PL-259 (solder type)

[acyddrop]

I just wanted to say while, these are somewhat annoying, and the risk of burning your coax shield (and your hand) is relatively high. They are far less annoying than crimp on connectors, especially with LMR-400 and the braid ends fraying all over. Though after doing two just now, I think the next time I do them I'll take George Thomas's advice (W5JDX) and use rosin flux on everything. I only had a chisel tip iron in 100w format, I think I'll invest in a chisel tip for my 60w next time I do this because 100w really is just WAY too much heat I think (the outer jacket on one side melted a tad, which was my first hint). I have the tools for the crimp type (had them since forever ago) but this was my first crack at the solder type and they are much easier to do I think. Just make sure your connectors are silver plated, and you tin the braid and the conductor before you start. Don't use the cheap Radio Shack ones, you want Teflon insulators so they don't melt and if your connector is silver plated it'll go much easier.

 

[gewecke]

If you learn how, your can solder a pl259 with only a 25w pencil iron and a little rosin core flux with out toasting fingers or melting anything!

73,
n9zas

 

[acyddrop]

The secret is the rosin flux goop, that stuff just sucks up solder like a sponge.

If you learn how, your can solder a pl259 with only a 25w pencil iron and a little rosin core flux with out toasting fingers or melting anything!

73,
n9zas

 

[gewecke]

*Delete*




73,
n9zas

 

[majoco]

We have PL259's here where the barrel where you insert the cable has a very coarse thread. Strip off the outer insulation for about an inch and lay the braid back over the outer. Strip the inner leaving about 1/4" insulation. Tin the centre conductor. Insert into the barrel and turn clockwise - make sure the centre conductor is going into the pin - keep on turning until the centre conductor insulation is visible in the spy holes - by now the tinned centre conductor should be poking out of the pin - solder. Cut of any braid left out of the barrel. Finished.

UHF PL259 Plug For RG58 - Jaycar Electronics

 

[mancow]

I can never solder those things without incinerating the whole assembly. How are you supposed to heat that much metal without melting the coax?

 

[acyddrop]

They have those for LMR-400 (RG-213, RG-8, etc). I have those, but I much prefer the solder type thanks.

We have PL259's here where the barrel where you insert the cable has a very coarse thread. Strip off the outer insulation for about an inch and lay the braid back over the outer. Strip the inner leaving about 1/4" insulation. Tin the centre conductor. Insert into the barrel and turn clockwise - make sure the centre conductor is going into the pin - keep on turning until the centre conductor insulation is visible in the spy holes - by now the tinned centre conductor should be poking out of the pin - solder. Cut of any braid left out of the barrel. Finished.

UHF PL259 Plug For RG58 - Jaycar Electronics

 

[acyddrop]

Well the real secret is to smear everything with rosin solder flux, this is from Jameco I dunno if you can find it for less somewhere else? Probably...

CAIG DeoxIT® Rosin Flux Soldering Paste | eBay

Smear that on your braid, the holes in the PL-259, etc etc. Tin up your braid, then slide the lot into the connector, solder everything up. The heat of the solder will draw up the hot solder into the cold tube when doing the conductor. You can tin that too (especially if your center conductor is stranded)....

I unfortunately didn't have any of that solder flux due to my incredible impatience and just went ahead and didn't use any extra flux just what was in the core of my solder. Make sure you tin the braid and the center conductor, insert into connector, solder. It will get stupidly hot so make sure that 1) Your connector is silver plated and 2) The center insulator is Teflon so it doesn't melt. The center insulator will deform (I'm sure it does if you use flux too) that's inevitable but it's fairly heat resistant (at least my LMR-400 insulation was). The jacket however is not heat resistant at all.To make sure you haven't made a complete hash of it, pull out your trusty ohm meter.

I can never solder those things without incinerating the whole assembly. How are you supposed to heat that much metal without melting the coax?

 

[gewecke]

A 25 watt pencil and this is all you need, and you won't melt a thing ( as long as you don't leave the tip on there til lunch!)

73,
n9zas

 

[n4yek]

Hint: pre-tin the connector before you put your coax into it. When you put your coax into it then just apply solder to the braid and melt the solder on the connector, simple. Done it for years that way.

 

[LtDoc]

The biggest 'secret' in soldering PL-259s onto coax is knowing how to solder to start with. It's also a very good idea to understand just how that connector is supposed to fit onto coax and making 'fit'. It really is that simple! Of course, the 'doing' of both of those thingys isn't all that simple at all. It takes time to accumulate the required experience, discovering the little 'qwerks'/foibles associated with the 'doing' of it.
Expect mistakes! Everybody makes them, doesn't matter how long you've done it.
I have a favorite brand of Pl-259 connectors, they've been around forever. They make several variety of those 'PL-259s. I've found that (for me) the older ones, with the 'bakelite' insulators, are much easier to use/re-use and perform just fine. They aren't heat sensitive much, and at HF/VHF/UHF, in normal service, are as good as anything else. They aren't all that easy to find anymore, they are 'old fashioned'.
I've found that if I just get one of whatever I need, it's almost a guarantee that I'll break it, ruin it or it'll get lost. Having more than just the number you need is nice.
Rosin core solder is also nice (or having a 5 gallon bucket of it).
A variable temperature soldering iron is also nice, and so is a torch (believe it or not).
And the nicest thingy is knowing how to use all that stuff...
- 'Doc

 

[kb2vxa]

Fold the braid back over the jacket? Just how to you expect to get the connector on with the added thickness of the braid? Anyway, first thing you need is a strip chart to put any connector on or better yet a coax stripping tool. Next you need a hot iron with a good heat sink so it won't go cold forcing you to keep it applied to the work too long and overheat the connector, I use a 100W Hexicon industrial iron designed for sheet metal work and a dab of rosin flux here and there, just a dab mind you. If it takes more than one second to solder any part of it you're doing it wrong.

I hate cheap plastic insulators that always melt causing the center pin to drift, Teflon is expensive overkill when good old fashioned Steatite (mistaken for bakelite) has served well since it was invented. Silver plating adds nothing really, if the connector is clean and free of oxidation it takes solder easily. Speaking of clean, I can't stress enough the importance of clean, bright copper when it comes to soldering braid or anything else. Flux will not clean it for you, its only purpose is to keep air out during soldering so the work won't oxidize from heat so be sure the braid is clean and bright before you begin, if not fine sandpaper applied lightly so the braid doesn't splay does the trick.

One last note, be sure you put the screw on part with the threads facing the end of the coax before you begin or you'll have done such a wonderful job of soldering only to find something missing or looking at you backward. What the...? &#))$@*&!!! Yeah, that's a picture of me learning to solder by trial and error, mostly error.

 

[gewecke]

Warren I didn't know you wore glasses?


73,
n9zas

 

[n0ypd]

haha,funny cartoon