• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.
  • Effective immediately we will be deleting, without notice, any negative threads or posts that deal with the use of encryption and streaming of scanner audio.

    We've noticed a huge increase in rants and negative posts that revolve around agencies going to encryption due to the broadcasting of scanner audio on the internet. It's now worn out and continues to be the same recycled rants. These rants hijack the threads and derail the conversation. They no longer have a place anywhere on this forum other than in the designated threads in the Rants forum in the Tavern.

    If you violate these guidelines your post will be deleted without notice and an infraction will be issued. We are not against discussion of this issue. You just need to do it in the right place. For example:
    https://forums.radioreference.com/rants/224104-official-thread-live-audio-feeds-scanners-wait-encryption.html

Do I need to ground my antenna?

Do I NEED to ground my antenna?

  • Yes, I do

    Votes: 5 83.3%
  • No, I do not

    Votes: 1 16.7%

  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .
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Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
6
#1
Hello, I just received my 4' Firestik Firefly fiberglass antenna in thr mail today and was considering mounting options for my '01 Toyota Tacoma. Asthetically, the best looking spot for it is attached to the walls of my trucks bed, however, the bed has been covered in a nice spray bed liner ever since the truck was brand new; must I really scrape off the liner to my trucks bare metal just to mount my new antenna?

Thank You,
asianfromthecongo
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
214
Location
Millers Creek, NC
#2
Grounding...YES! Scrape off the paint, probably not. I have a 2010 Toyota Tundra with a spray in liner and I have a 4' fire stick mounted on the inside of the bed. I had a "L" bracket made that would fit just under the rail of the bed using the mounting hole in the side for the optional bed rails. I did not remove any liner, just made sure that the screw threads were clean. The mount used the existing hole and one sheet metal screw to hold it in place. I checked the swr with an antenna analyzer and my swr runs from 1.2 to 1.4 to 1 across the band. I mounted the antenna in the first hole from the cab on the passenger side, a metal tool box is between the cab and the antenna. So try it without removing the bed liner, then you can always remove it (under the mount only!) if your swr doesn't suit you.
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Messages
664
Location
Mojave Ca
#3
Hello A+17: Yeah great advice from sloop there.

The problem is when the antenna is mounted too close to the cab causing the antenna SWR to go up around to 1 to 3, something like that. Yeah the shield / antenna mount needs to be connected to the body, or grounded as you say. I have seen the antennas performance increased when the antenna is moved from a few inches next to the cab, to on top of the cap.

I have a mini truck and use a magnetic mount in the center of the top of the cab. I have made L brackets that mount in between the cab and the top center cab mounted brake light. This works quit well. I routed the coax from the antenna down thru the cavity from the top cab brake light to the radio. And some of these antenna installations have the coax routed on the outside going down the back of the cap, and there is usually a hole in the bottom of the cab that is plugged with a rubber grommet that easy to put a hole in it for the coax and then to the radio.

Good Luck

Jay in the Mojave
 
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