• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Coax connector Crimp tool Suggestions

Status
Not open for further replies.

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Looking for suggestions on a crimp tool. Mainly used for mobile antenna installs a few times a year. Not sure what die set would be appropriate.

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/paladin-tools-1317-5478

^^ These "full cycle" style crimp tools are pretty good. The ratcheting mechanism makes sure you do a full crimp before it releases.
Plus, you can buy different dies for them depending on what you need.

I use those at work and at home, and have several different sets with different dies.
I use them for solderless type lug terminals for doing 12 volt wiring. They do an excellent job.
I have a few different ones I use for coaxial connectors, and they work well.

A couple of things to consider, though...
Different style connectors will require different sorts of crimps. Make sure the crimp die you have is the correct one for the connectors you purchase. Manufacturer specs will tell you what size cavity to use for proper crimping.
Don't forget strippers. Different connectors will have different strip measurements. However, a good sharp exacto knife will work if you are really careful.
The crimpers are only as good as the connectors, make sure you purchase good connectors proper for the cable you are using.

The other set you mentioned will work, but I prefer the ones above.

I have a set like this at home: https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-Tool...per+tool+set&qid=1558938680&s=gateway&sr=8-93
If you shop around, you can find the same kit with a different brand name on it quite a bit cheaper. For occasional use, it's been pretty good.

I'd also suggest...
Some connectors require soldering the center pin, so make sure you have a small soldering iron with some fine diameter solder. Sometimes you can get a bit too much solder on it, so a small fine file can be helpful.
The exacto knife I mentioned able is handy for getting the coax strip correct. The included tool doesn't always do a perfect job.
Heat shrink tubing over the crimp is a real good idea, plus it makes it look professional. I'd recommend the marine grade heat shrink tubing that has the hot melt adhesive on the inside. This makes for a really good strain relief. I add that to all my coax connectors. Most larger professional connectors include it with the kit. A small heat gun makes shrinking it easy. You can pick up heat guns used for paint stripping at most hardware stores for $30 or less.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
excellent tips, thank you for the feedback! any die set suggestions for 12v use?

Depends on the crimp tool you get. They make crimp dies for both insulated and uninsulated crimp terminals. Usually they cover 22-10 gauge. You need to find the handles and then make sure you get crimp dies that fit it. A lot of them seem to be similar, but I'm not sure the different brands are interchangeable. If you go with the more expensive name brands, like AMP, Tyco, etc. you can buy the dies easily to fit the toosl. Problem is, it's really expensive. Or, you can just buy separate tools. If you don't buy the big name brands, they tend to be cheaper.

Since I do a lot of this stuff, I have separate tools for coaxial installation and DC wiring. Just makes things go faster without having to switch dies back and forth. At work, I bought these for my guys: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-189...crimper+kit&qid=1558940221&s=gateway&sr=8-122
They won't do coaxial cable, but they'll do insulated and uninsulated crimp terminals.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
For the heat shrink guns...
I use these, both at home and work: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-6966C...rds=heat+gun&qid=1558940582&s=gateway&sr=8-91
They are small and put a very narrow spot of heat, so they are good for small connections. But they are expensive.

You can save some money by using something like this, a bit broader spot of heat, but if you are careful it can work:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER...ords=heat+gun&qid=1558940689&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Also good for doing larger connectors, like LMR-400, 600, Heliax, etc.

With the adhesive lined heat shrink, you can use that over all your DC power crimped connections, too. Like with the coax, provides for great strain relief, waterproof, and makes all the connections look good.

I went a step further many years ago and bought some clear heat shrink tubing. That lets me put a label on the cables and put the clear heat shrink over them. Helps the labels stay on when they are exposed.
 

bondo_06092

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
86
Location
Region 3
i picked up a heat gun from harbor freight a while back. It does the job as long as you manage your heating distance. I'll have to look into the adhesive heat shrink. Just been using the normal stuff. Looking to upgrade my process and tools a bit as I don't d it often but I do it enough to warrant doing it properly.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
i picked up a heat gun from harbor freight a while back. It does the job as long as you manage your heating distance. I'll have to look into the adhesive heat shrink. Just been using the normal stuff. Looking to upgrade my process and tools a bit as I don't d it often but I do it enough to warrant doing it properly.

Harbor Freight sells small boxes of marine grade heat shrink. If you only do a few connectors a year, it's a decent way to get what you need. It's got a few different sizes, but you'll find uses for them.
Or, you can go on Amazon, E-Bay, Cabletiesandmore.com - Cable Management At The Lowest Prices, etc, and just buy the size you need in the colors you want.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Can be a bit expensive to buy into all this, but once you have the tools, it makes life a lot easier. I occasionally stock up on heat shrink, connectors, split loom tubing, etc. and usually have what I need.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
This is the kit I have had dating back to 1986

That looks similar to what I have at work.
On a side note, I was able to grab several of the old tools from the network side of our shop. Old thin-net/thick net tools used back in the days of Ethernet over coax. Thin net used RG-58 with BNC connectors and thick net used RG-8 with N connectors. I'm basically good with that stuff for several lifetimes.
 

WB9YBM

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2019
Messages
1,390
All,

Looking for suggestions on a crimp tool. Mainly used for mobile antenna installs a few times a year. Not sure what die set would be appropriate.

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/paladin-tools-1317-5478
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/terrawave-ht-106l-5473

The above were examples of what i found that may work. Open to suggestions

thanks!

The die has to match the connector type/size & coax thickness. I found a few at Newark: https://www.newark.com/search?st=coax crimper . I've dealt with Newark for several decades (both professionally & supplying stuff for my own use and have always had good luck with them.

As a side-note, how strongly do you feel about crimping versus alternatives? The reason I ask is that since it's only a mechanical connection where humidity can get in, I've had crimp connections go bad on me, so I developed something a bit more rugged (using automotive hose clamps) and a good quality heat-shrink (instructions attached). I've used this outdoors and left it exposed to the elements for over a decade with good results.
 

Attachments

  • coax connector assembly.pdf
    36.6 KB · Views: 13

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
As a side-note, how strongly do you feel about crimping versus alternatives?

Lack of waterproofing is something I see as a common issue on the hobby side of things. Not sure if it's a lack of understanding, a lack of proper parts/tools, or just ignorance.
It's not difficult to do correctly. I'm not understanding the reluctance of some to do it. Doesn't really matter if it's a crimped, soldered or clamped connector.

On the commercial side, adhesive lined heat shrink is included with most of the larger connectors. All of my Times Microwave LMR connectors come with it in the package. Waterproofing kits are common in the industry, prepackaged with everything needed. Most cable/connector manufacturers have documentation on how to properly do it.

I won't go through the entire process here, as it's been posted several times. The industry standards work, and work well.

Your approach is one I haven't seen before, but looks like it would work just fine. Methods are not as important as finding a solution that works.
 

WB9YBM

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2019
Messages
1,390
Lack of waterproofing is something I see as a common issue on the hobby side of things. Not sure if it's a lack of understanding, a lack of proper parts/tools, or just ignorance.
It's not difficult to do correctly. I'm not understanding the reluctance of some to do it. Doesn't really matter if it's a crimped, soldered or clamped connector.

On the commercial side, adhesive lined heat shrink is included with most of the larger connectors. All of my Times Microwave LMR connectors come with it in the package. Waterproofing kits are common in the industry, prepackaged with everything needed. Most cable/connector manufacturers have documentation on how to properly do it.

I won't go through the entire process here, as it's been posted several times. The industry standards work, and work well.

Your approach is one I haven't seen before, but looks like it would work just fine. Methods are not as important as finding a solution that works.

The main thing to stay away from is that tape that feels gooey--I forgot the name of it--came on a roll similar to electrical tape, but you could spread it over the connector after having wrapped a few turns of it around a connector. Total garbage. It let moisture in, but would not let it evaporate making the connectors corrode faster than those without any waterproofing on them (and that happened to me on several connectors, so it's not just a fluke). The approach I liked that worked well are rubber boots over connectors, or just leaving off waterproofing entirely (we used both approaches at Motorola with good success).
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,857
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
Yeah, some of that stuff is crap.
I use the self fusing silicone tape. Layer of electrical tape first to make for easy removal. Layer of self fusing tape, another layer of electrical tape.

Usually the failures I see are from improper application. Some antenna designs make it difficult to get the stuff up as far as needed. Some installers cut corner, get lazy, don't care. Then they fail. I've had to fix a few of those.
Issue I have with boots is that they don't always provide a proper seal. Moisture can still get up inside the voids of the connector, or inside hollow core cables. We get a lot of fog where I am, and moisture condensing inside connectors is a real issue.

I'm sure some parts of the county boots work well.

there's some good approaches to waterproofing. Putting the effort into it isn't hard, no matter what approach one takes.
 

K2BUFF

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
24
Location
BUFFALO, NY
All,

Looking for suggestions on a crimp tool. Mainly used for mobile antenna installs a few times a year. Not sure what die set would be appropriate.

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/paladin-tools-1317-5478
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/terrawave-ht-106l-5473

The above were examples of what i found that may work. Open to suggestions

thanks!

Bought mine through tessco. Not cheap but works perfect. Sorry don’t have specs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

WB9YBM

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2019
Messages
1,390
Yeah, some of that stuff is crap.
I use the self fusing silicone tape. Layer of electrical tape first to make for easy removal. Layer of self fusing tape, another layer of electrical tape.

Usually the failures I see are from improper application. Some antenna designs make it difficult to get the stuff up as far as needed. Some installers cut corner, get lazy, don't care. Then they fail. I've had to fix a few of those.
Issue I have with boots is that they don't always provide a proper seal. Moisture can still get up inside the voids of the connector, or inside hollow core cables. We get a lot of fog where I am, and moisture condensing inside connectors is a real issue.

I'm sure some parts of the county boots work well.

there's some good approaches to waterproofing. Putting the effort into it isn't hard, no matter what approach one takes.

I know what you mean. When I put antenna sections together I'll wash them down with mineral spirits or window cleaner, wrap a good quality electrical tape over it, substitute automotive hose clamps for the cheesy ones that came with the antenna, and spray the whole thing with Krylon. Antennas that I've been told needing cleaning after three or four years (built without using my technique) have lasted 10+ years without needing a cleaning when I used the approach I mentioned (and this in the Chicago area where weather can get pretty extreme).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top