John Deere pre-installed NMO/Power ???

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#1
Getting ready to do some JD installs, I am told the coax for the factory installed NMO, and a power cable are buried in the back right cab corner cover.

Can anyone confirm?

I have done a couple of CaseIH and they were that way.
 

BlueDevil

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#2
It seems like the JD installs that I have done are that way. If not the right rear post its the right front post.
 

cmjonesinc

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#3
Depends on the specific model but all the ones I've messed with have been on the right side. Most of the time the front right.
 

clbsquared

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#4
Right rear corner of the cab. Just to the right of the radio. There is a power/ground connection as well as a coax with a PL-259 end on it. There is also a metal plate behind the headliner for mounting a bracket. Be careful when drilling through the plate and attaching the bracket with screws. There is a bundle of wires that run across the back side of the plate for the JD Link and the radio, mirror, and rear wiper controls. It's best to pull the FM radio out for a better view. To get to the coax and power cable, just remove the rear post liner from the top down. The cable and wires should fall right out.

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clbsquared

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#5
There is a section in the tractors user manual that pertains to business band radios.

Also, if you are installing a VHF radio, ditch the 1/4 wave and install a gain antenna if they are using Greenstar with a 3000 series receiver and RTK. The interference from the two way will kick out the RTK signal on certain VHF frequencies.

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#8
I did 3 of them. The new (brand new) 4wd had the coax in the back right corner post, but no power cable. I did not tear the FM radio pod down to check, because the book and internet said it was in the post. I just buried the power cable in the rubber trim down to the factory power pod and hooked up with female spades.

The 4wd and Sprayer cabs are a few years old, and both of them had the coax and a switched power lead laying in the FM radio pod. Made it real easy. And they leave the plate to right of the FM above the headliner all clear, so you can put self tappers right in for the bracket.

Worked out well. I did have to end up putting a different antenna mount on the older 4wd, something was wrong with the factory one, and it was much easier to replace than try to get to it. I used a Stainless mirror mount NMO on the grab rail in back of the cab. Works great.
 

clbsquared

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#9
I did 3 of them. The new (brand new) 4wd had the coax in the back right corner post, but no power cable. I did not tear the FM radio pod down to check, because the book and internet said it was in the post. I just buried the power cable in the rubber trim down to the factory power pod and hooked up with female spades.

The 4wd and Sprayer cabs are a few years old, and both of them had the coax and a switched power lead laying in the FM radio pod. Made it real easy. And they leave the plate to right of the FM above the headliner all clear, so you can put self tappers right in for the bracket.

Worked out well. I did have to end up putting a different antenna mount on the older 4wd, something was wrong with the factory one, and it was much easier to replace than try to get to it. I used a Stainless mirror mount NMO on the grab rail in back of the cab. Works great.
I'm curious to know which model was the newer one that didn't give you a power supply. Sometimes they'll tape it to the corner post. Should be about an 18 awg positive and ground wire with a small black connector on it.

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#10
There is a section in the tractors user manual that pertains to business band radios.

Also, if you are installing a VHF radio, ditch the 1/4 wave and install a gain antenna if they are using Greenstar with a 3000 series receiver and RTK. The interference from the two way will kick out the RTK signal on certain VHF frequencies.

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I know the VHF stuff is a pain sometimes, I hate doing those in these machines, especially because these guys are on VHF simplex most of the time, and need 50 watts to use them.

Most of what I do is UHF, and usually set them down to 20-25 watts because they are hitting repeaters, or doing simplex just in the field they are in. Trucks, I suggest 40 watts. The worst for me is the combines, the factory mount is in a decent place on the front left corner of the cab roof (Case IH at least) but still have reflected power issues with the bin extensions up, about the best I can get is 25 out and 5 back. I turned that one down to 15 watts. Can't use a gain antenna, much too high, it will get ripped off.
 

clbsquared

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#11
I'm curious to know which model was the newer one that didn't give you a power supply. Sometimes they'll tape it to the corner post. Should be about an 18 awg positive and ground wire with a small black connector on it.

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Also, I've never been very fond of John Deere's idea of an NMO mount. They put it on an all plastic roof which forces you to either create a ground plane or use a NGP antenna.

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#12
Also, I've never been very fond of John Deere's idea of an NMO mount. They put it on an all plastic roof which forces you to either create a ground plane or use a NGP antenna.

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But they run a 6” ground strap from the shield side to the front post…but it is best to utilize NGP if you can fit the clearance requirements especially for VHF (everyone near me utilizes SMR Systems so they are all typically in UHF or 800 MHz).

On most of the 8100 and 8300 series tractors I’ve installed on, I’ve found the power and the coax in the radio pod. Strippers are a little different…as I’ve typically mounted using angle brackets and been able to easily get to the 12V supply.


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#13
I'm curious to know which model was the newer one that didn't give you a power supply. Sometimes they'll tape it to the corner post. Should be about an 18 awg positive and ground wire with a small black connector on it.

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Brand new 9230. The radio power may have been in the am/fm pod, but it was much larger and had other stuff in it too, and I did not want to take it down only to chance not finding the power lead there either and wasting time.
 
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