• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Wires to use for power?

Status
Not open for further replies.

punisher13

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
9
I’ve been chasing my mouse all over this site looking for types of wire to use between the truck battery and scanner... so.... I’m throwing up a new thread.
I’ve got all sorts of wire lying around the shop, anything from ROMEX house wire to lengths of orange extension cords. What’s the best to use for hot wiring a scanner via the battery? I have no clue about the requirements needed to avoid noise problems, radio interference, proper insulation, amps, ohms, resistance values…….

Also, if I place my antenna- which I still haven’t purchased- on the hood of my Dodge Dakota with a NMO hood mount will it have a ground plane or reception pattern like a CB radio would? i.e. - If it’s on the front left of the hood then the reception will be better on the front right due to the ground plane? And as far antennas, I have a BCT15, any thoughts on which would be a good choice with the hood placement??
 

ofd8001

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Feb 6, 2004
Messages
7,915
Location
Louisville, KY
Any wiring we do to our fire department vehicles for warning lights or radio stuff is "High Temperature Cross Link" wire. It's pretty limber, and tolerates the heat of engine compartments well.

Obviously you'll want to have some overcurrent protection (fuse or circuit breaker) right at the battery so you do not get a fire caused by a short and end up with an opportunity to see how your fire department wires their vehicles.
 

punisher13

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
9
I do love my fire Dept, but only at a distance!! Thanks for doing what you do, you guys and gals are heros in this soldiers book! And thanks for your input,

SGT. Ervin
 

SLWilson

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2004
Messages
1,221
Location
Ohio
What kind....

I’ve been chasing my mouse all over this site looking for types of wire to use between the truck battery and scanner... so.... I’m throwing up a new thread.
I’ve got all sorts of wire lying around the shop, anything from ROMEX house wire to lengths of orange extension cords. What’s the best to use for hot wiring a scanner via the battery? I have no clue about the requirements needed to avoid noise problems, radio interference, proper insulation, amps, ohms, resistance values…….

Also, if I place my antenna- which I still haven’t purchased- on the hood of my Dodge Dakota with a NMO hood mount will it have a ground plane or reception pattern like a CB radio would? i.e. - If it’s on the front left of the hood then the reception will be better on the front right due to the ground plane? And as far antennas, I have a BCT15, any thoughts on which would be a good choice with the hood placement??

What kind of "DC" wire came with the scanner?

Generally, since you aren't going to be trandmitting on a scanner, you don't need any "large" wire like you described....

Radio Shack sells a spool of the red/black wire (it's stranded wire) that'll get you from the battery to the passenger compartment.

Or. check the Net and order a cig plug for your model if that's the way you want to go.

I had a 2003 Dodge Durango. Mounted my antenna just as you described. It worked great. (The AC blower motor is on the other side and you "can" get noise out of it)...

Remember, just keep it simple.

Steve/KB8FAR
 

punisher13

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
9
It came with a Three wire DC Power Cord so it will be what I use. Just to make sure I understood you correctly, you mounted the antenna with a "hood mount" (the one Ive been looking at actually mounts to the top of the 1/4 pannel) on the drivers side? What antenna worked for you?
Thanks for your help Steve!
 

KC0QNB

Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
730
Location
Gothenburg, NE
Cross linked is real good wire, pricey and a bear to strip, go to your local auto supply store get some 14 gage primary wire in red and black, sometimes you can find red and black inside an outer covering, looks like a romex cable but its not. Or like the other guy said get a cigar lighter plug and use it.
On the other subject I have my uhf antenna mounted on a hood bracket on the drivers side. It is actually an "L" bracket made from SS that screws to the fender inside the engine compartment where the hood and fender meet. have any more questions pm me. :wink:
 

SLWilson

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2004
Messages
1,221
Location
Ohio
Yes...

It came with a Three wire DC Power Cord so it will be what I use. Just to make sure I understood you correctly, you mounted the antenna with a "hood mount" (the one Ive been looking at actually mounts to the top of the 1/4 pannel) on the drivers side? What antenna worked for you?
Thanks for your help Steve!

Yes. They make a molded piece of stainless (or black) metal that conforms to the roll on the Dodge. It worked great.

Be careful when you buy yours. Mine had a "little bit" of adjustment to be able to slide it in or out if you needed to.

I used a Motorola Spectra 5/8's wave antenna on mine when out away from town...Just running around in town, I just put a 1/4 wave antenna on it. (Didn't change it much, carried the 1/4 wave around in the back of the truck)...

I'd add a picture of what I have on my Tahoe now, but, this site says I'm over my limit for pictures....Not sure when they started that....

Steve
 

n8emr

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Messages
498
For wire typically used in auto at lengths common in vehicles, less than 25ft.
The quality of wire also play in to current carrying capacity but the numbers below are good starter
points.


22 gauge gets your 3 amps
18 is good for 5amps
14 10amps
8 for 20 amps
4 for 40 amps
2 guage will get you 50 amps are
 

shaft

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
418
Location
Wentzville, Mo
18awg is plenty for powering a scanner. Dont go smaller, and no real need to go any larger.

I'd wire directly to the fuse box, preferably a switched circuit so you dont accidently drain your battery by leaving the scanner on.
 

kc2nru

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Messages
4
Location
Brockport NY
18awg is plenty for powering a scanner. Dont go smaller, and no real need to go any larger.

I'd wire directly to the fuse box, preferably a switched circuit so you dont accidently drain your battery by leaving the scanner on.


I agree.

Maybe a relay too so it can go on and off with the ignition.


Good luck!
 

Viper43

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2005
Messages
3,272
I wired my scanners to unused relay positions and added the relays, works great! Just make sure you go off the right wire for that relay.
Also the third wire on your stock scanner cable is for the dimmer switch, usually orange but not always.

V
 

punisher13

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
9
Thanks to all for the help!
I realize this is way off subject but...... Im hooking up some offroad lights and was curious, once again, what would be a good choice of wire. Last time I did this I ended up with working lights.....for a while.....then a mass of melted wire.( Explains why all the scanner/ wire questions!!) I did not use relays, I dont even know what relays are or what their function is! Any one expireanced in this?
 

rescuecomm

Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2005
Messages
1,455
Location
Travelers Rest, SC
I have found that car stereo installation shops have a good selection of wire, connectors, and fuse holders. For a scanner, you won't need any big stuff and they sell piggy back fuse clips to make things real easy.

RS
 

shaft

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
418
Location
Wentzville, Mo
Thanks to all for the help!
I realize this is way off subject but...... Im hooking up some offroad lights and was curious, once again, what would be a good choice of wire. Last time I did this I ended up with working lights.....for a while.....then a mass of melted wire.( Explains why all the scanner/ wire questions!!) I did not use relays, I dont even know what relays are or what their function is! Any one expireanced in this?

Depends on the type of lights and power it draws. HIDs for example will require high end wiring, specifically ones that are rated for high temp and amperage. I'd google some of the off-road forums, they usally have an area that discusses that exact issue and can lead you in the right direction.
 

mjthomas59

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
510
As far as the scanner goes, do yourself a favor and allow it to run without the key on. I've left my scanner on for days in my Dodge Dakota and never even came close running the battery down. They draw next to nothing and don't require much more than 18gauge wire. I wired mine onto the cig lighter wiring under the dash and have had no problems whatsoever, just make sure you choose the power outlet that is "always on" vs the one that is "keyed". The reality is it doesn't matter which one you use but if you are like me and listen to it all the time its nice to not have to have the key turned on.

I bought a firestik dodge fender mount for one of my scanners. It is the mount for an nmo style antenna and I put a 1/4wave VHF antenna on it. Works great, reception is awesome, and the look is pretty nice. The one I bought is stainless so no rust issues and it mounts using an existing fender bolt. It took me maybe 2 minutes to put the mount on and another 2 or 3 to run the coax.

As far as the lights go, they should have come with some instructions on what kind of wiring to use. I added some offroad foglights to my truck and it came with everything to do the install. I believe the wiring is 10 or 12 gauge at best and the lights use 55watt bulbs. Also be sure you buy a heavy duty switch rated for the power draw of the lights. I've seen what happens when people use too small of wires or switches, and it isn't pretty. Its either a mass of melting plastic or worst case a fire. Don't skimp on the switch, they will get hot running offroad lights for extended periods of time!

For power you can either run it directly off the battery or go to the fusebox that is directly behind the battery. There is a main power line running there which can be used to draw power for your accessories with relative ease.

Between 2 scanners, 1 cb, a Whelen PA/Airhorn, and my sound system my truck is a mess of wires but i've had 0 problems in the 5 years i've owned it.

Good luck!
 

enine

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
220
You should always use automotive wire for an automotive install. Wire designed for automotive installations is made to withstand oil, gasoline, UV, heat, etc that it may encounter where other wire is not.
NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto, Parts America, Checker stores all carry small rolls of wire for a couple $ or you can order from places like waytek wire.
 

jparks29

John McClane
Joined
Nov 20, 2003
Messages
859
Location
Nakatomi Plaza
Depends on the type of lights and power it draws. HIDs for example will require high end wiring, specifically ones that are rated for high temp and amperage. I'd google some of the off-road forums, they usally have an area that discusses that exact issue and can lead you in the right direction.



BBZzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....wrong!

HID's actually draw LESS power, higher voltage, but significantly less amperage... They consume about 35w @13.8VDC, compared to your standard 55/65 watt high/low incandescent/halogen bulbs used in today's headlights.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top