• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

2017 F150 Extended Cab

Status
Not open for further replies.

jeepsandradios

Member
Feed Provider
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
2,049
Location
East of the Mississippi
Has anyone installed a single NMO in the roof yet ? Where is the best spot to drop the hole ? I really dont want to tear down the headliner (yes i have the proper bit) unless i need to. Normally I drill the hole then fish the cable off to the drivers B pillar. I pulled the rubber but couldn't see if there is any rib in the center or not.

I only plan to install one mount. Any insight would be great.
 

OhSixTJ

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
277
I’d pull the 3rd brake light to see what you’re working with if you don’t wanna drop the headliner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

msingewald

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
May 28, 2003
Messages
312
Location
Norwalk, CT
I did 2 NMO’s, one left and the other right. It was easy to pull the rubber trim down around the back door and reach in to grab the NMO cable.
 

OhSixTJ

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
277
Pulled it earlier today but cant see to far forward. I may just drill and hope !



I couldn’t either. I used a fiberglass rod (harbor freight wire fishing stick thing) to push forward to see where I hit an obstruction. Needed to do this as I have a sunroof.

I stuck it in as far as it’d go then back out a half inch and mark it. Laid it on the roof so I could see how far forward I could go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,842
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
I don't know on the F150's, but I did an F350 regular cab a few weeks ago, and I'm pretty sure the cabs are similar enough.

I installed two antennas, VHF 1/4 wave and 800MHz. One 18" in from the drivers side, one 18" in from the passenger side. I was able to pull the rubber gasket out and get a peek up above the headliner and see it was clear. I ran it to the B pillar and down on each side.

Not sure about doing one in the center. I have a 2011 F150 crew cab and was able to do it, but pretty sure the cabs have changed since then.
 

jeepsandradios

Member
Feed Provider
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
2,049
Location
East of the Mississippi
Thanks. Looks like I'll have to pull the liner when i have time. Had hoped to drop a mount before heading out on a trip. Guess i should have planned better. As for the dome light idea....in past that was fine. This has an LED module in the center and I cannot figure out for the life of me how to remove it.

I have installed hundreds of mounts over the year in every type of vehicle but was trying to save time....
 

scottyhetzel

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
1,409
Location
Palm Springs Area / OrCo
Thanks. Looks like I'll have to pull the liner when i have time. Had hoped to drop a mount before heading out on a trip. Guess i should have planned better. As for the dome light idea....in past that was fine. This has an LED module in the center and I cannot figure out for the life of me how to remove it.

I have installed hundreds of mounts over the year in every type of vehicle but was trying to save time....


https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-f250-how-to-replace-your-dome-light-356124

Here you go!
 

Project25_MASTR

Millennial Graying OBT Guy
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
4,193
Location
Texas
You shouldn't have to drop the liner. You typically can locate the ribs by gently pulling the liner down with the weather stripping pulled away. Quick and easy would be just mounting in the area the CHMSL is located in. Not theoretically the best location but it does work.
 

jeepsandradios

Member
Feed Provider
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
2,049
Location
East of the Mississippi
You shouldn't have to drop the liner. You typically can locate the ribs by gently pulling the liner down with the weather stripping pulled away. Quick and easy would be just mounting in the area the CHMSL is located in. Not theoretically the best location but it does work.

I have multiple mounts to go in so it will be just as easy to drop liner. I tried to pull it down after pulling the rubber as I have done on previous fords but its pretty tight still. As soon as we dont have feet of snow and 10 below zero for a few weeks I'll get back to the project.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,842
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Nothing in those videos relates to a 2017....Totally different..

Getting the rear dome light out of the 2011 was a challenge, but once figured out, it was pretty easy. There were some tabs that went into the headliner that could be released and the dropped out. Getting the bracket that held the light out was a challenge, required turning it sideways and down.

If you are going to be installing multiple mounts, dropping the headliner might be a good thing to do. That might make cable routing a bit easier. Can be done without it, but it's up to you.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top