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The Uniden Tavern For general chit-chat and non-technical discussion specific to Uniden and does not fall within the above forum topics. This is not the forum to get technical advice from.

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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 8:55 PM
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I can tell you I ran the break in thing I think and even think I did it right. It charged, fully discharged then fully charged and all the batteries, eight of them, only went up to 2500 range give or take. (2471-2537)

They were 2700 Mah batteries though. Still learning about these things and this is the first battery charger I've ever purchased. (the new one lawman210 has)

So that's a good question about what's normal for this charger and batteries levels.
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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 9:05 PM
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I have 4 2500 mah AA batteries in now. I have them set on MaH, and they are rising slowly.

However, like the 4 AAA's I just posted about, when they were fully charged the MaH were very low. I suspect it might be showing me a "maintenance" charge, not the full maH charge of the battery.

Again..any replies welcomed !

Greg

PS: My AAA's were only 1.2 volts, but it charged, according to the display, 1.47 volts. When the maintenance charge kicked in, they were down to 1.40 volts. All these numbers confuse me.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 9:18 PM
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I just did a test on the RadioShack batteries 2500mah
This is how long it last with the light on three hours and 10 minutes
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 9:19 PM
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Default Now I'm going to charge the

Now I'm going to charge that
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 9:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakeportland View Post
How long does batterys last 1350mah
Please tell me
How long do I need to charge them for to
Depends on your charger.

Less than:
7 hours if the charger is 200 Mah
3 hours if the charger is 500 Mah
2 hours if the charger is 700 Mah

Battery Mah divided by the charge rate.
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 9:46 PM
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Thanks
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2014, 9:05 PM
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Default Re: Uniden batteries

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Originally Posted by greggk View Post
Lawman..or anyone..I have a question about the Opus. I got mine today, and put in 4 AAA batteries right out of the box. I set them all for charge. When they were fully charged, the display said "full." However, when I cycle thru different info for each battery, it shows the MaH at either 0, or another low number, such as 2, 3, etc.

Should this not closely match the MaH rating of the battery?; in this case, these batteries were rated at 850 MaH.

Just want to make sure that both the batteries and charger are working. I assume I am just missing something here.

Thanks

Greg
I am not sure of this either. I am even cycling through and getting numbers of 73 up to 25x

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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2014, 9:26 PM
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Lawman..today I took 4 new AA batteries fresh out of the box and put them on a normal charge. They were rated at 2500 mA. When they were done, each battery had a mA rating of over 2500, around the 27x-28x marks.

That was good. Then I put 4 brand new AAA batteries in, each rated at 850mA. When they were fully charged, I had an mA rating of 100mA for all 4 across the board. They were charged to 1.45 volts, all of them, but I do not understand the low amperage.

Are these batteries bad? Even tho the voltage was okay, the mA's were not?

I am confused.

Greg
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2014, 10:58 PM
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I am not sure. The directions on these things are less the spectacular. I have to different readings of ma and mah. I haven't figured out the relation to the readings yet. I did figure out that this charger is not as powerful as the Maha as you can only charge up to 1400 mah on the outer to slots and only 1000 mah if doing more then 2

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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2014, 10:59 PM
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When doing a quick battery check test I'm coming back with really weird numbers.

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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2014, 11:36 AM
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The quick battery test shows results in "milliohms." I have to figure out how that translates to voltage..a simple google search will help with that..when I have time to do it.

The mAh is the amperage of the battery; the mA is the amperage used to charge or discharge the batteries. I may not be using proper descriptions/terminology here, but that is how I underrstand it.

Greg

Also, if the batteries have finished a charging cycle, and you push the "mode" button for whatever reason, it will start all over again, and so the numbers you see then will be the results of the new charge cycle.

FInally..the box says the max charging capacity is 20,000 mAH. That may be a manipulation of its actual abilities; I have no idea on that one.
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2014, 12:00 PM
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Ohms does not translate to voltage. Ohms measures the resistance (or impedance) of a circuit.
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2014, 12:55 PM
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So the internal resistance measured in milliohms and it gives you a reading of 55 that is .055 of an ohm? Earlier in the thread someone commented that a battery showing 1.5- 1.6 is a good battery is the number they were referring to is ohms?

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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2014, 9:13 PM
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Just rechecked a battery with the Maha that was reading "high" impedance. I put it on the Orbis with the quick check and I believe the quick check is suppose to read milliohms. The battery was showing the number 670 where other good batteries are reading 60-70. Can anyone advise?

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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2014, 6:00 PM
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I sent an email to amazon, and the DL Power who sold me the charger, and connected with a very friendly, knowledegable guy named Robert.

He answered some questions for me...it all makes sense now. So, here it is:


Hi Robert. Thanks for the quick reply. A few of us over at Radio Reference.com are discussing the OPUS charger.


Its just that this type of charger is all new to me.

For Example:

1. When I charge 4 AA or AAA batteries under the normal charge option, the completed (full) mAh are usually no where near the stated capacity. Once I charged 4 brand new AA's, and they charged up to an amperage well above 2500 mAh, the stated mAh. That was good. But many other batteries, new and used, do not charge more than maybe 30-40% of their stated mAh.


Mixing apples and oranges. Charge/Discharge Current is in mA (miliAmps), Capacity is in mAh (miliAmp hours). Make sure you understand the difference.

When you charge in charge mode the charger will display the accumulated capacity that the battery took before full charge was detected. If the battery was already at full charge then this will be almost nothing. If the battery was fully depleted then this will be more than stated capacity by perhaps 10% on a good cell. If it is a poor quality cell or going defective this could be much more than expected capacity. Charge mode just shows how much the cell took until full charge is detected.

If you want to know what the present actual capacity of the cell is then you must run a charge/test on it. This mode first fully charges the cell, then it fully discharges the cell while measuring current and time, it then fully charges the cell again. At the end of the cycle the "discharged capacity" is displayed. That tells you how much was actually measured from the cell after a full charged. That tells you what you can expect from the cell in use when it is fully charged.

Is this because I charge them too quick at the default 400mA? If I set the charging mA to say 200 or so, will that charge the batteries higher? The actual "charge" always looks good..just the mAh issue.


The best charge rate is between .2C-.5C. If the battery is spec at 2500 mAh then 1C = 2500 mA, .2C = 500 mA. I would charge those at 600 mA for best cell longevity. You could charge up to .5C or 1250 mA if you need them in a hurry. I would not charge at a current higher than .5C without a charger that is specifically designed for that.


Actually, that is my one only real question. If I could figure that out it would be great.

Well one more. I am trying to discharge an AA. It is going very slow. I just now checked the mA number. It was Zero. I don't know why it did that (Probably operator error somewhere) It also shows the charge at 1.14. I do not understand this as well. As I said, a few of us from RR are confused by all this.


When you are charging in charge mode the default display is charge current in mA.
You can press display and see cell voltage in V (volts). This will increase as the cell charges.
You can press display and see accumulated capacity in mAh (miliAmp hours) This will increase as the cell charges.
You can press display and see time in Hours and minutes. This will increase as the cell charges.

When full charge is detected the display will show Full. You can press display to see the ending values. Current will display the trickle charge current.

You can go to battery university to get lots more information about how to care for NiMH batteries.

Thanks,
Robert

Thank you Robert !!!
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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2014, 7:44 PM
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Ran the 436HP for 12 hours today on a set of 2500MaH Sanyo eneloop batteries I just got from Amazon, and its was still going strong when I took them out to recharge them when I got home. I leave the light off.
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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2014, 4:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_shuffle View Post
I've been using the same Maha MH-C401FS for years, and it's a champ. It just plain works perfectly, year after year. There's a very good reason why you still can't find a new for under $40.
Careful - the charge algorithm was designed something like 20+ years ago, when cells had very high internal resistance, and the "reverse polarity pulse" was designed to reduce that.

Unfortunately, today's cells with their lower internal resistance means that if you charge at the so-called fast charge rate with it's reverse pulse, the cells get HOT HOT HOT. Most consumers then back off to the slow rate.

Problem here is that back when this charger was designed, about the highest cell capacity in use was about 1800mah. For today that means that the reverse pulse especially in the fast mode still overheats the cells, and in the slow mode, can sometimes mean that there is not enough current to trigger the delta-v, it misses the termination, and relies on other backups to terminate.

The 401FS was great in it's day, with the original covered door. Note that more modern models don't have the door to help alleviate the heating issue.

It works, it just means that you cut back on the cycle life you paid for with modern cells.
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2014, 9:00 PM
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Thanks Greggk for all that info on that charger. Thank Robert too.

It explains a lot
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2014, 9:19 PM
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Default Re: Uniden batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by greggk View Post
I sent an email to amazon, and the DL Power who sold me the charger, and connected with a very friendly, knowledegable guy named Robert.

He answered some questions for me...it all makes sense now. So, here it is:


Hi Robert. Thanks for the quick reply. A few of us over at Radio Reference.com are discussing the OPUS charger.


Its just that this type of charger is all new to me.

For Example:

1. When I charge 4 AA or AAA batteries under the normal charge option, the completed (full) mAh are usually no where near the stated capacity. Once I charged 4 brand new AA's, and they charged up to an amperage well above 2500 mAh, the stated mAh. That was good. But many other batteries, new and used, do not charge more than maybe 30-40% of their stated mAh.


Mixing apples and oranges. Charge/Discharge Current is in mA (miliAmps), Capacity is in mAh (miliAmp hours). Make sure you understand the difference.

When you charge in charge mode the charger will display the accumulated capacity that the battery took before full charge was detected. If the battery was already at full charge then this will be almost nothing. If the battery was fully depleted then this will be more than stated capacity by perhaps 10% on a good cell. If it is a poor quality cell or going defective this could be much more than expected capacity. Charge mode just shows how much the cell took until full charge is detected.

If you want to know what the present actual capacity of the cell is then you must run a charge/test on it. This mode first fully charges the cell, then it fully discharges the cell while measuring current and time, it then fully charges the cell again. At the end of the cycle the "discharged capacity" is displayed. That tells you how much was actually measured from the cell after a full charged. That tells you what you can expect from the cell in use when it is fully charged.

Is this because I charge them too quick at the default 400mA? If I set the charging mA to say 200 or so, will that charge the batteries higher? The actual "charge" always looks good..just the mAh issue.


The best charge rate is between .2C-.5C. If the battery is spec at 2500 mAh then 1C = 2500 mA, .2C = 500 mA. I would charge those at 600 mA for best cell longevity. You could charge up to .5C or 1250 mA if you need them in a hurry. I would not charge at a current higher than .5C without a charger that is specifically designed for that.


Actually, that is my one only real question. If I could figure that out it would be great.

Well one more. I am trying to discharge an AA. It is going very slow. I just now checked the mA number. It was Zero. I don't know why it did that (Probably operator error somewhere) It also shows the charge at 1.14. I do not understand this as well. As I said, a few of us from RR are confused by all this.


When you are charging in charge mode the default display is charge current in mA.
You can press display and see cell voltage in V (volts). This will increase as the cell charges.
You can press display and see accumulated capacity in mAh (miliAmp hours) This will increase as the cell charges.
You can press display and see time in Hours and minutes. This will increase as the cell charges.

When full charge is detected the display will show Full. You can press display to see the ending values. Current will display the trickle charge current.

You can go to battery university to get lots more information about how to care for NiMH batteries.

Thanks,
Robert

Thank you Robert !!!
Did he happen to say what the value is when you do a quick battery check? People have said how to tell if a battery is good is by milliohms 1.5, 1.6 good 1.7, 18 OK 1.9, 2.0 going bad +2.0 is bad. So with the Opus a quick battery check shows numbers from 60 on up to 200+. No decimals or anything. So is this a reading that has to be converted to milliohms?

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Old 03-12-2014, 4:51 PM
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Amazon.com : Maha PowerEx MH-C9000 WizardOne Charger-Analyzer for 4 AA/AAA Batteries : General Use Batteries : Electronics

I just ordered should be here soon. I have 3 sets of batteries 2300mah.
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