Difference between AirSpy and NooElec SDRs

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stealthradios

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In the past I have owned several of the NooElec NESDR Mini USB RTL-SDR and liked them.
https://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESD...e=UTF8&qid=1467648760&sr=8-5&keywords=rtl+sdr
I've used them for both ADSB and Aviation VHF/UHF and some Satellite work.

I want to get a few more RTL-SDR's and see people talking about the AirSpy.
https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog...ie=UTF8&qid=1467648421&sr=8-1&keywords=airspy
Other than the antenna connector, I can't see any other difference between either on.

Are there any differences? Mostly I want to use ADSB software and other SDR software, which SDR receiver should I buy?
 

SteveSimpkin

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The biggest difference is the resolution of the ADC and the bandwidth (how much you can see at one time). The NooElec has an 8-bit ADC and a usable bandwidth of about 2.4 MHz. The AirSpy has a 12-bit ADC and a usable bandwidth of about 9 MHz.

The comparison table on the following page shows the main difference's between the R820T based models, like the NooElec, and higher cost models like the AirSpy.
About RTL-SDR - rtl-sdr.com

Here is a full review of the AirSpy compared to similar models.
Review: Airspy vs. SDRplay RSP vs. HackRF - rtl-sdr.com
 

SteveSimpkin

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I'm sorry. I should have looked at your links before I posted. Your second link pointed to a low cost model made by the folks at RTL-SDR Blog, not the higher cost AirSpy.
The main differences between the NooElec and the RTL-SDR Blog version are the antenna connector and the metal case. I bought the RTL-SDR Blog version because I already had SMA connectors on my roof antennas and I thought the metal case would help shield it and make it have less temperature drift. I also wanted to help support the excellent rtl-sdr.com website.

Here is more information on the RTL-SDR BLOG model.
Buy RTL-SDR Dongles (RTL2832U) - rtl-sdr.com
 

SCPD

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Nooelec - who has sold the NESDR Mini for quite some time now - promoted the Minis to one-up the RTL-SDR.com devices in the TCXO category by including a 0.5 ppm TCXO.

The RTL-SDR.com devices - I think - use 1.0 ppm TCXOs.

The NESDR Mini "Plus" metal case was originally an after market add-on. It looks like it would fit some of my early non-TCXO Realteks.

The NESDR Smart is brand spanking new.
 

AggieCon

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The first seems like a decent combination, but the second - why are they still pushing MCX equipped junk? Would anyone buy a scanner that used an MCX connector?

Is MCX more lossy than SMA? I don't understand your opposition to it. What am I missing?

Of course, I already have pigtails and adapters, so it is no big deal to me. If someone is new to SDR, perhaps the SMA might (or it might not) save a little bit in fewer adapters. But the price spread would have to be narrow to make it worth it.

Also, I think it's kind of nice to be able to quickly swap antennas.

IMHO all of the leads and antennas sold with these devices are fairly marginal, so I wouldn't pay more for slightly better junk (when compared to a properly tuned antenna appropriate for the use and with good coax).
 

slicerwizard

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Nooelec - who has sold the NESDR Mini for quite some time now - promoted the Minis to one-up the RTL-SDR.com devices in the TCXO category by including a 0.5 ppm TCXO.

The RTL-SDR.com devices - I think - use 1.0 ppm TCXOs.
Yep, they claim 1 PPM, although the two I have are off by -1.5 PPM...

A tighter TCXO is nice, but I don't think it does much for you. You still have to specify a PPM correction value or let whatever software you're using auto-tune - and software can easily handle 1 or 2 PPM.


Is MCX more lossy than SMA? I don't understand your opposition to it. What am I missing?

Of course, I already have pigtails and adapters, so it is no big deal to me.
Yeah, those pigtails are just dandy when hooking things up in the car for a bit of mobile sleuthing. Not clunky at all and no extra weight hanging off the USB connector...

When DVB-T dongles first came out, we had to live with bad oscillators and bad RF connectors (MCX or PAL, IIRC), so we did. But now we don't have to - it's that simple.


MCX connectors are total junk and break very easily.
What he said.
 

AggieCon

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Thanks. Someday I will post pictures of the internals of all of mine. The generic ones I have all look fine to me (I took them apart after reading something you said about bad soldering).

I was just helping someone with a NooElec Nano. It jumps from stable at pretty much 0 ppm to 45 ppm instantaneously. I should have grabbed some screenshots. Is it possible for it to lose sync with the TXCO? Anyways, that's the first one I've experienced with problems, and it was a fancy brand. Just saying.
 

Voyager

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That's funny. Like saying the Premium Yugo is better than the generic Yugo. But, they are both still Yugos!

True, the T2 is better, but I'm not sure I would call any of the TV dongles "Premium".

Yes, they have better stability, but they have the same front end (or lack of one).

The production quality pics of the TV dongles is something I haven't seen before. I wonder if those were doctored boards
(someone heated up the leads and pulled the components up to make it look like they were made that way).
 

slicerwizard

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The writer seems to be working from a small sample size. To be fair, I've never had any quality control issues with the generics - at least not the dongles themselves. I just don't recommend them unless you really want to be stuck with an MCX connector, plastic case and a sloppy reference oscillator. And a magmount that won't stay on the car roof. And a short length of coax that's poorly made (my generics have steel coax instead of copper - yes, the magmounts won't stay on the car, but they'll stick to the coax...)
 

AggieCon

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Even if it wasn't staged, I wouldn't care if my capacitors were a bit crooked... You should see the television power supplies I've repaired. They look like a kid was doing his first electronics project.

Other than having to get an adapter, I've still not heard why MCX is bad. I like the plug rather than threads. Obviously BNC would be better, but that would make the dongles look a bit funny.
 

dave3825

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Even if it wasn't staged, I wouldn't care if my capacitors were a bit crooked... You should see the television power supplies I've repaired. They look like a kid was doing his first electronics project.

Other than having to get an adapter, I've still not heard why MCX is bad. I like the plug rather than threads. Obviously BNC would be better, but that would make the dongles look a bit funny.

I have that connector and it seemed I was not getting a good connection. I had already soldered type F to the end of the mcx cable. When using the volt meter to check the cable, the prong / pin broke off. I ended up cutting a very small piece of a staple and sticking it in there. Its working. I dont touch that dongle at all now. Its plugged in and working. As soon as I can find a better connector solution,I will go with metal enclosures to house my dongles and would make it similar to airspy's appearance. I bring them when I travel so I want something easy to hook up, and easy to take apart.
 

poltergeisty

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I just don't recommend them unless you really want to be stuck with an MCX connector, plastic case and a sloppy reference oscillator.

My Noo Elec NESDR Mini 2+ has a SMA connector. I bought that one because I figured the aluminum case version would trap heat. Also, this one has a .05 PPM. https://www.amazon.com/dp/b00vz1awqa

I'm going to buy a ham it up down convertor next.
 

eorange

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I've still not heard why MCX is bad.
The connections aren't solid; the male connector separates into 2 pieces; the tiny flaps of metal covering the male fold back and break off; they aren't good for stressed connections. Use them for a while and you'll eventually find out for yourself.
 
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