DylanMadigan
Member
I see the option in CPS but it is grayed out. I know it's possible for these to turn on with vehicle power, as our FD uses them, but mine seem to not let me do that. I got mine used on ebay through some police department.
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Can I auto power on the CDM1550-LS+?
- Thread starter DylanMadigan
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- auto auto power on cdm1550 power vehicle
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You have to wire the radio that way. Run your power to 12VDC, and wire your accessory kit to the proper pin in the rear of the radio to a fuse that only supplies 12VDC when you turn the key. This should also power the radio down when the vehicle is turned off. The CPS doesn't know when you turn the car on or off.
I think this should help, I haven't installed a 1550 in quite sometime.
I think this should help, I haven't installed a 1550 in quite sometime.
DylanMadigan
Member
I was under the impression I could just set the radio where when it receives power, turn on, until the power is removed and it cant be on.
Where would I find this accessory kit?
And I have a 150amp circuit that only powers on with the key in battery or running, or with the override switch, so I have something to connect to.
Where would I find this accessory kit?
And I have a 150amp circuit that only powers on with the key in battery or running, or with the override switch, so I have something to connect to.
Do some quick searching on ignition sense. You set the CPS for ignition plus on off. The ignition sense kits are easily found on eBay from a seller named MRE1032.
There is already tons of information in previous posts on ignition sense here and on the batboard. It is all very easily found with a tiny bit of searching.
There is already tons of information in previous posts on ignition sense here and on the batboard. It is all very easily found with a tiny bit of searching.
N4KVE
Member
Yes, but since most people wire the radio to the battery, it would always have power. That's what the IGNITION SENSE wire is for. But yes, if you could wire the 12+ feed to the radio to a wire that was hot only when the engine is running, that would work too, but might not be capable of supplying the current the radio needs during transmit.
DylanMadigan
Member
Sorry, I wasn't really sure what I was looking for, but I'll definitely take a closer look around now.
I would be fine with wiring it directly to a circuit on with the key only, as the radio only uses a few amps, and mine can provide 150 on this line. The van it's self is wired and ready to go, it is a neard's dream lol, but I do not see how I can get the radio to turn on once it has power again. My existing radios/scanners have a switch in the volume knob, so I just leave them on, then they turn on when their power line turns on. Is that in the settings somewhere?
I would be fine with wiring it directly to a circuit on with the key only, as the radio only uses a few amps, and mine can provide 150 on this line. The van it's self is wired and ready to go, it is a neard's dream lol, but I do not see how I can get the radio to turn on once it has power again. My existing radios/scanners have a switch in the volume knob, so I just leave them on, then they turn on when their power line turns on. Is that in the settings somewhere?
The Motorola install manual calls for main power hot to the battery hot terminal. Main power ground goes to a factory ground point near the battery and ignition sense which only draws an amp or so goes to an ignition control line. In your case with the van you can run your hot line to the 150 amp tap point no problem.
With a little bit of Internet searching you can find Motorola's install manual for the CDM radios. It will give you all that information and more.
With a little bit of Internet searching you can find Motorola's install manual for the CDM radios. It will give you all that information and more.
Set the CPS Ignition Sense to On/Off & Igniton. That way you can manually turn it on or off plus let it go on/off with ignition/accessory. On/Off in the CDM's is by pushing the volume knob, not turning it.
Find the user guide online, download it, and study it. Details like the on/off button are all in there.
Find the user guide online, download it, and study it. Details like the on/off button are all in there.
DylanMadigan
Member
I know that the CDM is a button, I was just saying that other radios its just a switch. For some reason the PDF for the manual wont open on this PC so I'll try it from another one later.
Thank you.
The "Ignition sense kit" is nothing more than a wire, a fuse, and a connector that fits the accessory socket on the back of the radio. I believe it is pin 25 but may be different with your particular radio. The "kit" connects to a +12 volt ignition switched source. It can be connected to any +12 volt source if you don't want the radio to turn off/on with the ignition. (This also needs to be programmed in the radio to work correctly).
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Pin 10!!!!!!!
Pin 10!!!!!!!
Pin 10!!!!!!!
OP seemed unfamiliar with this so I felt just getting the $4 kit would simplify the conversation for him.
davidzimmerman
Member
you can also jump pin #4 and #10 on the accessory plug and wire the MAIN HOT wire to IGN power on\off
I believe you will find that it is 4 and 7; ext alarm and ground. 10 requires constant 12vdc which 4 can not possibly provide.
No, pin 10 tied to 4 will accomplish what the OP is looking for. We have several in control station configuration using such a jumper and it means the radios will always power back up without the user having to think about it (like when the power goes out).
I've been studying and researching the CDM's for over five years since that is the primary radio for this whole county. This is the absolute first I have heard of the 10/4 jumper solution for permanent ignition sense. The 7/4 solution has been commonly discussed over the years, and there have been numerous discussions of ignition sense problems with no mention of 10/4 as a solution.
How should Pin #4 be programmed for this fix? According to the help file for the CPS, low is the only active level that the radio acknowledges for Pin #4.
Project25_MASTR
Millennial Graying OBT Guy
If it's a soft key power button Motorola, it requires ignition sense and full power to the mains to remember power state when ignition is on/off (very little actual current draw).
Ignition sense actually goes back to some old FCC regs about preventing unauthorized use and it is still common in mission critical equipment (Spectra, Astro, Apex etc) and optional in everything else.
But as being viewed, not all 16 pin (16 pin accessories work with CDM series even they are 24 pin) pin outs were the same and the difference was usually in the band. V low, V hi, and UHF are generally the standard pin outs while 800/900 were different. Not knowing too much about the CDM other than it was about as versatile as the Maxtrac and available in nearly as many bands, it would be something I look out for.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ignition sense actually goes back to some old FCC regs about preventing unauthorized use and it is still common in mission critical equipment (Spectra, Astro, Apex etc) and optional in everything else.
But as being viewed, not all 16 pin (16 pin accessories work with CDM series even they are 24 pin) pin outs were the same and the difference was usually in the band. V low, V hi, and UHF are generally the standard pin outs while 800/900 were different. Not knowing too much about the CDM other than it was about as versatile as the Maxtrac and available in nearly as many bands, it would be something I look out for.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't know how "legit" it is as far as Motorola is concerned but pin 4 always has 12 V on it and if you're not using using it, it works tied to 10. The senior techs at work taught me this trick.
http://forums.radioreference.com/motorola-forum/113574-cdm1250-ignition-sense-bypass.html#post852199
DylanMadigan
Member
I gave it some thought, and I think I will keep the radio wired to a constant live circuit, and just attach P10 to a key circuit, this way someone could still turn the radio on of the vehicle is off (if i turn on the vehicle, you hear a bang as two 150A solenoid relays slam on, I don't need all of that running if I just want to use this radio lol).
On a scale of 1 to 10 (because I'm cheap, and I like to rush when it is okay), how bad of an idea is it to solder a wire tight to that pin? Is there any chance at all of the heat damaging the radio? I'm guessing yes, and this isn't a cheap little radio like some of my others, so I don't think its a good idea.
On a scale of 1 to 10 (because I'm cheap, and I like to rush when it is okay), how bad of an idea is it to solder a wire tight to that pin? Is there any chance at all of the heat damaging the radio? I'm guessing yes, and this isn't a cheap little radio like some of my others, so I don't think its a good idea.
The wire is usually soldered to the pin and then the pin is inserted into the connector and then the
connector pushed onto the radio. At least remove the connector from the radio before trying to solder the wire to the pin in the connector. The heat can deform the connector. Do you have the pin removal tool? That would be the right way to do it.
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connector pushed onto the radio. At least remove the connector from the radio before trying to solder the wire to the pin in the connector. The heat can deform the connector. Do you have the pin removal tool? That would be the right way to do it.
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DylanMadigan
Member
No I don't, but if the heat might damage it then ill just order the connectors and wait. I have no problem saving a couple dollars only if its not going to risk the equipment at all. TY!
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