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Electronics - Got the newest gadget and want to discuss it? Your VCR still flashing 12:00? Handy with resistors, capacitors, ICs, and soldering irons? This is your place.

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2016, 3:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbm View Post
Where I come from, that's called 'Common Sense'.

My daughters had their own set of tools and a battery brush by the time they were 16.

Rich
As has become common knowledge, common sense isn't anymore.
Your daughters are very lucky to have a high quality father.
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Old 12-05-2016, 3:53 PM
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Battery brushes are considered evil these days. The "good" heavy brushes tear grooves in the surface of the lead post, the battery terminal clamps don't smooth those back down. Now moisture and air and everything else collect in the grooves and corrosion follows. Ensuring the battery guy will need to come back in a year. (Gee.)

Last I heard, extrafine steel wool followed by "polishing" then down smooth, i.e. 400+ grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, was recommended. Finished off with an anti-corrosion gel "just in case" before the terminal clamps went back on.

One plus to AGMs, they just don't have that problem.
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Old 12-05-2016, 4:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Rred View Post
Battery brushes are considered evil these days. The "good" heavy brushes tear grooves in the surface of the lead post, the battery terminal clamps don't smooth those back down. Now moisture and air and everything else collect in the grooves and corrosion follows. Ensuring the battery guy will need to come back in a year. (Gee.)

Last I heard, extrafine steel wool followed by "polishing" then down smooth, i.e. 400+ grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, was recommended. Finished off with an anti-corrosion gel "just in case" before the terminal clamps went back on.

One plus to AGMs, they just don't have that problem.
It is never wise to let one's tools destroy that which they are meant to remediate. In my experience, most of the problem with lead acid batteries is caused by out gassing of electrolyte which then settles atop the battery and creeps into the space between the terminal and the clamp. The problem is severely exacerbated by cool and cold temperatures, which prevent the electrolyte from drying out, and it turns into a gel that aids the creep. The only way to prevent this is by wiping the top of the battery every chance you get. Most "anti-corrosion" gels are nothing more than petroleum jelly, which works by preventing the acid from infiltrating. The felt donuts work a little better until they are the same pH as the electrolyte. The premise of no maintenance batteries is a fiction if they are ever, even slightly, over charged, IMO.
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Old 12-05-2016, 5:03 PM
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I wouldn't recommend using any battery brush on the battery terminal.
That would just 'grind' it down. Making it smaller and smaller and smaller ....

A quick wipe with fine sandpaper is all it takes.
More is NOT better.

But, the inside of the cable terminal end requires something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-BS1-Bat...+Service+Brush

And then, spray with a Protectant similar to this: (The stuff I use looks like a purple varnish)
https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Musc...2%3A2661618011

I don't know if they add much protection, but I do also use Anti-Corrosion Fiber Washers.

After that kind of treatment, I've NEVER, EVER had a connection problem.

Rich

By the way, in my experience, about 1/4 of the problems I've seen have been caused by bad connections.
The others were old or abused batteries. Typically with a bad cell or two.
Some, allowed to be discharged and frozen. Never to work again.

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Last edited by rbm; 12-05-2016 at 5:13 PM..
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Old 12-05-2016, 5:13 PM
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I've learned to use silicon dielectric grease (aka "high temperature brake grease" and a few other names) on almost every electrical connection. It is the same thing sold as ignition grease, except that's about $4 per 1/2 ounce and this is $4 for eight ounces.(G) Unlike petroleum grease, it is non conductive and will not cause the extra battery drain that migrating Vaseline films will cause. The "varnish" and purple spray and all work, as seals. But the grease goes right on the contacts, and keeps out all moisture and oxidation.

If I'm planning on a real long-term connection, I'll be sparing with the grease, and make sure the exterior is all clean and bare. Then I'll coat the whole thing with about 6 coats of 'liquid lectric' to build some thickness to it. That stuff peels off easily, but bonds tightly. First time I did that some highly certified mechanic starts to rip it off saying "That's the problem, it has to be all corroded in there" and I just stared at him while he looked at the pristine metal he'd just exposed.
If I'm planning to open something up within the next couple of years, I'll generally skip the liquid lectric, it just takes too long to wait for each locating to dry.

Many ways to skin a cat. The only really important thing, is to skin it before cooking it.(G)
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Old 06-02-2017, 6:21 PM
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I see that the image in my post #18 above no longer displays properly.

Here's a link to the original image again.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...x.jpg~original

Rich
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