Window Pass Through Question

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ThomasMcKean

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Where can I find directions to build a window pass through? All the commercial ones I have seen are so ungodly expensive. :( It seems pretty straight forward but I want to know I am doing it right... :)
 

AgentCOPP1

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Well...

what in the world is a pass-through? Like to run cable through your window, to run something through your computer or what?
 

N0IU

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You really can't do it wrong!

I built my own using a piece of wood about 4" wide and cut it to length to fit the window. What you will need to get is called a double female UHF bulkhead connector. Basically it is just like the connector on the back of your radio, but is about 2" long and threaded down the entire length.

Make sure to prime the wood or buy a pre-primed piece of wood from your hardware store. Buy as many bulkhead connectors as you will need and just drill that many holes in the wood. Make sure your bulkhead connectors have two nuts so you can screw them on from both ends.

Really, its easy!
 

WA0CBW

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You will also need some foam to put at the top of the sash where the top rail of the window meets the glass. Since the window is partly open at the top you will need to fill that gap with some foam. This is also an excellent place to ground the shield of the coax (per the National Electrical Code) to an external ground rod. You can use a large ring terminal or a piece of metal connected to the feedthru. Another way is to mount a coax surge arrestor instead of a UHF feetthru. This provides grounding of the coax braid as well as lightning protection.
BB
 

LtDoc

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I'm another one who made my own window feed through. Same basic idea as the others, board that fit the window opening, drilled holes for a coaxial bulkhead connector (couple of them) and for a ladder line also (couple of holes the right distance apart and sealed with hot glue). Hardest part was weather sealing the thing. Not difficult, just different. It's on a second-floor window so if someone really wanted in it doesn't lock. Not too worried about that for various reasons (non-ya bidness, sort of). If someone tries is I'll hear them, even if I'm not at home... everybody will hear them! ;)
- 'Doc
 

milkman21218

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Not difficult, just different. It's on a second-floor window so if someone really wanted in it doesn't lock.

I put a few screws into the window so that it can not be moved up or down. And yes you will need the foam.
 

dksac2

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I made my own using a board, but finally ended up buying one of the MFJ window pass through one's.

There was only one reason. The only place I could find "N" barrel connectors long enough to go through a board was to buy them from MFJ, I could not find any long enough anywhere else, and as I needed one for my VHF/UHF antenna as well as the 259's, it didn't cost all that much more. MFJ's shipping is expensive and I was placing an order at another place with free shipping, so I may have paid a little more, but I got what I wanted.
Which ever you decide, be sure to put metal on both sides and have a grounding post that you can run wire back to your ground, it's the last place to stop voltage from a lightning strike after any Polyphasers ect.

73's John
 

K5AHH

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PaneRelief

--Hi. Here is the one I use. Just scroll down a little bit. Mounts and accessories. I actually purchased mine from Ebay from the same guy and had him add a few more connectors. Easily adjustable and just plain works. Good luck with whatever route you take, though.
 

dksac2

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Thanks, I know of the site and have ordered from them before, but have not seen the long "N" barrel connectors, I'll have to look closer.

73's John
 

ThomasMcKean

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Further clarification:

Not looking for anything fancy here. Not looking for a board with a gazillion connectors. All I want is a single flat connector to go under the window that I can close the window on. We all have different needs and I get that, but in my own case, just one of those ribbon thingies I think would be best for what i am looking to do. :)
 

w2txb

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I did a "pass through" solution here several years ago and it works pretty well (no problems at all); it uses a couple of plastic outlet boxes mounted on the interior and exterior of the wall, back to back, sort of. Drill holes to accommodate coaxial cables (with appropriate grommets) in the boxes and in the blank metal cover plates, and feed the cables through as needed. Filling in the boxes with expandable insulation (i.e., Great Stuff) before applying the plates will provide a bit of extra insulation.

If you want to remove this in the future, just replace the drilled plates with (undrilled) cover plates.
 

N0IU

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Further clarification:

Not looking for anything fancy here. Not looking for a board with a gazillion connectors. All I want is a single flat connector to go under the window that I can close the window on. We all have different needs and I get that, but in my own case, just one of those ribbon thingies I think would be best for what i am looking to do. :)

You want to avoid closing a window on any kind of cable, especially balanced lines such as ladder line, twin lead, etc. Deforming the cable can have seriously negative effects on the performance of the antenna system. Furthermore, you want to keep unshielded balanced line as far away from metal surfaces as possible because this can also have a detrimental effect on antenna performance.

Get a piece of wood, cut it to fit the window, drill a hole through it and be done with it!

Here is a picture of my homebew passthrough: http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/scottaschultz/window_zps63c826e7.jpg

No, its not pretty, but my window is at ground level and is usually hidden by some sort of vegitation so people from the outside really can't see the towel stuffed in the space between the windows. Besides, my closest neighbor is about 300 yards away so I really don't care what they think! I have also put strips of wood in the top and bottom tracks to keep the window tight against the wood panels and to keep it from being accidentally opened.

And as WA0CBW said, I also use coax surge arrestors that are connected to a ground rod. Even so, when I know sever WX is coming through, I can easily disconnect the coax from the inside.

I think you are making this project a lot harder than it has to be!
 

davedaver1

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Here's how I do it - I have sliding (sash, but metal) windows. I cut a piece of wood to fit about 1-2 inches to fit in the almost closed window. Then, I rip it (a table saw helps here - need to make a very straight cut) from end to end. Clamp the two pieces together and drill a hole for each cable you want to pass through (pick a drill bit that matches the cable size (not the connectors!)). Any size of wire or cable can be accomodated. Also pre-drill for some screws vertically at each end of your wood piece to hold the two halves together. You can now lay in your cables and then screw the two pieces together, using foam or caulking to seal the cables in their holes if desired. Place in the window gap and close the window on it and use security locks to keep the window secured in the closed position. Use foam strips to weather seal any gaps as necessary.

I like these because I can do them vertically or horizontally, fit any size of cable and I don't break the lines with bulkhead connectors or other interruptions in the lines. If I want to add anything, I just take things apart and drill another hole - or make a new one as they are so cheap and easy. They are also completely removable and leave no trace.
 

acyddrop

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Apart from being all thumbs with a saw and a drill there really isn't a way to do this wrong. You can use wood or metal as desired, get some connectors suitable to your needs, take measurements and construct it. This is one of those projects that is hard to screw up.

Sent from my Funky EclipticRez using TapaTalk 4
 

nanZor

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If this is for rx-only, or perhaps qrp, how about a flat Radio-Shack 8-inch coax jumper with f-connectors on each end model #15-247

While not as thin and flat as the comet, it comes pre-smashed for you! :)

I've used them before under wooden windows that didn't need to be absolutely tight (but better than smashing normal coax!), and underneath doors for indoor runs....
 

dksac2

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One last thing I like to do for lightning protection with the pass through boards besides grounding them is to put the metal caps over the ends of the coax connectors on the inside after I have removed all the coax from the board.

Would it really help if high voltage came through the coax, I don't have a clue, but I keep getting this image in my head of a giant spark shooting from the center of the fittings and hope the caps will ground the electricity back to the metal plates, back through the grounding wire to my single point ground that is very close. If it does not work, it didn't cost much. Not much scares me, but I do have a great respect for lightning.

John
 
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