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Installing a radio on an ATV

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mgolden2

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Is installing a two way radio on an ATV the same as in a vehicle. Just run the power wires from the radio to the battery? How would I mount an antenna since there isn't really a ground. And finally, I've seen some guys who have LED strobe lights and emergency lights on their bikes and was wondering how they accomplish wiring these in? Most ATVs have small batteries that wouldn't seem to handle that kind of load. Any ideas about how to hook up a radio would be great. (Obviously I know it would be best to mount it in a waterproof case somewhere on the bike).

Thanks guys,
Matt

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n5ims

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Is installing a two way radio on an ATV the same as in a vehicle. Just run the power wires from the radio to the battery? How would I mount an antenna since there isn't really a ground. And finally, I've seen some guys who have LED strobe lights and emergency lights on their bikes and was wondering how they accomplish wiring these in? Most ATVs have small batteries that wouldn't seem to handle that kind of load. Any ideas about how to hook up a radio would be great. (Obviously I know it would be best to mount it in a waterproof case somewhere on the bike).

Thanks guys,
Matt

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Don't use a car install as your guide, use a motorcycle install instead. A car generally has a more protected environment so moisture and "toughness" isn't as much of an issue. There are radios especially designed for a motorcycle installation since many PD agencies use them for traffic patrols and enforcement. Using one of those models should provide the additional protection you'll need for your ATV.
 

mmckenna

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I rode ATV's for years, then switched to side by sides in 2010.
A mobile radio on an ATV will really depend on the radio. An amateur grade radio probably isn't going to last very long. The vibration and dust would do it in pretty quick. As N5IMS said, there are specifically designed radios for this. Actually, it's not the radio that's designed for it as it's more the control head that's designed for it.

You really need to keep the radio protected from water, mud, dust and vibration. If you look at a police motorcycle, you will usually see a large white box behind the rider. The radio "guts" are located inside there. Inside the box is a metal plate that the radio gets installed on. The plate is mounted on vibration dampeners. The box itself protects the radio. The control heads that they use are specifically designed for motorcycle mounting. Motorola, Kenwood and Vertex all make "motorcycle" control heads for their radios. They are designed to withstand the wet, dust and vibration as well as have large knobs, buttons and displays.
Drawback here is going to be the price. The other issue is that mounting the antenna can be difficult. It's not a really good idea to have a 40-50 watt radio feeding an antenna that is close to the rider. You'll often find that the public safety motorcycle radios run 15 watts or so at the most. More than that and the RF exposure is beyond OSHA rules. As for the ground plane, the radio boxes on the motorcycles usually have a metal sheet under the lid. The antennas are mounted to the box, sometimes, and the metal sheet under the lid acts as the ground plane. This works well for UHF, 700 and 800MHz, not so well for VHF or low band. You can try and use the racks, if your machine has them, but you can also use a half wave antenna, which don't require a ground plane to work. They are not ideal performers, but if you are not expecting too much, it should be fine. Getting whacked by the whip probably won't be much fun, so as they say, location, location, location.

When I was riding ATV's, I looked at all this and figured it wasn't worth the hassle. I ended up using a hand held with a longer, upgraded antenna, and keeping that in a backpack I wore while riding. Putting a handheld in a backpack with a remote speaker mic and a good antenna actually worked pretty well. Getting the radio and antenna away from body mass helps with performance quite a bit. This actually was a huge benefit for me once when I wiped out. Me and the ATV got separated, and I'd been injured bad enough that I couldn't stand. Having the radio attached to me, rather than the ATV, allowed me to call for help, rather than waiting for them to notice I wasn't with them.

As for power, yeah, right off the battery, but ATV's can be kind of noisy in the RF department. Don't be surprised if you have to add a filter to the power, or play with different grounding techniques. The small batteries and small alternators work OK as often the engines are revved pretty high. Long conversations at high power will cause issues, but hey, at least most ATV's still have a pull start (at least they used to).

For lighting, LED's are really the way to go. Reduced current draw will help the situation quite a bit, but keeping mindful about the limitations is a good idea. If there is room, a second battery can help, but it's only going to extend runtime, not prevent the issue. You are kind of limited by the size/output of the alternator.

In 2010 I happily switched to a Polaris Ranger. Having a roll cage and seat belts at least gave me the feeling of being slightly safer. A metal roof give a good ground plane for the antenna, and a bigger engine/alternator and battery help too. I have no issues running a 45 watt VHF radio with a "normal" antenna. I added a set of LED lights, and so far I haven't had any issues. Just keep an eye on your battery.
 

mmckenna

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Figured I should add some info on the radios…
When I was on ATVs, I was using a Yeasu VX170, and it worked well. Waterproof, so mud and rain wasn't an issue. I could actually rinse the thing off after a ride.
Switched to a Motorola HT1000 after a while. Louder audio made it easier to hear…

When the Polaris Ranger became my ride, I installed a Motorola CDM-750 with a remote head. The RF deck is in the glove compartment. The remote head is installed under the dash. Worse case scenario is I'd have to replace the remote head if it got wet, but so far I haven't had any issues. It's outside all the time. A remote speaker helps make the audio loud and understandable. This would probably be a good idea on an ATV also. Without the external speaker, the audio was a bit hard to understand. My dad and brother both have Polaris Rzr's and they tried amateur mobile radios with no external speaker and the audio was useless. Even an external speaker didn't help as much. Getting a radio that can drive a big speaker really helps.

When I was using the Yaesu VX170, I had an in-helmet speaker mic. Worked well, it was easy to hear the audio and others could hear and understand me. I've though of adapting one to my mobile, but too much of a hassle right now.
 

fdscan

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I've done some light installs on a side-by-side before which were relatively simple, but although I've always wanted to, nothing radio related. I've always wondered about it...

I've always been curious, on the typical ATV/UTV roof, is it just one piece of material, whether it's metal or plastic? Or is there any "room" in between two layers to fish wire through? I've always thought the idea of mounting a control head right up there would be nice. To be honest, you could even do it on a roll cage, but you'd just have wires showing. This is more of a question for mmckenna, probably, but, with the Polaris RZRs (such as the one I worked on) and most other side-by-sides with a metal roll cage, would it be possible to drill an L-bracket NMO mount right into it, assuming it's grounded? Forgive me if that's stupid in some way, I'm not the most educated on this sort of stuff, still experimenting!

OP, I just remembered something that might help you. I've seen an install done before on an older Bombardier ATV, but it used one of the front compartments, in the "hood", where you can open it up and there's sort of a storage bucket. They stuck a siren and a dash-mount radio in there, and it all fit in, I guess. Powering probably just went to the battery, not sure how the wiring worked on that. This wouldn't be that bad of an option if it works for you, I think they mounted the antenna on an L-bracket to the metal bars that run across the "hood". Speaker was part of the radio itself, and the mic I think was mounted in that same storage compartment on a mic hook. I'm sure you could do the same sort of thing, but maybe with the mic clip on the outside of the box? There were also lights, TIR3's that ran off of a toggle switch on the dash. Again, not sure on the wiring of those.
 

DisasterGuy

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I have done mobile radio installs on Gators in EMS service before but for a 4-wheeler it is best to just stick to a portable radio worn by the rider and a headset. As for emergency lighting, stick with LED's as they have virtually no current draw. I have put LED's on Gators and 4 wheelers with no issues. The Gators are even capable of supporting a 100 watt siren with no problem.
 

CaptDan

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Any pictures or suggestions regarding how you did the installs on those Gators. I have to install some radios on a couple of Gators that will be used out in the fields.

Thanks




Dan
 

DisasterGuy

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Any pictures or suggestions regarding how you did the installs on those Gators. I have to install some radios on a couple of Gators that will be used out in the fields.

Dan- I don't have any pictures however I used dashmount radios installed in the limited "under dash" space near the center of the dashboard. A better option would have been to use a motorcycle kit. With that said, this was only done because it was requested and was not what I would recommend. When it comes to Gators, 4-Wheelers, etc I honestly believe that a portable radio with either a noise cancelling speaker-mic or a headset is the best option.
 

CaptDan

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Thanks, yes I agree - a portable is the best solution, and that is what is done most of the time. Two of our Gators go out in the fields far enough that a 4 watt portable just doesn't do it. So giving consideration to installing a mobile - if we do i will post pictures.

Thanks anyway - was just asking - I am not too proud to copy others suggestions - recommendations or their work.

Thanks

Dan
 

DisasterGuy

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In that case I would go with a Motorcycle kit or at the very least a radio with a handheld controller. Create a water resistant enclosure for the radio and then install a modular disconnect under the dash for the handheld controller so that it can be stowed in the rain.


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mmckenna

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I've always been curious, on the typical ATV/UTV roof, is it just one piece of material, whether it's metal or plastic? Or is there any "room" in between two layers to fish wire through? I've always thought the idea of mounting a control head right up there would be nice. To be honest, you could even do it on a roll cage, but you'd just have wires showing. This is more of a question for mmckenna, probably, but, with the Polaris RZRs (such as the one I worked on) and most other side-by-sides with a metal roll cage, would it be possible to drill an L-bracket NMO mount right into it, assuming it's grounded? Forgive me if that's stupid in some way, I'm not the most educated on this sort of stuff, still experimenting!
I've only seen single layer roof tops for these, I won't say that there are any double walled rooftops, but I've never seen one.
Mine is heavy plastic, although there are others that are aluminum or steel.
For my plastic roof, I used a piece of sheet metal mounted to the roof to act as the ground plane.
The issue with them is cable routing. I had to ty-wrap the coaxial cable to the roll cage to route it up there. My brother in law actually drilled a hole in his and routed the cable inside the tubing. I didn't feel comfortable breaching the tubing with mine. My roof vibrates, so mounting a control head to it would probably not work out well. Routing the cables up there, while not impossible, isn't' easy. On the steel or aluminum rooftops, this might work just fine.

The Rzr's have just that, an NMO "L" bracket mounted to the roll cage. Not an ideal ground plane, but it works. Neither of the two Rzr's in the family have rooftops on them, so this was the only option. The roll cage doesn't need to be grounded for it to work as a ground plane, but it likely is. I never bothered to check since it wasn't required.
 

Project25_MASTR

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My Jeep, granted it's a Cherokee, has a remote head mounted on the dash with the rest tucked neatly under the back seat as high in the tub as possible (I regularly wash out the interior). Now we run surplus Motorolas on GMRS in Jeeps that stay out in the elements…they are still alive. Motorola was pretty good at sealing up their radios. I've through about making a mostly sealed enclosure for my one of my Icom mobiles and installing it on one of my quads. Turning it down to 25W or so should be okay (as long as keep it on a 1/4 wave antenna, might get a little to warm if I run 5/8 over 5/8 on UHF). Been toying around with a APRS tracker on a 5W HT chassis with a 5/8 wave antenna on the same quad (that one I could tuck back in the waterproof compartment of the quad).

If mounting an antenna on fiberglass, remember, aluminum tape can help supply a ground plane.
 

Project25_MASTR

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The Rzr's have just that, an NMO "L" bracket mounted to the roll cage. Not an ideal ground plane, but it works. Neither of the two Rzr's in the family have rooftops on them, so this was the only option. The roll cage doesn't need to be grounded for it to work as a ground plane, but it likely is. I never bothered to check since it wasn't required.

I see a lot of university ground services, SAR and LEO side by sides setup exactly like that. Most of the have fully grounded cages. Even if it weren't, technically they're still negative grounded frames, the coax shielding is grounded to the radio chassis, which is generally grounded to negative power cable (straight to the battery). Depends on the radios though.
 

Project25_MASTR

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Project25_MASTR

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I had an idea earlier. Pryme makes a bluetooth setup compatible with most handhelds (and some mobiles). Depending on the mobile, you could go with a marine water resistant box running the bluetooth headset with a PTT button mounted somewhere on the handle bars.

Bluetooth
 
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