Replace BNC connector with N Connector

[FlaFyrKat]

I was thinking about replacing the existing BNC connector on one of my Uniden scanners with a N connector to keep the receiving system consistent without using adapters which create loss since the Austin Ferret antenna terminates with an N connector & I wanted to upgrade my coax to 1/2" heliax also for improved sensitivity, anybody here ever change your scanner BNC for an N or even a SO-239?

 

[jim202]

I don't think you will find the space to mount a type N connector on the radio. Just trying to make the large hole and drilling the holes for the mounting screws, you have a very good chance of doing damage to the radio.

You would be much better off using a short, 1 foot or so jumper cable to go between the radio and your larger cox. Plus being much smaller and flexible, it wouldn't cause the radio to be positioned by the larger cable. You can't bend the larger coax with sharp bends.

The losses you would insert are not that much that it would effect the receiver's ability to pick up signals. Do what everyone else does and use the short flexible jumper.

 

[k1agh]

What scanner? It may be possible if the scanner has the room.

 

[buddrousa]

Just for your information a N Male connector will go on a BNC Female just by pushing it on with no loss.
I have done that with service monitors several times test equipment. This should work good if your scanner stays in one place and not moved.

 

[n0nhp]

I think that you are setting yourself up for a very expensive disappointment.
Eliminating the adapter will relieve some of the mechanical pressure on the scanner BNC but will not (unless you are using a very poor quality adapter) increase signal transfer. The input to wideband receivers are not a constant impedance.
Unless your coax run is extremely long the fractional dB loss in a length of RG 6 / 8 / heliax will be totally un-noticeable.

However that is what the hobby is all about.
Feel free to experiment and document your results so others can learn as well.

Bruce

 

[krokus]

+1 on the suggestion to use a jumper. The change over would be unnecessary effort and expense, with negligible benefit.

Sent via Tapatalk

 

[mmckenna]

+ 2 on the jumper.
If you plan on using anything bigger than RG-6, RG-59/58 or LMR240, you won't want to connect directly to the radio. ESPECIALLY if you want to use 1/2" heliax. The extra strain on the coaxial connector on your radio -will- damage something.
The standard practice in the industry is to terminate your heavy coaxial cable run near the radio, and then use a short flexible jumper to connect the main feedline to the radio. This takes strain off the connectors. This jumper could handle the N to BNC conversion easily, and won't require any radio modification.

And,I'll agree, unless your run is really long, or you are listening in to frequencies well above 1GHz, you won't see a very noticeable improvement in your received signal.

Absolutely, use the best you can. If you can afford 1/2" heliax, then by all means go for it, but for most monitoring uses, it's overkill.
You could also look at LMR-600. More flexible than heliax and similar loss numbers. Should be a bit cheaper, too.

 

[FlaFyrKat]

Geez, What Was I Thinking?

For maximum effect while reading my post ,cue in "What Was I Thinking?" by Dierks Bentley.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAzp8FXA-FQ


Well gents after reading your very informative replies I decided to open it (BCT-8) up & see just how much room I had to maneuver with in this endeavor, well you guys are right, NO WAY would that work, there is absolutely "ZERO" space in that box except to maybe install a discriminator tap by an experienced solder man with rock steady hands & a hard eye, well live & learn, again, thanks for your very informative replies, time, patience & consideration.

 

[k4fv]

N Connector

Back in the day I modified a Uniden 780 to replace the BNC with an N connector. A little time and some careful drilling resulted in a clean installation. Would I do it again? No. It wasn't worth the effort. I was running LMR-400 with N connectors trying to optimize my reception. Just use adapters or a patch cable. You won't notice the difference.

Neil
K4FV

 

[mmckenna]

There gets to be a point where chassis punches are a much better option than twist drills.

I changed out the "motorola" type connectors on some old Bearcat 560's with BNC's, but that was a lot easier. That's one place where changing the connector made a difference. Not so much for reception, but just for keeping the dang thing in place.

 

[Voyager]

Quality adapters will have negligible loss. It again falls into the "not worth it" category to change the connector. It may also devalue the scanner for resale.

 

[wtp]

range

bnc - 0 to 4 gig
n - 0 to 11 gig
how high up did you need to go?
bnc leaves you with more options.
on rare occasion i use an 800 yagi with an n connector to an f to 6ft of rg6 to f to bnc, busy but it works.

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

There gets to be a point where chassis punches are a much better option than twist drills.

I changed out the "motorola" type connectors on some old Bearcat 560's with BNC's, but that was a lot easier. That's one place where changing the connector made a difference. Not so much for reception, but just for keeping the dang thing in place.

Ditto - loved my BC210XLT, hated the plug connector.

 

[majoco]

Mr. Moderator - please relocate this if you think it's in the wrong place.

maybe install a discriminator tap by an experienced solder man with rock steady hands & a hard eye,

I've just done that with a BCT8. It's probably not quite a discriminator tap but it sure makes the audio sound a lot better and it works for pocsag, satellite pix and other digital stuff.

You'll need an RCA phono socket chassis mount with a nut and two washers, about 6" of fine insulated wire and an electrolytic capacitor 10uF 16volts.

Take the bottom cover off and disconnect the speaker by pulling on the white plastic connector and release the wire from the loop of black plastic coated metal..

You'll need an RCA phono socket chassis mount with a nut and two washers, about 6" of fine insulated wire and an electrolytic capacitor 10uF 16volts.

On the bottom right hand side below the D connector there is just space to drill a 1/4" hole to take the socket, the two washers and the nut. If you are really lucky, the bracket underneath will jam against one the flats on the nut and you can tighten it very well with a pair of multi-grips. There is no need for the grounding solder tag. Cover the PC board with a paper towel and put grease on the drill bit to catch the swarf. I prefer to drill a small pilot hole then open it up with a tapered reamer.

Shorten the positive lead of the capacitor and make a loop in that lead. Shorten the negative lead and make a hook in it.Hook the negative lead to the centre tag of the nut and solder. If you want to be really professional, secure the capacitor to the side panel with non-acid cure silicon sealant.

Get a look at the square green printed circuit board attached to the back of the volume control. You'll see four solder blobs in a square, three blobs in a line and eight in a line along the edge. You're going to attach one end of your wire to the bottom one of the group of three, the one nearest the line of eight. Strip about 1/4" off the end of your wire, tin it with very little solder then cut 1/8" off. Make a very small hook in the end. Wearing your best glasses place the hook over the solder blob and heat it just enough for the solder to flow - don't add any more solder!.

Run the wire back to the capacitor, measure it's length and cut off the excess, strip the end 1/4", tin it, make a hook and solder it into the loop you made in the negative lead. Dress the wire down the side of the PC board against the metalwork. Done, inspect and test.