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Say Again Driver...
- Thread starter jcrmadden
- Start date
Guy wants to know why he can't hear more than a couple hundred yards.
That's the easy part.
Now he wants me to fix it.
That's the hard part.
Composite cab, West Coast mirrors, and log wall (giant headache rack) the new variables for me.
Where's that experienced hand?
That's the easy part.
Now he wants me to fix it.
That's the hard part.
Composite cab, West Coast mirrors, and log wall (giant headache rack) the new variables for me.
Where's that experienced hand?
niceguy71
Active Member
it's truly amazing how there are millions of big trucks on the road and 50% have a CB in them.... but 99% of those millions of trucks are fiberglass and have a little 3 foot antenna bolted to the mirror????.... I don't see that going more than a few miles if that.
maybe that is all they need to talk to the scale house /shipping office???
on my YouTube page where I show handheld CB's and what they can do..... a guy bought a Midland 75-822 and was asking me what he should use for an antenna on his Freightliner truck..... I told him I wouldn't even know where to start with a fiberglass truck.
I wonder if Fiberglass trucks is what killed CB usage?
imagine if there were millions of trucks on the road that could talk for 8 to 10 miles? it would be a better hobby.
maybe that is all they need to talk to the scale house /shipping office???
on my YouTube page where I show handheld CB's and what they can do..... a guy bought a Midland 75-822 and was asking me what he should use for an antenna on his Freightliner truck..... I told him I wouldn't even know where to start with a fiberglass truck.
I wonder if Fiberglass trucks is what killed CB usage?
imagine if there were millions of trucks on the road that could talk for 8 to 10 miles? it would be a better hobby.
KD8DVR
Member
Insurance companies killed CB.
My employer purchases new Kenworth trucks for the movement of cargo across the country.......we get them with a fiberglass antenna mounted to a mirror, but purchase our own Cobra 29 LTD Classic radio. A second antenna is on the other mirror, which is AM/FM. You never know which one is the CB antenna as they look the same......but the CB antenna has the adjustment screw under the plastic cap.
This combination is terrible, as the antenna is the cheapest Kenworth could find, the Cobra CB itself is not what they used to sell 30 years ago, cheap plastic garbage.
I run a President radio and Astatic microphone.
As for semi tractors, it would be wise to have the CB on the drivers side, shortest cable run, into a good radio......enough metal for a ground plane, and a better microphone than what is often included.
I'll add in a Firestik antenna, even a three foot one, better radio, better mic....and clean installation.....no botched antenna connector, will get a few miles down the road. Then, train that driver to know how to use the setting for mic gain, RF Gain, Delta Tune, etc......that is not taught anymore as well.
This combination is terrible, as the antenna is the cheapest Kenworth could find, the Cobra CB itself is not what they used to sell 30 years ago, cheap plastic garbage.
I run a President radio and Astatic microphone.
As for semi tractors, it would be wise to have the CB on the drivers side, shortest cable run, into a good radio......enough metal for a ground plane, and a better microphone than what is often included.
I'll add in a Firestik antenna, even a three foot one, better radio, better mic....and clean installation.....no botched antenna connector, will get a few miles down the road. Then, train that driver to know how to use the setting for mic gain, RF Gain, Delta Tune, etc......that is not taught anymore as well.
If so, it's a shame. Truckers are more than capable of using a CB and driving safely. It was cellphones that turned distracted driving into an epidemic.
slowmover
Active Member
This is a near-identical spec to what I drove in the oilfield circa 2012-2015. Peterbilt 367
It’s where I had custom install of my first Big Radio (Galaxy 99v2 plus KL203) with a pair of WILSON 2000 antennas on the West Coast style arms. Nearly new tractor; coax leading out same as your example.
I had those antennas on HUSTLER QD. Not recommended your example. Find height and mount (next) can be tilted forward to 15-degrees ballpark maximum. Loctite on mount bolts once tuned.
The rest of this assumes the owner will be present and of help:
Antenna
4.5’ SKIPSHOOTER Top Load (Clear cover) as start point. It'll be tradeoff of total height versus clearance he needs for work. I’d look to 13’, maybe some more. Maybe 4’.
Always order two (2)
Mirror arm is different, but I don’t think that matters. AM/FM antenna center-roof.
Mirror may-should have wiring for Heat and Power Adjustment.
Composite hood with metal cab. Can’t remember sleeper material.
No changes to antenna past cutting whip for SWR by a highly experienced tech using an MFJ-259.
We had tall aluminum pneumatic one or two hopper trailers. Silo-load and offload at drill rig or oilfield service company yard silos using PTO blower behind cab.
forums.radioreference.com
Antenna Mount
The mounts were of this type:
DRX-3402
— Assuming you’ll do only one antenna; on drivers side (E-Z to keep an eye on and less likely to get driven up under something).
You know I’m sold on this brand. It’s just a bit better than the parent company standard line.
RF BOND mirror arms will be below.
Antenna Spring
Post in thread 'Mobile Antenna: PRESIDENT Texas 1800'
Mobile Antenna: PRESIDENT Texas 1800
Coax
Cut and remove old. Strip cover (carefully, don’t nick shield), save shield for RF Case Bonds.
DRX-1509 (measure from farthest outboard point one can install mount; door open). If coax is 5-years or older.
Reason to get mount farthest outboard is to avoid “reflect” from all that metal. You’ll be playing with this part awhile. Mount location & tilt will be slowest part of install. FME-ended coax is easy to use, but you don’t want to come up short. 12’ is not a penalty nor is 18’ if needed (assuming NRC radio with juice).
— Mock-up coax run with suitable diameter substitute going over open door. Tape in place as needed to assume 90-degree turns.. Add a bit.
You’ll want some 1/4”(?) split-loom conduit to encase coax. Rescue Tape self-fusing to go over PL259 (touch of blue Loctite) and a couple of layers of Scotch 88 (review @prcguy description of procedure re ANDREWS splice kit). Zip-ties every 4-6”.
— Run coax so that it won’t snag on anything; “behind” arm, for the most part. Also appearance.
(I’ll continue in another post).
.
It’s where I had custom install of my first Big Radio (Galaxy 99v2 plus KL203) with a pair of WILSON 2000 antennas on the West Coast style arms. Nearly new tractor; coax leading out same as your example.
I had those antennas on HUSTLER QD. Not recommended your example. Find height and mount (next) can be tilted forward to 15-degrees ballpark maximum. Loctite on mount bolts once tuned.
The rest of this assumes the owner will be present and of help:
Antenna
4.5’ SKIPSHOOTER Top Load (Clear cover) as start point. It'll be tradeoff of total height versus clearance he needs for work. I’d look to 13’, maybe some more. Maybe 4’.
Always order two (2)
Mirror arm is different, but I don’t think that matters. AM/FM antenna center-roof.
Mirror may-should have wiring for Heat and Power Adjustment.
Composite hood with metal cab. Can’t remember sleeper material.
No changes to antenna past cutting whip for SWR by a highly experienced tech using an MFJ-259.
We had tall aluminum pneumatic one or two hopper trailers. Silo-load and offload at drill rig or oilfield service company yard silos using PTO blower behind cab.
SKIPSHOOTER Antenna: Tuning Nail Rust & as Big Truck Default Choice.
SkipShooter® Mobile Antennas Have seen this question come up about rust. The SKIP SHOOTER antenna uses a common nail as the length-adjusting tip (held by an Allen screw). Yes, it will rust. I’ve used a Dremel to polish the nail to a fair shine and used FLITZ to finish. This seems to work well...
Antenna Mount
The mounts were of this type:
DRX-3402
— Assuming you’ll do only one antenna; on drivers side (E-Z to keep an eye on and less likely to get driven up under something).
You know I’m sold on this brand. It’s just a bit better than the parent company standard line.
RF BOND mirror arms will be below.
Antenna Spring
Post in thread 'Mobile Antenna: PRESIDENT Texas 1800'
Mobile Antenna: PRESIDENT Texas 1800
Coax
Cut and remove old. Strip cover (carefully, don’t nick shield), save shield for RF Case Bonds.
DRX-1509 (measure from farthest outboard point one can install mount; door open). If coax is 5-years or older.
Reason to get mount farthest outboard is to avoid “reflect” from all that metal. You’ll be playing with this part awhile. Mount location & tilt will be slowest part of install. FME-ended coax is easy to use, but you don’t want to come up short. 12’ is not a penalty nor is 18’ if needed (assuming NRC radio with juice).
— Mock-up coax run with suitable diameter substitute going over open door. Tape in place as needed to assume 90-degree turns.. Add a bit.
You’ll want some 1/4”(?) split-loom conduit to encase coax. Rescue Tape self-fusing to go over PL259 (touch of blue Loctite) and a couple of layers of Scotch 88 (review @prcguy description of procedure re ANDREWS splice kit). Zip-ties every 4-6”.
— Run coax so that it won’t snag on anything; “behind” arm, for the most part. Also appearance.
(I’ll continue in another post).
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
NMO Antenna
On reflection: I’ve pulled nearly every type trailer. But not ever logging.
“Antenna” should be a study of what you see. Lots of men don’t care much, so ask on radio about height clearance.
Latest with NMO30 & WD640 Whip & SpringB is that it’ll tune 11M at approximately 62” total height. This may be a stronger contender in terms of lasting.
— I haven’t researched NMO mount to adapt to mirror arm.
Stainless steel a better choice. Machine shop to adapt?
NMO27 & standard whip plus SpringB at approximately 49” total height.
Get measurement of from top of mirror arm confirmed; can be done on CAT SCALE. Drop plumb bob and tape length securely. Mark with Sharpie. Measure after off scale.
49” might be his “answer” assuming the rest is beyond what he had before.
.
On reflection: I’ve pulled nearly every type trailer. But not ever logging.
“Antenna” should be a study of what you see. Lots of men don’t care much, so ask on radio about height clearance.
Latest with NMO30 & WD640 Whip & SpringB is that it’ll tune 11M at approximately 62” total height. This may be a stronger contender in terms of lasting.
— I haven’t researched NMO mount to adapt to mirror arm.
Stainless steel a better choice. Machine shop to adapt?
NMO27 & standard whip plus SpringB at approximately 49” total height.
Get measurement of from top of mirror arm confirmed; can be done on CAT SCALE. Drop plumb bob and tape length securely. Mark with Sharpie. Measure after off scale.
49” might be his “answer” assuming the rest is beyond what he had before.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
12V Power
You’ve seen this:
forums.radioreference.com
As a reference QT80 wants to see a constant 15A @ 14V. I’d build for at least 20A.
POS to BATT, fused
NEG to closest tested ground
(Marine-grade, high strand count).
Big truck nothing wrong with taking both to BATT housing under steps. But, long & expensive.
Run POS thru an unused airline panel opening and attach to other cabling back to BATT housing from underhood.
.
You’ve seen this:
Big Truck Radio 12V Source Upgrade
Semi-truck tractors come pre-wired with a fused 10A or 15A harness which connects to a standard radio cord via binding posts (in almost all cases). Problem is that it’s both noisy (from fuse panel), and consists of a minimal wire gauge which allows for a greater than .5V (3%) volt drop while in...
As a reference QT80 wants to see a constant 15A @ 14V. I’d build for at least 20A.
POS to BATT, fused
NEG to closest tested ground
(Marine-grade, high strand count).
Big truck nothing wrong with taking both to BATT housing under steps. But, long & expensive.
Run POS thru an unused airline panel opening and attach to other cabling back to BATT housing from underhood.
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Audio
DRX-901 above/behind drivers left shoulder.
No substitute location.
Overhead panel above windshield for mount not acceptable.
High stakes radio is speed-of-acquisition.
(In 2020 FTL EVO Condo).
Sorbothane sheet + Velcro + SuperGlue + SS sheetmetal screws.
.
DRX-901 above/behind drivers left shoulder.
No substitute location.
Overhead panel above windshield for mount not acceptable.
High stakes radio is speed-of-acquisition.
(In 2020 FTL EVO Condo).
Sorbothane sheet + Velcro + SuperGlue + SS sheetmetal screws.
.
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slowmover
Active Member
RF Bond
Jump both doors, both hinges (4)).
Heat shrink cover better choice
Cut/Trim ring terminal to fit after using Dremel to get paint under bolt head (don’t remove bolt).
While removing old coax look for access to mirror arm bolts. Do same both sides.
Tie these each side via jumper to A-pillar structure under hood. Run down (about one foot each jumper or less) to a frame bolt or something attached to frame (study).
This isn’t ideal, but it works.
Rear of cab jump cab shock absorbers to frame (same way, again).
Owner gets partick-alar he can someday jump fifth wheel plate to frame (study fuel tanker).
.
Jump both doors, both hinges (4)).
Heat shrink cover better choice
Cut/Trim ring terminal to fit after using Dremel to get paint under bolt head (don’t remove bolt).
While removing old coax look for access to mirror arm bolts. Do same both sides.
Tie these each side via jumper to A-pillar structure under hood. Run down (about one foot each jumper or less) to a frame bolt or something attached to frame (study).
This isn’t ideal, but it works.
Rear of cab jump cab shock absorbers to frame (same way, again).
Owner gets partick-alar he can someday jump fifth wheel plate to frame (study fuel tanker).
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Case Ground
Use old coax shield to make jumpers to “ground” any components to Radio Neg common ground point.
Stray RF
.
Use old coax shield to make jumpers to “ground” any components to Radio Neg common ground point.
Stray RF
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Probably have forgotten something, and it may be more than you asked . . so even if this guy don’t care much the next ones will.
It’s a big truck outline you can use.
Take time tuning before any Loctite or gorilla crank of bolts.
As you know it’s in hearing more than what words were spoken.
Edit: NMO mount shown might need different opening size plus additional to get it right. Plan that approach carefully.
You or I might want it, but we ain’t emotionally tied to having to buy replacement parts at London.
.
It’s a big truck outline you can use.
Take time tuning before any Loctite or gorilla crank of bolts.
As you know it’s in hearing more than what words were spoken.
Edit: NMO mount shown might need different opening size plus additional to get it right. Plan that approach carefully.
You or I might want it, but we ain’t emotionally tied to having to buy replacement parts at London.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
“Distracted driving” is a cover story for H1B and other incompetents shouldn’t be at the wheel above 40-MPH.
Here’s a produce hauler sits on floor looking at road between dashtop and steering wheel with ape hanger shifter. A windshield shade vertical cover of more than half of glass.
Stupid is as stupid does.
Helluva last ride.
Most devices can be used . . when prudence is understood. That’s a question of character.
.
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W8HDU
Member
Biggest problem I've seen on trucks is when the OP wants cool looking and toys to impress his fellow truck drivers than something useful that works. In my line of business we often have to coordinate with drivers as the roads don't allow two trucks to meet, so our trick is to get the guy on site out, before the next one comes in.
I've tried communicating with some who had 1/4 mile or less range. They consider that good because they can talk to others at the truck stop or scales. On the other hand, the majority of the independents we work with "get it", and have a decent antenna, properly installed, and the radios are decent with no "kicker" attached.
The installs I've seen which work the best are the 42" rod, on loading coil, mounted to the mirror with a ground strap down the mirror to the chassis. Just slightly taller than the exhaust stack. Second would be the shorter loaded antenna mounted on the top of the cab with dual springs, and under the cab roof is a sheet of 24" x 24" brass sheet for a ground plane, grounded to the chassis. Usually those are the Larsen model NMO27B with an extra model SPRINGB to fold over if they "kiss" a tree branch. Running at 55 on the highway it will bend back a little, but not to the point where you can say performance is compromised.
The one thing most OPs don't understand is you can have a great match on the antenna, but the signal goes nowhere because of placement and grounding. A good antenna should faithfully give the OP 3-10 miles if the skip/propagation is down.
A lot of OPs also run GMRS because some clients use that for yard coordinating inbound and outbound deliveries, as well as ground crews. GMRS is great, until you get into dense wooded areas in the peak of July and August. UHF is awful when you're in the woods. CB and low band are our preferred methods of communication.
I've tried communicating with some who had 1/4 mile or less range. They consider that good because they can talk to others at the truck stop or scales. On the other hand, the majority of the independents we work with "get it", and have a decent antenna, properly installed, and the radios are decent with no "kicker" attached.
The installs I've seen which work the best are the 42" rod, on loading coil, mounted to the mirror with a ground strap down the mirror to the chassis. Just slightly taller than the exhaust stack. Second would be the shorter loaded antenna mounted on the top of the cab with dual springs, and under the cab roof is a sheet of 24" x 24" brass sheet for a ground plane, grounded to the chassis. Usually those are the Larsen model NMO27B with an extra model SPRINGB to fold over if they "kiss" a tree branch. Running at 55 on the highway it will bend back a little, but not to the point where you can say performance is compromised.
The one thing most OPs don't understand is you can have a great match on the antenna, but the signal goes nowhere because of placement and grounding. A good antenna should faithfully give the OP 3-10 miles if the skip/propagation is down.
A lot of OPs also run GMRS because some clients use that for yard coordinating inbound and outbound deliveries, as well as ground crews. GMRS is great, until you get into dense wooded areas in the peak of July and August. UHF is awful when you're in the woods. CB and low band are our preferred methods of communication.
Attachments
slowmover
Active Member
“ . . The installs I've seen which work the best are the 42" rod, on loading coil, mounted to the mirror with a ground strap down the mirror to frame”.
PRO COMM 2019 Catalog
MBL-3B.
Or 4’ version
This type I have seen on a number of dump trucks (or end dumps).
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Revised Antenna Suggestion
Per @W8HDU obsetvations:
This is GTG truck stop stuff.
Ck stud diameter to finalize bracket mount.
SS seriously preferred (I have one of these; below).
1). MBL3B Antenna
2). (Appropriate HUSTLER antenna spring)
3). SS HD Mount
4). Coax
Bud Light version of an all-Larsen NMO
.
Per @W8HDU obsetvations:
This is GTG truck stop stuff.
Ck stud diameter to finalize bracket mount.
SS seriously preferred (I have one of these; below).
1). MBL3B Antenna
2). (Appropriate HUSTLER antenna spring)
3). SS HD Mount
4). Coax
Bud Light version of an all-Larsen NMO
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
Leave other radio service on starboard side.
slowmover
Active Member
JBC930 Stud
Maybe better and with D-X coax.
(Not best match to coax needs, but it’s worked for me).
There’s not an ideal stud at present.
PREDATOR stud was best.
I used a similar dome top stud on last truck with 8’ at 14.1” TTL, but I wasn’t whacking trees for a living
Stud choice is weak link
.
Maybe better and with D-X coax.
(Not best match to coax needs, but it’s worked for me).
There’s not an ideal stud at present.
PREDATOR stud was best.
I used a similar dome top stud on last truck with 8’ at 14.1” TTL, but I wasn’t whacking trees for a living
Stud choice is weak link
.
Attachments
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What killed CB radio in trucking is.....Smartphones. (Affected life in many ways, but our thesis today is trucking) Folks....everyone looks through the lense of present day 2025. The I-Phone more or less hit the streets in 2010....others followed. It wasn't that long ago that a CB radio was your ONLY comms out of the cab into the world around you (local). It wasn't a TOY, it was a real part of your day, 24/7. Local comms were very important, looking for directions to that warehouse, if there are one-way streets, what the bridges look like, etc. In most every town or city there were always a few folks at home with base stations, and offered some good local info. In the cab we had paper maps, a paper log book (only 1 lol), sometimes a pocket calculator, and for tunes if you were lucky a AM/FM radio in the dash. You weren't staring at a piece of glass in your hand 24/7, you were paying attention out the windows, listening to all the creaks and groans of the truck, trying to find a lower gear that is "more rounded" to downshift after the 4-wheeler in front of you slammed on his brakes. Usually, another brother driver in view got on that CB radio and you had someone to vent to, live in person.
Not to veer too far away from the OP's main topic, but having a decent radio and setup, even for local trips, is important. I always saw CB radios in the trucks as productivity. This is the approach I take when explaining to the younger drivers, who come to me looking for a CB in the truck....understand why you need it. Not just for the scale house at the gravel pits, but you can actually talk to other drivers out there (amazing concept to most these days). I think a lot of the tips and tricks presented here really help with the newer trucks.
Not to veer too far away from the OP's main topic, but having a decent radio and setup, even for local trips, is important. I always saw CB radios in the trucks as productivity. This is the approach I take when explaining to the younger drivers, who come to me looking for a CB in the truck....understand why you need it. Not just for the scale house at the gravel pits, but you can actually talk to other drivers out there (amazing concept to most these days). I think a lot of the tips and tricks presented here really help with the newer trucks.
