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I bricked my HT1250LS today and I'm not sure how

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K2NEC

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Maybe it could be the tabs that are on the back of the radio that connect to the battery? Or an internal issue with wiring?
 

gradymedic

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Maybe it could be the tabs that are on the back of the radio that connect to the battery? Or an internal issue with wiring?

I took it out of the case yesterday so I could see the terminals touching of the battery touching the terminals on the radio. I power tested the terminals at the battery. Next step is to take the board sections apart and see if I can trace the power circuit and see where it is failing.

I probably will keep after this as I'm just plain curious at this point. You are correct. Everything I read in the 200/700 1250ls service manual showed SOMETHING on the display if it was bricked. This guy has absolutely nothing. The codeplug read is coincidence and I think it was getting ready to fail all by itself. That or the LiIon made some voltage difference somewhere or waveform difference in some power transformer that has worked one way on it for the last 20 years and the change pushed it over the edge and it died.

20 years is a fair service life for a portable that got nothing but the occasional new battery. (maybe 4 in its lifetime).
 

N1GTL

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Maybe a stupid question but did you check the fuse on the PCB with a meter?
 

gradymedic

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Maybe a stupid question but did you check the fuse on the PCB with a meter?

Not a stupid question at all! But I have to have that small (I think its a #6) tek head to take the board apart. Ive got one in the shop at home but the radio is here with me at work in my office. Will definitely be checking it over the weekend!
 

N1GTL

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Not a stupid question at all! But I have to have that small (I think its a #6) tek head to take the board apart. Ive got one in the shop at home but the radio is here with me at work in my office. Will definitely be checking it over the weekend!

I may be wrong but I think the fuse is on the exposed side when you just take the radio apart from the case. Location varies based on band and year the radio was manufactured. It should be grey, 2 amp.
 

gradymedic

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I may be wrong but I think the fuse is on the exposed side when you just take the radio apart from the case. Location varies based on band and year the radio was manufactured. It should be grey, 2 amp.

Searched it, found some schematics from Mother, Ohm'd it out... its fine... (and still dead...)
 

radioman2001

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Definitly sounds like the power up circuitry. Have had a few of them, they are a PIA to troubleshoot especially the HT over the CDM. Now that these radios are EOL, we just break the radio up for parts, display knobs etc. Find another of Fleabay they are cheap enough. If you have access to Lab buy a 750 (even cheaper) and upgrade it and put it in you original case.
 

DieterBohlen

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You can try to flash it with the US Waris Lab upgradetool.If it breaks in the flash process,you have to change the FLASHROM.In the earlier Waris radios with Atmel FLASHROMs I often had these problems.
Use a Win XP PC for it.
 

KG7TTY

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A lot of times, I find bad on-off switches causing your problem. One thread suggests . small amount of WD40 in the volume/power pot. I've had luck with this in the past .. but it's temporary. You could probable jumper across the solder points for the actual switch .. not really sure off hand which ones they are.
 

radioman2001

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Quote"
You can try to flash it with the US Waris Lab upgradetool.
Use a Win XP PC for it.

The radio has to power up first to do that. Even throwing flash switch won't bring it up if the power circuit is not working. Always use XP for any flash upgrading, etc.
I have found a few times it was the main CPU chip (probably the internal memory corrupt) or it's ref crystal. Removed one from a water damaged radio and I got it to work. Then re-flashed it.
 
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