• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Tk-7180 Mobile Reception Issue?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Colton25

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
776
So I have my 7180 wired to a Chargeguard, the power is direct from the battery however I have the ignition power coming from the cars crank fuse. I realize a perfect install should only be wired from the battery and the way I have it setup may cause some issues. The reason I have it wired this way is because I want the Chargeguard to power on when I use my remote start. My problem is I'm getting somewhat scratchy audio from only a few channels in my radio but the reception bar on the radio is full... Can the crank power that is only acting as ignition sense for the Chargeguard cause this? When I use the remote start it only powers a selected few things in the car until I put the key in, the regular FM radio doesn't even come on with remote start. So it doesn't leave me with many options for that type of power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,881
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Is this a new install (radio, antenna, power, etc..) or did you just add the chargeguard recently to an existing installation?

What type of vehicle?

Antenna and mount?

How is your power wired? What is the positive lead connected to? What is the negative lead connected to?
 

Colton25

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
776
Old install that I just spruced up with a new wiring install. Antenna is VHF laird nmo. Chargeguard was an addition. It's a Pontiac G6, positive is directly to the battery and the negative is to a factory ground on the frame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,881
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Old install that I just spruced up with a new wiring install. Antenna is VHF laird nmo. Chargeguard was an addition. It's a Pontiac G6, positive is directly to the battery and the negative is to a factory ground on the frame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, used to have a G6 with a UHF radio in it. Fun car to wire (not).

Certainly could be some noise coming in from the ignition circuit.

Try taking the charge guard out of the picture and see if the noise resolves. Maybe something faulty in the charge guard timer.
Check all your connections, make sure they are clean and tight.
Check your wire routing, make sure it's not near any other wiring if at all possible.
Check your grounds.
Try and different "trigger" ground for the timer. Maybe just try triggering it directly off the battery as a test to see if the issue clears up.
 

Colton25

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
776
Ok I'll give all those things a try, how can I determine directly off the battery how many amps I'm pulling through my accessory wire? I have a 60amp fuse and want to make sure I'm still in that window.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,881
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Ok I'll give all those things a try, how can I determine directly off the battery how many amps I'm pulling through my accessory wire?

You need a ammeter or a multimeter that will read amperage.

I have a 60amp fuse and want to make sure I'm still in that window.

A TK-7180 shouldn't be pulling more than about 15 amps on transmit, probably less than 1.5 amps on receive with full volume. The stock Kenwood power cable should be sufficient. If you are installing something other than the Kenwood power cord, I'd recommend using nothing less than 12 gauge and install a 20 amp fuse at close to the battery as you can get it.

As for the ignition sense, a 2 or 3 amp fuse should be sufficient.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top