Yaesu: Yaesu FT-817/818 power bank

[WX5812]

I have a nimble 10 day charger power bank. It has 2 ports (usb c and usb a) capable of putting out 12v. I will put a link to this down below. There is also a usb c adapter to solder positive and negative wires to. Would this work as a power source for this radio?

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[wa8pyr]

I have a nimble 10 day charger power bank. It has 2 ports (usb c and usb a) capable of putting out 12v. I will put a link to this down below. There is also a usb c adapter to solder positive and negative wires to. Would this work as a power source for this radio?

If I read the specs correctly, it only provides 1.5a at 12v. It might work, but I wouldn't trust it to do so. In addition, the little bitty wires in typical USB cables would never handle that kind of voltage/current, at least not for long.

Something like this would serve you better; it has a coaxial 12v output jack which would be able to handle more current:

Vehicle Battery Starter Box for Car Jump Start Pack Jumper 12 Volt Travel Small | eBay

【WHAT’S INCLUDED】 portable jump starter 1, smart jumper cables 1, ,USB type-C charging cable 1,DC to cigarette lighter converter 1.

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I use something similar with my FT817 and IC705 and it works like a charm.

 

[WX5812]

Ahhhh.....Thanks for the link to that. You are right on the small wires. I will look further into one like you mentioned. Thanks again!

 

[vagrant]

RX - On FM, my 817ND pulls 0.35A w/squelch off and light on.
TX - On FM @5W, my 817ND pulls 1.5A. ( TX using SSB will be slightly less )

For $60 and supplying 16Ah, I use this LiFePO4 battery to power my 817ND. I also use this $21 LiFePO4 charger with it. In the field I use this $150 50W folding solar panel and this $18 PWM controller that works with LiFePO4 batteries.

Basically, one could probably talk for 10 hours straight and not un key the mic, but I strongly recommend against that. If I am going to use the 817 over a weekend, I use the solar panel to keep it topped up during the day which allows plenty of operating time at night, or just listening.

 

[wa8pyr]

For $60 and supplying 16Ah, I use this LiFePO4 battery to power my 817ND. I also use this $21 LiFePO4 charger with it. In the field I use this $150 50W folding solar panel and this $18 PWM controller that works with LiFePO4 batteries.

Those are good; I do something similar with a 15Ah gel-cell which I've rigged up in a weather-resistant plastic ammo box, which gives me tons of operating time for multiple radios.

However, the advantage to using the jump pack is they're relatively light weight and can power the radio, and/or jump start your car, and/or charge your USB devices (and still be recharged with a solar panel and PWM controller).

All comes down to a matter of preference....

 

[prcguy]

I abandoned the FT-817 series long ago but use this battery setup to power my Elecraft KX3, Icom IC-705 and others. I have a bunch of 12V batteries for the Thales MBITR series with some up to 6.8 amp hour capacity. The adapter on top ends in an Anderson Power Pole and the power cords to all my radios have a matching connector. This makes a really small compact and lightweight power pack for anything that needs up to a couple of amps current draw at 12V volts.

The MBITR batteries are smart and will shut down when they reach a critical voltage and also have cell balancing stuff inside for charging.

 

[vagrant]

I still use one of those store bought SLA in a box to jump start a vehicle. It is old, so I will give one of those LiFePO4 jump starters a try after further research. It will be interesting to see the Ah and voltage over time with a low power draw of 2A or less.

Since we're bringing out the big gun batteries I often use this 6Ah for short excursions. What I like about these LiFePO4 batteries is the built-in BMS that also shuts things down at the critical voltage, as well as the cell balancing. Still, the 6Ah one in the image below, and the one I noted above does not have a low temperature sensor. Thus, charging it around 32°F and below is destructive/fatal to the battery. Size wise, that Thales wins as this thing is at least twice the size and double the weight. Still, I get 12.8V while the Thales suffers at 10.8V...unless that adapter on top is also a buck converter.