I recently purchased a Uniden Grant XL SSB radio at an estate sale and although it looks cosmetically perfect on the outside I noticed there is a case screw missing so it looks like someone had it apart before. It came with a mic but no power cord. It has the 3 pin connector on the back of the radio. I don't want to waste $20 and order a cord if I'm not sure that the Grant is working. Is there a way to check the radio with a 12v power supply and wire with alligator clips on the ends. I read somewhere that the 3rd pin has nothing to do with powering up CB radios. I'm anxious to give it a try and see if it actually works after paying out what I consider more than its actually worth.
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Uniden Grant XL Power Cord
- Thread starter SatHunter
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I finally got a look at the schematic for the Uniden. It looks like there is only a 12V line and a ground. The middle pin doesn't appear to do anything. I posted a screenshot. Would this be the view from the top of the radio with the red wire on the right & the black on the left? Sorry - the snap is pretty low-res.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
The plug/socket should be polarized so the plug can be installed only one way.
I know, you don't have a plug for it, and want to use alligator clips. But if you look closely, the pin spacing should be different/not equal. That should match up with the schematic.
There is a reverse polarity protection diode in the radio (Shown as -->|— on the schematic above the socket). If you install a low amperage fuse, it ~should~ blow the fuse if you accidentally hook it up backwards. I'd start with a one amp fuse between the power supply and the radio on the positive lead. Do NOT transmit. If the radio powers up OK and the fuse does not blow, then you have the polarity correct. Take the 1 amp fuse out and replace it with a 5 amp fuse and try transmitting with the radio.
If that all works, feel confident buying the right power cord for it and enjoy the radio.
I know, you don't have a plug for it, and want to use alligator clips. But if you look closely, the pin spacing should be different/not equal. That should match up with the schematic.
There is a reverse polarity protection diode in the radio (Shown as -->|— on the schematic above the socket). If you install a low amperage fuse, it ~should~ blow the fuse if you accidentally hook it up backwards. I'd start with a one amp fuse between the power supply and the radio on the positive lead. Do NOT transmit. If the radio powers up OK and the fuse does not blow, then you have the polarity correct. Take the 1 amp fuse out and replace it with a 5 amp fuse and try transmitting with the radio.
If that all works, feel confident buying the right power cord for it and enjoy the radio.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
The NEGATIVE should be on the outer pin of the two pins closest together. The POSITIVE should be the pin farther spaced from the other two.
slowmover
Active Member
FWIW, I have close to a dozen CB radios here at the house — (4) brands) — and they all feature the three-prong power cord, but only two prongs are used.
There are CBs with two prong only, but what most folks would buy need the three-prong type.
The power end is two soldered leads, or a cigar lighter plug.
Truck stops are always a good source for this item.
Good advice above about fuse test for polarity.
Be advised it is possible for spark to jump the wrong gap on connection. I’m not the only one who’s had to take a radio in for repair to replace the diode when this occurs. I’ve only had it happen once. Radio connection first, connect to power second when possible.
It’s not a guarantee, but (IMO), it’s good practice to ground the case. A case ground is also help with getting the best radio rig performance. I use braided coax shield as the ground.
“Insurance” as the radio bracket may not have made a good ground in itself. It’s a static charge makes the jump (just like almost touching a doorknob). That missing screw may have been used as the ground. I use a Dremel to remove paint.
Power cords tend to be foolproof given they aren’t jammed against anything, and care is used in removal or installation. It’s possible to distort the radio male end, but that’s a stock item at a CB shop for repairs. Or one can order and solder one in.
In a repair or change being made in a mobile it’s easy to get sloppy on the side of the road or on a hot day. So always turning the radio OFF if coax and or power is removed or connected is best practice.
Take a moment to catch your breath before re-connecting and double-check 12V + Coax for termination looseness, etc. Radio and other devices OFF.
I’ve never owned a Grant, but the men who do (or, did) really liked them. Good luck.
.
There are CBs with two prong only, but what most folks would buy need the three-prong type.
The power end is two soldered leads, or a cigar lighter plug.
Truck stops are always a good source for this item.
Good advice above about fuse test for polarity.
Be advised it is possible for spark to jump the wrong gap on connection. I’m not the only one who’s had to take a radio in for repair to replace the diode when this occurs. I’ve only had it happen once. Radio connection first, connect to power second when possible.
It’s not a guarantee, but (IMO), it’s good practice to ground the case. A case ground is also help with getting the best radio rig performance. I use braided coax shield as the ground.
“Insurance” as the radio bracket may not have made a good ground in itself. It’s a static charge makes the jump (just like almost touching a doorknob). That missing screw may have been used as the ground. I use a Dremel to remove paint.
Power cords tend to be foolproof given they aren’t jammed against anything, and care is used in removal or installation. It’s possible to distort the radio male end, but that’s a stock item at a CB shop for repairs. Or one can order and solder one in.
In a repair or change being made in a mobile it’s easy to get sloppy on the side of the road or on a hot day. So always turning the radio OFF if coax and or power is removed or connected is best practice.
Take a moment to catch your breath before re-connecting and double-check 12V + Coax for termination looseness, etc. Radio and other devices OFF.
I’ve never owned a Grant, but the men who do (or, did) really liked them. Good luck.
.
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mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
That's good, and nice they did that.
Always good to double check and never assume.
I had to swap out an inverter at one of my radio sites that was used to power a network switch. Same brand inverter, same form factor, same case, only difference was one was a modified sine wave inverter and the new one was a pure sine wave inverter (Brocade switch power supplies didn't like modified sine wave…). Figured it was an easy swap out. Luckily something made me look closely and double check before swapping them. Sure enough, the polarity on the connector was swapped on the new model. SAME connector, SAME manufacturer.
Only thing I can chalk that up to is some A.. H… engineer thought it would be funny.
Always check. Always ask. Never assume.
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