Powering Multiple Radios in a Vehicle

[mesoman]

What is the best way to power multiple scanners and/or ham radios in a mobile via the vehicle battery?? Is it possible or safe to use a DC power strip with multiple posts, that is connected to the battery?


Thanks,

Brian

 

[Voyager]

What is the best way to power multiple scanners and/or ham radios in a mobile via the vehicle battery?? Is it possible or safe to use a DC power strip with multiple posts, that is connected to the battery?

It's a little expensive but WELL worth every penny. If you get the switched model, all your radios will turn on when you turn the 'master' on, too. By 'master', I mean the radio you have defined as the 'master'.

http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm

Joe M.

 

[Grog]

Whenever I do a complete overhaul in my truck, I'm going with this.

http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm

I'll be running several types of equipment and am finally going to standardize on the powerpole.

 

[Grog]

I should have typed faster :lol:

 

[N_Jay]

What is the best way to power multiple scanners and/or ham radios in a mobile via the vehicle battery?? Is it possible or safe to use a DC power strip with multiple posts, that is connected to the battery?


Thanks,

Brian

Got to an auto parts store and pick up a small fuse block.

Then you can put the proper size fuse in for each radio and run the whoile thing from a good heavy wire from teh battery.

I would also put a fusable link within a foot of the battery, just to be safe.

 

[nd5y]

I use these:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm
I have a 4005 in my vehicle and a 4012 in the shack.
The RIGrunners have Andersen Powerpole connectors that you can get here:
http://www.powerwerx.com
However I think I bought all of mine & the RIGrunners at hamfests.

I also made several cigarette lighter socket/Powerpole adapter cables.

Tom

 

[Voyager]

I should have typed faster :lol:

I beat ya by 3 WHOLE milliseconds :!: Seriously - as soon as I entered my post, yours was there by the time the page refreahed (and I'm on broadband).

I think the consensus is pretty overwhelming - get a RigRunner. NJ has obviously never used them. They have the standard power connection on them so you can plug right in to just about anything that is using the standard, and each outlet is fused WITH an LED to indicate which fuse is blown should one to out. The switched model works great - jsut be sure to put an appropriate fuse in line. Too large and it won't see the drop across it to turn the other outlets on. I have several of these and will be getting more as I rebuild installations with multiple radios/scanners/sirens/Etc.

As NJ said, put a fuse near the battery even though the input of the RR is fused.

I get my PowerPoles from http://www.hamstop.com - best price I've found on them. I order them by the hundreds.

Joe M.

 

[N_Jay]

I should have typed faster :lol:

I beat ya by 3 WHOLE milliseconds :!: Seriously - as soon as I entered my post, yours was there by the time the page refreahed (and I'm on broadband).

I think the consensus is pretty overwhelming - get a RigRunner. NJ has obviously never used them. They have the standard power connection on them so you can plug right in to just about anything that is using the standard, and each outlet is fused WITH an LED to indicate which fuse is blown should one to out. The switched model works great - jsut be sure to put an appropriate fuse in line. Too large and it won't see the drop across it to turn the other outlets on. I have several of these and will be getting more as I rebuild installations with multiple radios/scanners/sirens/Etc.

As NJ said, put a fuse near the battery even though the input of the RR is fused.

I get my PowerPoles from http://www.hamstop.com - best price I've found on them. I order them by the hundreds.

Joe M.

Holy molie, you want to pay $50 to $120 for what you can do for under $10.

I'm in the wrong business. I need to be building accessories for Scanner Heads! :wink:

Man, that stuff is just HamSexy! :wink:

 

[mesoman]

Thanks for the info and links!! That is what I will go with. Is it best to mount these under the hood or inside the vehicle?

 

[N_Jay]

Thanks for the info and links!! That is what I will go with. Is it best to mount these under the hood or inside the vehicle?

I don't see anywhere where it says it is waterproof.

Guess it has to be inside the cab.

 

[Voyager]

Thanks for the info and links!! That is what I will go with. Is it best to mount these under the hood or inside the vehicle?

Inside. Run one heave lead to the battery and keep the runs to the radios short.

Remember - the farther you mount it from the radios, the more wire will be required (increasing the chance of a bad wire, shorts, Etc.)

I am thinking under the seat may work well in many of my applications. Just remember you will want it somewhat accessible in case a fuse blows.

At home, I have it under the desk at the top of the leg area toward the back. Actually, I should say I have THEM mounted there, as I have several.

Joe M.

 

[Dubbin]

Remember - the farther you mount it from the radios, the more wire will be required

LOL do you really think you had to add that one

 

[Voyager]

Holy molie, you want to pay $50 to $120 for what you can do for under $10.

I'm in the wrong business. I need to be building accessories for Scanner Heads! :wink:

I did forget to mention that the switched models have the switch to select all on, all off, or automatic with the master unit.

Where can I buy a PowerPole strip that has automatic switched 40A outputs (with override on or off) and individual fuses with LEDs to indicate which is blown and has no exposed B+ contacts for under $10?

If it's not using PowerPoles, you just blew the standard connector unless you add yet MORE connectors (which increases the chances of a bad one). If it's not switched, you have to turn on each radio separately (worth $100 over many years). Without the LEDs, you will have to look at each fuse to see which is blown, and without the fuses, you will be looking for the fuse connectors in each line (been there - done that - saved a lot of headaches with the RigRunners). If the unit is not capible of at least 20A, I wouldn't recommend using it with a mobile radio. If it's got exposed contacts you have to tape up, that is yet another issue that can short, spark, or become a pain to untape to check the connections.

If you can make the same thing with the same quality (or better) for less money, I'll send sales your way as well as buy several myself.

Joe M.

 

[Voyager]

Remember - the farther you mount it from the radios, the more wire will be required

LOL do you really think you had to add that one

Well, many people WON'T consider that mounting a RR with a 10 foot run to the battery and a 3 foot run for the radios will use 40 feet of wire for 10 radios, but the same setup mounted 5 feet from the radios with an 8 foot run to the battery will use 58 feet of wire. That's 18 FEET more wire for a TWO FOOT mounting change. No, most people wouldn't think that far ahead. I've done enough installs to know how to make it as efficient as possible.

You weren't thinking simplistic that a longer run requires a LONGER wire, were you? :lol: That's not what I meant, as you can see from above. I guess I should have explained it in more detail. The farther you mount the RR from the radios, the more wire will be required exponentially the greater the number of radios that are running off of it.

Make the battery run with very heavy wire to minimize losses, and use short runs of the more lossy smaller line to the radios. That will maximize voltage and current capacity to all the radios.

Joe M.

 

[Grog]

Holy molie, you want to pay $50 to $120 for what you can do for under $10.

I'm in the wrong business. I need to be building accessories for Scanner Heads! :wink:

Sometimes it's best to do it right the 1st time. With the investment in radio gear & the vehicles themselves, what's a few extra dollars to do it right :mrgreen:

 

[N_Jay]

Holy molie, you want to pay $50 to $120 for what you can do for under $10.

I'm in the wrong business. I need to be building accessories for Scanner Heads! :wink:

Sometimes it's best to do it right the 1st time. With the investment in radio gear & the vehicles themselves, what's a few extra dollars to do it right :mrgreen:

I would agree. There is "Right", but there is also "Excessive"! :wink:

No binding posts, no spliced wires, but a automotive fuse block works just fine 99% of the time.

I would put the extra $100 into equipment that impacts performance directly. Radio, Antennam and Line!

 

[Mozilla]

Blocks

N_Jay mentioned the auto parts store, and I 'll throw in this..try a Marine store or go online ...West Marine is a good one... You will find blocks, fused distribution blocks, panels etc. Also waterproof items such as distribution boxes, fuse holders etc. I use a combo of both auto and marine or direct purchase from supply houses for many of the installs and I do some weird ones, last 2 where a pair of ATVS and a Wave Runner.

 

[Grog]

If you have alot of boating supply stores around, that might be better if you want to do the homebrew route. You know it should be water-resistant , plus the stuff I see at the auto supply stores makes me cringe because of the quality.

 

[akardam]

If you have alot of boating supply stores around, that might be better if you want to do the homebrew route. You know it should be water-resistant

I'll second that. The main problem I have with power pole products is that every once in a while one of mine will wiggle loose. I prefer screw-down terminals, myself

Go down to your local West Marine, BoatsUS, or small mom and pop chandlery and check out their stuff. I highly recommend the electrical components from Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/). I've used their products quite a bit with my truck's radio systems and have always been very pleased with them.

 

[Voyager]

The main problem I have with power pole products is that every once in a while one of mine will wiggle loose. I prefer screw-down terminals, myself

The only time I've had that happen, I traced it back to a connector that was not properly seated or a contact that was not properly seated. There are some crimp tools that are really poor at crimping the terminals - they bend the contact part. You also have to make sure they are inserted into the shell completely. That is another common mistake that will cause a loose connection.

A properly crimped and seated connector should offer some resistance when put together and should 'snap' into place when inserted completely.

There are also pins that will hold the shells together (next to each other) and hold two connectors together, but I've seldom found that necessary (see above).

I've also seen other types of connectors put together poorly. A pair of pliers or wire cutters are NOT the proper tool to use on crimp connectors of ANY kind. The RIGHT tool for the proper job or you risk problems!

Joe M.