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NOOB 06 Trailblazer mobile install

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KC9ZNV

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KC9ZNV, that actually is a NMO. That setup there is a Tram 5/8 wave VHF antenna (3 dBd gain, haven't tested myself though) with a NMO fender bracket. Both of which can be found at the antenna farm.


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Ah so one does exist. I even asked in the net last weekend. No one knew of any but they might have had a supplier i have to go visit. I want to try my mfj-1422 dual band (144/440) first. Its nmo and uhf. I just am kind of worried that it could buckle the hood. I suppose it could "egg" out the hole in the fender as well. If the 1422 doesnt work the 1532 should at around 10" longer. I suppose thats where the experiments start. I can use my mag mount to start out while fine tuning that.

It supposed to be above 20° this weekend so maybe I can spend a little more time looking at the hood and fender. I was also thinking of another radio down the line either a 10 meter or cb. Either way im going to have to be creative and think things through before I get to carried away.

Thanks again.

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Project25_MASTR

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I've got a trunk lip mount (that I repurposed for not a trunk lip) on my Cherokee with a Larsen NMO27B antenna on it. I currently have it tuned to CB but it can be tuned to 10m. You can see it sticking up in the pic I showed you earlier. Overall it's about the same height as the VHF antenna on the hood of my Trailblazer (it's a slightly shorter whip after being tuned and slightly taller loading coil) but it is also a NMO mount (though you could always go with the standard 1/2" hole 3/8"x24 mount ham sticks and normal CB antennas use.

Here is a closer picture of that loading coil on the NMO 27.
69D46716-893A-40D1-A42A-527AD525E700_zpsrw7opyce.jpg


Here are some links to the brackets…
Hood Channel Bracket

I advise using an existing body/fender bolt (you might have to drill the bracket out a little larger) and then drilling it in with self tapping screws then replacing those with the sheet metal screws the bracket comes with.
 

KC9ZNV

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Interesting ill look into it. Im still torn between a lip mount at a hard mount. It might be nice not to have to remove the antenna to oprn the hood. Thanks!

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vagrant

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I have a 2004 Trailblazer. The power for the radio is connected to the box under the rear seat behind the driver. (Pull the plastic cover off. You will not miss the big red wire.) The wiring is grounded to the chassis near there as well. I use power pole connectors for my gear. The radio itself sits underneath the rear passenger seat. I do not use the Onstar service/equipment, so I pulled it out. I have room to put the radio under there. On extended trips I put a Kenwood 480SAT and Kenwood D710 under the rear passenger seat and connect them with the power pole connectors. I set all of the radios to use APO (Auto Power Off) There might be a slight trickle drain, but nothing that I noticed. I use a Yaesu 7800 in that vehicle daily and a Diamond NR770HB antenna. Please note that antenna is meant for the Diamond K9000LRM motorized mount I have on the rack. While mine sits in the middle, could you mount it on the side? Another photo shows a Comet rack mount that is closer to the edge. What you cannot see is that it has a thumb screw to easily raise/lower an antenna. Both of those antenna mounts are grounded with a 5/8" ring connector heat shrinked wrapped to a wire and then I connected the other end of those wires to screws inside the rack rail.

While the heads of those Kenwood radios get mounted below the dash when in use, the Yaesu 7800 is simply fixed to the drivers visor using a couple pieces of velcro. I ran the wires down the drivers side column. One wire goes back under the rear passenger seat to the radio, while the other runs to the microphone you see in the photo. That Yaesu 7800 head does not weigh the visor down, as it is rather light. If I move the visor down, that head stays attached to it.

This first mount below is connected at the back right lift gate. I haven't added a ground yet and the SWR did not like it at 1.5:1 VHF and 1.9:1 UHF. It's functional and it will hit repeaters around here all day long with 5 watts and that NR770HB antenna, but it does not work as well as either of the rack mounts that are grounded and offer a better ground plane with their locations. I use simplex often, so a higher antenna is needed. My SWR on either of those rack mounts barely nudged the meter using 50 watts on 2 meters it was 1:1. It may have moved it slightly more on UHF, but nothing worse than 1.1:1. I have even used an HT with 5 watts and pushed 70 watts out of an amplifier with either of those rack mounts with 1.1:1.

* The motorized Diamond mount is the one I use daily for VHF/UHF with the NR770HB antenna on it as I park inside a garage. That switch near the microphone is the Up/Down button for that mount.

Hopefully this provides you with some ideas/possibilities that will work for your specific needs.
 

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KC9ZNV

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Indeed you have. Both you and W5PKY skipped over the direct batter connection. I haven't order all $500 work of wiring and such yet so I may have to look at under the back seat. That is if I can figure out the rig runner issue.

I want ro be able to run the yellow lights and other little odd and ends. I will have to look at the wiring.

If niether of you have ecm issues or rfi it might be handy.

I've decided a amp is rather pointless with the max output of my radio is 50w and me eirp already being dangerous at 25w if my estamation is correct.

You bring up a great point about height. I run my mag mount for mt on the roof as its removable when I need to access the rack.

I don't want it that high as it hits every branch above my drive way and field paths. But higher is good.

The height and the design of the mfj antennas I like so much is where I get concerned with the mount. If I bump it on a branch or head into our wonderful 35 mph winds I dont want to damage the truck.

I still need the rack for hauling treestands and such so... that neat motorized deal is out. Ill have to see what the wires under the seat are rated for.

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Project25_MASTR

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I'm going to an Austin 500 C on mine. After nearly tearing the mount out of the roof (nearly having a can opener effect on the sheet metal) with the Comet (which wasn't a bad antenna) I'm done with the high profile stuff on the roof (I'd still run whips with base only coils). The 500C gives me the advantages of a dual band antenna that's only 19" tall (I make up for the loss in gain with a 75W VHF mobile, or at least some of it) with a 12" tall 900 MHz antenna up front.

By yellow lights do you mean some sort of strobes? If so, I can tell you what I was planning on doing as well as what I currently run.
 

KC9ZNV

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First I need to whine. I wish firestick made an nmo mount. But I suppose a bent mount is cheaper than a fender. The issue with your roof is something im trying to avoid. I smack my radio antenna on wooded trails all of the time. Im looking for a fishing pole rack for the inside roof of my tb for fishing polrs but I think ot could hold an antenba in a pinch too if I can't find something to make it easy. This is my daily driver and my hunting/camping/general use truck so adaptability comes into play.

I suppose I can just find a little antenna for hunting season but I want the big one around for the all of the other times. I'm just trying to find a mount that wont bend over under normal use with a 50" antenna. I haven't finished reading all of my antenna theory I've only been licensed since Aug. 2013. I just imagine that an antenna that looks over the top of the truck will help with omni direction.

By yellow lights do you mean some sort of strobes? If so, I can tell you what I was planning on doing as well as what I currently run.
yeah some sort. There is a local radio/light dealer that I can't find at the moment to find out draw info on them to see if my circuit is capable of handling it. I'm not sure if I need one because I took to much time with nims 700 for ares races to enroll in skywarn. Some of the local hams have lights for this but I haven't figured out if its needed and ive bothered my ares/races coordinator enough for now.

I know the led ones cost lots of money but wont run your battery dead in 20 min without idling the engine. I have to check WIDOT for laws on them as well.

Are you going big or small? I was thinking small.



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KC9ZNV

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Im also kind of thinking a 10 meter and or 11 meter (cb) radio as well. Im licensed gmrs as well so that might come in there somwhere as well.

Mounting locations are getting interesting. I keep safes under the front seats and mouning on the sided of the trans hump seams to invite spillled beverages.

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kc5uta

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Hi folks,

I am relatively new to HAM, I just received a brandy new Kenwood TM-V71A and I intend to mount this in my 2006 Chevy Trail Blazer.

I have a 2006 as well. On my setup, I have the d710 and a 480sat. Those are in the very back mounted against the passenger side cargo wall. Not much room in the front for the heads so I improvised. I sacrificed my driver front cup holder. I used a hole saw to cut some spacers out of plywood, to make it a level surface, and then mounted the control head bracket there. The gearshift does get a bit in the way for visibility , but not too bad. Antenna wise....sadly I went mag mount. A cushcraft dual bander I have had for near 10 years, but still works great, mounted just aft of the sunroof. That way I can (in a pinch) reach up and lay it down for clearence. All coax is ran to the back, and enters just behind passenger brake light assembly. No hole drilled!!! As for power...I ran some ridiculously heavy 6 or 8ga household utility wire direct from the battery (fused of course). Since you stated you use the rack, I won't get into the Tarheel two mount for HF. Good luck
 

Project25_MASTR

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yeah some sort. There is a local radio/light dealer that I can't find at the moment to find out draw info on them to see if my circuit is capable of handling it. I'm not sure if I need one because I took to much time with nims 700 for ares races to enroll in skywarn. Some of the local hams have lights for this but I haven't figured out if its needed and ive bothered my ares/races coordinator enough for now.

I know the led ones cost lots of money but wont run your battery dead in 20 min without idling the engine. I have to check WIDOT for laws on them as well.

Are you going big or small? I was thinking small.



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Well, here is what I currently run on my Trailblazer is a halogen dual rotator from star warning systems. It works, magnetic don't use it much.

What I'm upgrading to is this with the license plate adapter bracket
Sirennet SNL3SN

I was probably gonna throw one of these up on the bottom of the review mirror (internally)
Sirennet SNGL2

And then some solid state Sound Off headlight flashers (maybe tail light as well)

Either going to be all amber or blue/amber, haven't really decided and I need to look up a few more things before I do that.
 

KC9ZNV

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Interesting. These LEDs are more cost effective than the ones I found at the local hardware store. About an internal mount. Wouldn't that cause internal glare at night on the windshield?

I was just thinking a small magnetic that can be thrown up there during skywarn or ars/races activations.

I still need to find the DOT rules. WI is goofy about lights.

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KC9ZNV

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Best I can tell right from the website: https://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/statutes/statutes/347/II/25/2

(a) Any vehicle may be equipped with lamps which may be used for the purpose of warning the operators of other vehicles of the presence of a vehicular traffic hazard requiring the exercise of unusual care in approaching, overtaking or passing, and when so equipped may display such warning in addition to any other warning signals required by this section. The lamps used to display such warning to the front shall be mounted at the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable, and shall display simultaneously flashing white or amber lights, or any shade of color between white and amber. The lamps used to display such warning to the rear shall be mounted at the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable, and shall show simultaneously flashing amber or red lights, or any shade of color between amber and red. These warning lights shall be visible from a distance of not less than 500 feet under normal atmospheric conditions at night. Directional signals meeting the requirements of this chapter shall be used or lamps meeting these requirements, mounted so as to comply with turn signal installation.

So.. Those little buggers may be the ticket compared to the single stobe guys slap on their plow trucks and plug into the cigar lighter.

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Project25_MASTR

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There are some grille options as well. It doesn't say you can't use headlight flashers either. I've seen sirennet wire the taillight flashers to flash the brake and turn signals instead of the brake and reverse.

I'll probably go straight amber but due to my ties and occasional employment by TxDOT I could get away with blue/amber.

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RRR

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I would make dang sure what you have mounted on the dash and above the visor is really securely mounted, because if you are in a wreck, and they aren't bolted down or at least bail strapped securely, you can rest assured they will come loose and find their way to your noggin' at a high velocity.
 

KC9ZNV

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Okay, being almost 50° I set out to figure out how to install the radio.

When I looked at the passenger side seat it looked flat. Its not, and thats what happens near dark in 10° temps.

Everything is okay except I will cover up what I believe is an air bag sensor. Unless it needs to be serviced it shouldn't be a problem short of egress from the radio.

My intent is to fabricate a strip of aluminum and attatch it under the seat via the riser bolts. I would just bolt the riser down onto it and then attatch a sheet on top of that. That is where my radio, powerguard, and auxillery lighter outlet will go as well.

This would work as somewhat of a heat sink. I also hope it will be some type of faraday to keep egress out of the air bag system. No boom boom. I hope. The antenna cable and nmo connector are from a reputable local radio install joint.

The only hard part is how to secure the front of the sheet down. Another strip just under the riser? The sheet I picked up is thin as to allow for the riser to fit and me to not raise my liability to a great extent inbthe event im in a collision and I modified the seat.

Any ideas on the faraday or any other spot? I dont want to take out the box for the radio and onstar and I can't get the radio to fit anywhere except directly attatched to what I think is the body control module below the blower motor.

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KC9ZNV

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Okay, I started the install last Thursday and spent all of Friday on the install.

Im dodging rain drops today and only had one major set back yesterday. I took pictures and video so I will post stuff when I finish upbthis weekend except for the antenna. My fender bracket came up short so I need to find a different one.

I will try contacting pro.fit again to see if the colorado mount will work. The coax is there but not connected to anything.

Puting stuff away, programming the radio and mounting the bat wing com speakers are on my agenda.


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