak out. Any voids created by this are a source of water ingress, or having water condense inside.
I work in telecommunications, and we use a lot of "filled" cables. These multi-conductor cables are filled with a waterproof gel that helps prevent water ingress. Works great until it starts to leak out. It makes a huge mess and can eventually let the water in. properly sealing the outside usually prevents this, even in places (like manholes) where the cable/connections sit under water for long periods of time.
I know some people do use this, and it seems to work. Important part is to use a specifically designed dielectric grease. Seems like it should work fine for most hobby/amateur use. Addressing water ingress by filling the voids is a good option. Only issues I've seen is that when it gets hot outside, the grease tends to start flowing. Any gaps and it'll leak out. Any voids created by this are a source of water ingress, or having water condense inside.
I work in telecommunications, and we use a lot of "filled" cables. These multi-conductor cables are filled with a waterproof gel that helps prevent water ingress. Works great until it starts to leak out. It makes a huge mess and can eventually let the water in. properly sealing the outside usually prevents this, even in places (like manholes) where the cable/connections sit under water for long periods of time.
VE2XWA
Member
Yep i know exactly what your talking about.... Im a field tech for Bell Canada. Im ready to invest in a 500' spool of Belden Coax and i am thinking to use the same stuff we use at work to seal the cable for sealing my connectors. Slicone grease, fusion tape, 3M Tape.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Yeah, that would probably work. The specific grease and how it would react to RF would be something to pay close attention too, but I'm sure you already thought of that.
I've always been trained to seal them well from the outside, however this has been for heliax and associated connectors that are designed for this. Non-waterproof connectors, like UHF, are a different thing.
Nice to know there are some other tip and ring guys here. I worked for Pacific Bell for a short time when I got out of the service, but got picked up by a large university. Even though I'm a manager now, I've managed to keep hold of my truck and all my tools. Still occasionally take a service call or two. I'll always love working in the field. Sort of hate being in the office....
I've always been trained to seal them well from the outside, however this has been for heliax and associated connectors that are designed for this. Non-waterproof connectors, like UHF, are a different thing.
Nice to know there are some other tip and ring guys here. I worked for Pacific Bell for a short time when I got out of the service, but got picked up by a large university. Even though I'm a manager now, I've managed to keep hold of my truck and all my tools. Still occasionally take a service call or two. I'll always love working in the field. Sort of hate being in the office....
12dbsinad
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Reading this thread reminds me of the countless mobile radio antennas that I have had to clean because someone thought it was a good idea to fill the whole underside of the antenna with grease and then thread it on to the mount, causing the center pin to turn black. Use it on the threads, not the center pin!
I use 3M liner less rubber splicing tape topped with 3M Super 88 on all my connections. Works well and doesn't make a mess if you do need to take it apart.
I use 3M liner less rubber splicing tape topped with 3M Super 88 on all my connections. Works well and doesn't make a mess if you do need to take it apart.
prcguy
Member
My opinion is if the connectors are dry when mated and you do an adequate job of external sealing, no internal grease is needed.
My company used to recommend a Silicone-Teflon grease called "Stuff" inside F connectors for outside satellite TV systems.This grease claims to have the same dialectric constant as the coax and you would put a glob right on the center pin of the connector and it squishes and fills all voids inside the connectors when mated.
I've used it on many occasions and found it dries out over time and looses its sealing properties. This was on F connectors with no other external waterproffing methods used.
prcguy
My company used to recommend a Silicone-Teflon grease called "Stuff" inside F connectors for outside satellite TV systems.This grease claims to have the same dialectric constant as the coax and you would put a glob right on the center pin of the connector and it squishes and fills all voids inside the connectors when mated.
I've used it on many occasions and found it dries out over time and looses its sealing properties. This was on F connectors with no other external waterproffing methods used.
prcguy
Tip and ring??? What's that IP address and subnet?
/sarcasm
I 'intensely dislike' UHF connections. They were designed back in the day when UHF was anything over 30 MHz. Easy enough to field assemble and equally easy to clear water from. The impedance match stinks, but is not a problem if you are dealing with hundreds of HF watts. 'N' is more better.
I agree: keep the water out to begin with and everything after that is a non-issue. I have also seen base antennas with pristine coax connections full of water migrating through the antenna itself.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Tip and ring??? What's that IP address and subnet?
/sarcasm
Yeah, been doing VoIP for a while now. The transition has been interesting. I still like twisted pair/POTS, probably always will.
After 7 years of running some level of VoIP at work, I actually just got a chance to start taking some Cisco courses. Just finished up one on Friday.
VE2XWA
Member
Following everybody recommendation I went with " coax seal ".
majoco
Stirrer
One of the problems with silicon grease is that once you've got it, you can't get rid of it. Almost nothing will dissolve it, well - nothing that won't take your skin off!
And - nothing sticks to it, so any tape you want to put over the top won't stay there for long.
If you really want to seal it, then you can get heatshrink tubing with a glue lining. Used extensively on aircraft engines now that they are computer controlled. Minute signal currents don't like any form of contamination and this stuff really seals. Trouble is - what used to take a minute to disconnect and reconnect now take half-an-hour!
My preferred method is not to totally seal the plug and socket, but to give it a raincoat. I try to enclose the connection in a pill container or something like that with a hole in it so that water can't get in and if it does, it drains out. Spiders like it too. :roll:
And - nothing sticks to it, so any tape you want to put over the top won't stay there for long.
If you really want to seal it, then you can get heatshrink tubing with a glue lining. Used extensively on aircraft engines now that they are computer controlled. Minute signal currents don't like any form of contamination and this stuff really seals. Trouble is - what used to take a minute to disconnect and reconnect now take half-an-hour!
My preferred method is not to totally seal the plug and socket, but to give it a raincoat. I try to enclose the connection in a pill container or something like that with a hole in it so that water can't get in and if it does, it drains out. Spiders like it too. :roll:
Same here
Same here. I cover the connection or splice good with Super 88. Then cover the 88 with 3M 2242, stretching it until it turns grey as I wrap it, then cover that good with the 88 again.
Same here. I cover the connection or splice good with Super 88. Then cover the 88 with 3M 2242, stretching it until it turns grey as I wrap it, then cover that good with the 88 again.
+1 I have seen this too often.
I once even had a network, Cisco switch type geek who put dielectric grease on the battery gasket of his Motorola radio also.
3M Super 88 works great to keep connections sealed. Over the past decade I have probably replaced at least 50 NMO antennas that had their center pin turn black for the same reason. Cheap fix and easy money, and job security though.
I once even had a network, Cisco switch type geek who put dielectric grease on the battery gasket of his Motorola radio also.
3M Super 88 works great to keep connections sealed. Over the past decade I have probably replaced at least 50 NMO antennas that had their center pin turn black for the same reason. Cheap fix and easy money, and job security though.
VE2XWA
Member
Ok what should i do with an antenna like the "MP ultra base" ? Just seal the connector and leave the nmo like it is?
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
The NMO mount should be waterproof if all the gaskets/seals are in tact. Lubing the seals with some appropriate grease (often included with some NMO mounts) is useful.
Getting the adapter/coaxial cable connections sealed up is difficult on mounts like that. If you can disassemble the NMO mount and separate the bracket first, that will help quite a bit. Once the coax seal is done, reassemble the mount.
Getting the adapter/coaxial cable connections sealed up is difficult on mounts like that. If you can disassemble the NMO mount and separate the bracket first, that will help quite a bit. Once the coax seal is done, reassemble the mount.
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