Soldering fuse holder

[jazzboypro]

Hello all,

I am assembling cables that will be use in a battery charging circuit. The goal is to power a few rigs in case of a power grid failure. I have a few maxi fuse holders. the holders have a short piece of 6 awg multi strand wire at each end. I will be buying a few feet of the same wire to make the cables. My question is what would be the proper way of connecting the fuse holder to the newly bought wire for good mechanical and electrical contact.

Many thanks
73
De Sylvain

 

[mmckenna]

I'd do a terminal block. Soldering #6 will be a mess. You could try a crimp sleeve, followed up by heat shrink.

Or, get a Maxi fuse holder with screw terminals.

 

[jazzboypro]

I'd do a terminal block. Soldering #6 will be a mess. You could try a crimp sleeve, followed up by heat shrink.

Or, get a Maxi fuse holder with screw terminals.

Unfortunately I already have the fuse holders and they do not have screw terminals. Terminal block or crimp sleeve it will be.

Thanks for the info.

 

[mmckenna]

Terminal block with crimp on ring terminals on all your cabling.

 

[jazzboypro]

Terminal block with crimp on ring terminals on all your cabling.

Any particular brand i should be looking for ?

 

[W9WSS]

Although I'm pretty certain all of those components are manufactured off-shore, just don't go for the cheap. Use quality terminals from a reputable dealer. If you do Amazon, make sure the terminal(s) you purchase get plenty of stars in their product reviews.

 

[jazzboypro]

Although I'm pretty certain all of those components are manufactured off-shore, just don't go for the cheap. Use quality terminals from a reputable dealer. If you do Amazon, make sure the terminal(s) you purchase get plenty of stars in their product reviews.

I went to amazon to get an idea of what the terminal blocks and ring connectors look like but have not made a purchase yet. I'll wait a bit to see if i get some suggestions from this thread. I sure don't want to skimp on those items.

 

[mmckenna]

BlueSea makes good stuff.
As for terminal blocks, look at the reviews.
I use the copper crimp terminals from Selterm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CNGJZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[jazzboypro]

BlueSea makes good stuff.
As for terminal blocks, look at the reviews.
I use the copper crimp terminals from Selterm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CNGJZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those crimp terminals will be fine for most of what i need to do but i will need to fine some with a larger hole. I forgot to mention it but i will also need the crimping tool. Can you point me to what tool i need for those terminals ?

 

[mmckenna]

Those crimp terminals will be fine for most of what i need to do but i will need to fine some with a larger hole.

Shop around, you can find them. I think I have some up to 3/8" lug hole.

I forgot to mention it but i will also need the crimping tool. Can you point me to what tool i need for those terminals ?

I have a large Thomas & Betts crimper I purchased used off e-Bay years ago. It'll do up to #2. These are what I have.

Thomas & Betts WT115A Tool Stakon Terminals Electrician Crimper for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Thomas & Betts WT115A Tool Stakon Terminals Electrician Crimper at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

But I didn't pay that much. I think mine were about $60.

These are a pretty good design

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Lug-Crimper-Tool-TH0012/dp/B00HJYVFSG/ref=sr_1_34?crid=30JZG5YULJAPT&keywords=6+gauge+crimper&qid=1654969411&sprefix=6+gauge+crimper%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-34

Or, shop around on e-Bay. You can find used ones that you can pick up cheap. The good ones are built really well, and for this sort of use, a used one will be fine.

Amazon sells some inexpensive kits, but not sure how good they are.
Don't use the 'hammer' type, they probably work fine, but I'd not rely on it. Good crimpers are really worth the money.
Watch out for the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimpers. While they seem to work well, the crimp dies are metric. They've relabeled them to the closest AWG size, but they are not exact, and again, I'd not trust them.

As always, follow up the crimp with marine grade/adhesive lined heat shrink. When you are done, they'll look professional and will probably outlast your vehicle.

 

[jazzboypro]

Shop around, you can find them. I think I have some up to 3/8" lug hole.



I have a large Greenlee crimper I purchased used off e-Bay years ago. It'll do up to #2.
These are a pretty good design

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Lug-Crimper-Tool-TH0012/dp/B00HJYVFSG/ref=sr_1_34?crid=30JZG5YULJAPT&keywords=6+gauge+crimper&qid=1654969411&sprefix=6+gauge+crimper%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-34

Or, shop around on e-Bay. You can find used ones that you can pick up cheap. The good ones are built really well, and for this sort of use, a used one will be fine.

Amazon sells some inexpensive kits, but not sure how good they are.
Don't use the 'hammer' type, they probably work fine, but I'd not rely on it. Good crimpers are really worth the money.

I found and bought the Selterm terminals on Amazon i should get them tomorrow. They had both sizes. I'll shop around for the tool. I should be able to find the terminal blocks in a nearby store.

 

[jazzboypro]

Shop around, you can find them. I think I have some up to 3/8" lug hole.



I have a large Thomas & Betts crimper I purchased used off e-Bay years ago. It'll do up to #2. These are what I have.

Thomas & Betts WT115A Tool Stakon Terminals Electrician Crimper for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Thomas & Betts WT115A Tool Stakon Terminals Electrician Crimper at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

But I didn't pay that much. I think mine were about $60.

These are a pretty good design

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Lug-Crimper-Tool-TH0012/dp/B00HJYVFSG/ref=sr_1_34?crid=30JZG5YULJAPT&keywords=6+gauge+crimper&qid=1654969411&sprefix=6+gauge+crimper%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-34

Or, shop around on e-Bay. You can find used ones that you can pick up cheap. The good ones are built really well, and for this sort of use, a used one will be fine.

Amazon sells some inexpensive kits, but not sure how good they are.
Don't use the 'hammer' type, they probably work fine, but I'd not rely on it. Good crimpers are really worth the money.
Watch out for the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimpers. While they seem to work well, the crimp dies are metric. They've relabeled them to the closest AWG size, but they are not exact, and again, I'd not trust them.

As always, follow up the crimp with marine grade/adhesive lined heat shrink. When you are done, they'll look professional and will probably outlast your vehicle.

Thanks for the info. I will look around for the tool. I will use heat shrink however i am not doing a mobile installation. Everything will be installed in my basement and therefore not subject to moisture/rain/vibration etc. It also won't moved around

 

[mmckenna]

Thanks for the info. I will look around for the tool. I will use heat shrink however i am not doing a mobile installation. Everything will be installed in my basement and therefore not subject to moisture/rain/vibration etc. It also won't moved around

Copper will oxidize/corrode if there is any moisture.
Usually I use No-Ox-Id electrical contact grease inside the crimp connectors. Using a proper crimp tool and lugs, you'll get a "gas tight" connection, but anything you can do to seal things up better will give you an installation that lasts longer. Following up with the adhesive lined heat shrink will seal everything up really well.
I'd be concerned about moisture in the basement eventually corroding things.
I'd also shine up the copper lugs before installing them. Fine emery paper or wire brush should do the trick. All your connections should be shiny before tying them down. Some of the no-ox-id grease on the mating surface before torquing them down will prevent issues.
Clean/sealed connections will keep corrosion out and reduce resistance.

 

[mmckenna]

I know it sounds like overkill, but it's worked for me for decades. I have high current DC power systems at work that are in some 'less than ideal' environments. Most I installed in 2008 and they are still working well. Paying attention to the details makes a difference.

 

[jazzboypro]

Copper will oxidize/corrode if there is any moisture.
Usually I use No-Ox-Id electrical contact grease inside the crimp connectors. Using a proper crimp tool and lugs, you'll get a "gas tight" connection, but anything you can do to seal things up better will give you an installation that lasts longer. Following up with the adhesive lined heat shrink will seal everything up really well.
I'd be concerned about moisture in the basement eventually corroding things.
I'd also shine up the copper lugs before installing them. Fine emery paper or wire brush should do the trick. All your connections should be shiny before tying them down. Some of the no-ox-id grease on the mating surface before torquing them down will prevent issues.
Clean/sealed connections will keep corrosion out and reduce resistance.

Again thanks a lot for your help. Just ordered the No-ox-id and the adhesive lined heat shrink. Should be here by tomorrow, Considering the price of the battery and the radio it will power i might as well do a good installation and be done with it

 

[mmckenna]

Again thanks a lot for your help. Just ordered the No-ox-id and the adhesive lined heat shrink. Should be here by tomorrow, Considering the price of the battery and the radio it will power i might as well do a good installation and be done with it

It really does pay off in the long run.
I do a lot of DC power systems at work, and they have to be highly reliable. I spend a lot of time and money on maintenance. When things break, I get called out in the middle of the night to fix it. You get tired of that after a while, and you learn to do things right so you can spend more time sleeping.
I know this may be for hobby use, but for a few extra bucks and some extra effort, you can make this very reliable.
When hams talk about the "When all else fails" thing, I've found they are usually running really sketchy setups that are no where near the reliability or capabilities of the stuff I run on our radio and telephone systems.
Batteries and radios are expensive, but the stuff in the middle is reasonably priced. If you already have the good battery and the radios, this little bit of extra cash will be a good investment.

Looking forward to see how your project turns out. If you feel like it, post some photos.

 

[slowmover]

AMAZON has a $45 hydraulic crimper I bought on recommendation of:

Mobile Install Bible

Have done several big truck installations using USCG standard supplies (Blue Sea among them). WEST MARINE (retail) JAMESTOWN (online)

I’m not stuck needing pro tools. Would like to have them , but best practice and being painstaking my substitute.

Tinned copper SELTERM lugs, ANCOR -spec equivalent wiring & ELECTRIDUCT sheathing plus woven braided strap (RF Bonds).

That link above where I learned the most.

This site — for tech details (Mr McKenna for installs) — is one where he’d be hard pressed to find this quality of detail-level elsewhere (other contributors).

It’s out there. Buy one works harder finding it.

.

 

[slowmover]

Copper will oxidize/corrode if there is any moisture.
Usually I use No-Ox-Id electrical contact grease inside the crimp connectors. Using a proper crimp tool and lugs, you'll get a "gas tight" connection, but anything you can do to seal things up better will give you an installation that lasts longer. Following up with the adhesive lined heat shrink will seal everything up really well.
I'd be concerned about moisture in the basement eventually corroding things.
I'd also shine up the copper lugs before installing them. Fine emery paper or wire brush should do the trick. All your connections should be shiny before tying them down. Some of the no-ox-id grease on the mating surface before torquing them down will prevent issues.
Clean/sealed connections will keep corrosion out and reduce resistance.

3M #2212 sold by DX Engineering and others this sort of application.

Good luck getting it off. (A feature)

It’s not the only choice, potentially. Use as default per spec in comparisons.

.

 

[mmckenna]

Those hydraulic crimpers are pretty nice. You just need to be 100% sure that the dies really are the size they claim to be. Some of them being sold are metic sizes and they've just stamped the nearest AWG size on them. Fine for hobby use, but it won't cut it when you start pulling a few hundred amps through the crimps.

I have a contractor that does some of my big installs for me. He has a really high end hexagon crimper that will do all the way up into the MCM size cable range. He's done 350MCM size crimps for me on our big battery systems. I think when he bought the tool back in the early 1990's, it was somewhere north of $5,000.

For most of what I do at work, up to 0000 is good enough. So I have two sets of crimpers that will do everything from 8 gauge up to 0000.
At home, I have the Thomas and Betts crimpers that do 8, 6, 4 and 2 gauge, which is plenty for me.
My good ones at work even stamp the crimp size on the lug, so theoretically they can be inspected after installation. I do the inspections, so I'm good with it.

There's good deals on the used market. Truth is, the manual crimpers really have little that can go wrong with them. Getting an old rusty pair and disassembling and cleaning will be a good investment. The last set I bought needed some TLC, but I've more than received my money back on the investment.



Sometimes you'll hear people try to discourage crimping and suggest soldering is the only way to go. Usually it's old hams doing this.
Soldering is fine if you can get everything hot enough. That can be difficult to do on larger cable/lugs. If you don't do it right, you can end up with cold solder joints that will fail. The other issue is that the solder will wick down the strands and make the cable really stiff right near the connection. That usually leads to failure in an environment where there is vibration. I've been told that aircraft installations do not permit soldering due to this issue.
A good exercise is to do a proper crimp on a piece of scrap cable, and then saw it open and inspect the inside. If done correctly, you'll have what they call a "gas tight" connection. In other words, the crimp is so tight, it's gas tight, as in no moist air can get inside and corrode it. It's considered a form of welding. The fine strands of the conductor all look like one, and you shouldn't be able to see the transition between the conductor and the lug.
The No-Ox-Id is handy since it fills in any potential gaps. When everything is crimped and torqued correctly, the No-Ox-Id will fill voids, but get pressed out of any metal to metal connections. It'll prevent corrosion and give you a trouble free joint. I do it on all our DC power stuff, as well as all the ground bonds.
I've never had one fail.
The adhesive lined heat shrink will seal everything from the outside. It serves the purpose of sealing the insulation to lug connection. It also makes the connection look really professional and provides some level of strain relief.
Some of my equipment is pretty close to the ocean, so taking these steps is pretty important.

 

[slowmover]

Copper will oxidize/corrode if there is any moisture.
Usually I use No-Ox-Id electrical contact grease inside the crimp connectors. Using a proper crimp tool and lugs, you'll get a "gas tight" connection, but anything you can do to seal things up better will give you an installation that lasts longer. Following up with the adhesive lined heat shrink will seal everything up really well.
I'd be concerned about moisture in the basement eventually corroding things.
I'd also shine up the copper lugs before installing them. Fine emery paper or wire brush should do the trick. All your connections should be shiny before tying them down. Some of the no-ox-id grease on the mating surface before torquing them down will prevent issues.
Clean/sealed connections will keep corrosion out and reduce resistance.

Basement humidity should be under control via de-humidifier can maintain 40% or less.

Radios won’t stand up to prolonged problems unless designed to do so (mil spec).

I wouldn’t make bets otherwise.