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ICOM Land Mobile Radio - Discussion forum for ICOM land mobile radio equipment such as the IC-F series radios. Please do not post amateur radio topics here.

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 8:53 PM
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https://www.amazon.ca/Truck-Automoti...ords=12v+relay

Something equivalent...
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 9:04 PM
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Thanks found that one to... even eBay was expencive for the other one

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:15 PM
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Gezz just went to order that one and it was $30 plus by the time I got shipping on it and 2 months away.

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:24 PM
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Whats with the 2 months anyway!? Things come from China here to me in 2-3 weeks normally.

I only recommended the Tyco because I have personal experience with that particular relay, with no complaints.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:30 PM
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Not sure... think I'll just run to the local truck shop tomorrow...

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:36 PM
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Sounds good. You know what to look for at any rate...

Time for me to get horizontal. Goodnight sir.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:40 PM
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Yep thanks for the help

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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2017, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrock View Post
Not sure... think I'll just run to the local truck shop tomorrow...

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Canadian Tire will have 40 amp 12 volt relays pretty cheap. They are common in cars and will run continuously for years. They're often used for switching higher amp loads like headlights, auxiliary lighting, etc.
It'll have the fast-on type connectors, but done right those won't give you any issues.

Pilot Automotive 40 Amp Relay | Canadian Tire
$5.49 cdn


$5 more and you can get the harness:
ProStart Relay with Harness | Canadian Tire

These will work fine for what you are doing, one radio switching on/off with ignition.
If you plan on adding more radios, then you'll really want something bigger.
These are not top of the line units, but they'll work fine.

Other option is to get something like a Lind timer. I've been picking them up on e-Bay for $20 or so. Here's one for $15 + shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LIND-Automob...oAAOSwOgdYo2sB

Benefit to something like that is you can set it to leave your radio on for a set amount of time after you shut the ignition off.
Some fancier units have a low voltage shutdown, too.
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Old 05-02-2017, 6:43 AM
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Just go to the auto parts store and get a starter solenoid for the older Fords, the fender mounted ones.

Frank
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2017, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FKimble View Post
Just go to the auto parts store and get a starter solenoid for the older Fords, the fender mounted ones.

Frank
That's an option, but they are not all rated for continuous duty. While the contacts will handle hundreds of amps, the coils often won't like being energized for long periods.

If you are looking at these sorts of solenoids, make sure you get one that is rated for "continuous duty".
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Old 05-29-2017, 4:39 PM
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WOW! Way too many complex answers. Here is the KISS solution.

Proper grounding is necessary both for power and noise. Icom, et al, say to run power cables direct to the battery, and they pack new radios with a fused ground power cable. It is possible that if other negative leads come off of the battery the entire car may try and ground through the radio and antenna coax. Otherwise the power lead negative fuse is no help in US vehicles, as absent other failures the radio will ground through the antenna or mount if the negative fuse blows or the ground wire is disconnected. I have seen melted antenna coax due to a ground wire failure.

I ignore the above and cut that negative fuse off, and make a short, good solid ground to the chassis close to the radio on the theory that power will flow through 3' of 12GA wire and the entire chassis better than 15' of unbalanced ground wire. (Noise reduction via twisting/balancing the power lead is negated by the chassis anyway. See audio engineering resources if you don't know the difference between balanced and un-balanced.) In today's plastic cars, look for a real chassis point stud that has several ground wires already attached. Next to the door or behind ankle-level kick panels are good laces to start. There's grounded metal in there somewhere.

Yeah, not what the manufacturers say. Don't care. It works just fine. Plus, I have never understood why a person would want to ground a radio by running the ground wire past/through the electrically noisy-est parts of an environment.

Google BUSSMANN BP/HHTR-RP and spend ten bucks. Several vendors make the same thing. Make sure you get the right type for your vehicle- there are 3 (or 4) sizes, ATO (large), ATM (Medium), Mini-ATM (Mini) and Low Profile Mini-ATM. A regular Mini will fit into a Low Profile Mini-ATM slot, but the fuse panel cover may not go back on. There is also a 3-leg Mini-ATM. Don't go there. The little brass tabs that fit under a fuse are a joke. Don't go there either.

50w radios average 8-10A in TX. As long as the voltage at the radio doesn't drop below 11.5V it will TX just fine. 99% of the time you are in RX anyway, at 0.3A. Yeah, I know the radio comes with a 15A fuse and the fuse tap specs are "10A" and the 4" wire is 16 or 14GA, but I have put hundreds of these in without a hint of overheating under load.

Open the fuse panel inside the cabin/cab. Use a test light to find a 15/20/30A fuse that goes on/off with the key AND is off while the starter motor is engaged. That will keep the radio de-powered while cranking, and turn it off when the key is off. Pull the original fuse.

CAUTION: Junction/fuse panels are supplied for high amps, but think about which buss you are tapping. Some are always hot, others are key-switched. Use a higher amp fuse slot for accessory, seat heat or blower. Don't pick the 1A EMC/Delicate-Sensitive-Electronics fuse. Again, hundred of installs done this way, and no issues. I suppose that if ECM's or body computers don't like your install, you should find another fuse slot to tap - something I have never had to do.

Put the tap in with just the top radio fuse installed. Make sure the tap is pointing the right way with the leg opposite the wire connected to the buss side. I put a blue 15A fuse in the tap and discard the power cable in-line fuse . If it is pointed the right way, the lead will power on and off as desired. If it doesn't, turn it over. When that's right, put the original fuse in the lower tap position and connect the radio power red B+ wire. If you did it right, the radio will be powered through the top fuse on the tap body and the original circuit is powered through the bottom. No harm, no foul.

(FYI: Icom builds radios with an "Idiot Protection Diode" inserted backwards between the power B+ and B-.. That diode will cause a 15A fuse to blow if polarity is reversed. DON'T put in a bigger fuse!)

Yeah, I know instructions say direct to the battery. That is a holdover from when TX would dim headlights, and receiver front ends were lousy.

For a normal install, that's pretty much it. I can do a standard SIlverado in fifteen minutes plus antenna. One word of caution: THINK FIRST and keep the red B+ wire from vibrating/chafing/slicing over a sharp corner.


Exception 1: Higher amp draw transmitters and folks who talk non-stop without drawing a breath. Now you are going to put in an appropriate relay and fuse/wire to the battery, but you can still operate the relay from a tap as above. A relay capacity about 200% of the TX amperage is fine. More is overkill.

I like the AC-DC Industries MZL-series smart-timer-low-voltage-disconnects. Other 'smart' relay options include the Havis CG-X. Powerwerx APS-12, Lind LPT, Newmar and others. Check those options before buying a parts-store relay.

ANOTHER CAUTION: I have repaired dozens of emergency service vehicles where radio failure was caused by an external power relay problem, or a bad ground. The more parts and wire in place, the more likely one is going to fail. You have been warned.

Exception 2: You are bound and determined to use the "Ignition Sense" wire to turn the radio on and off. Caution: the ignition sense circuit in the radio will still draw power - off isn't really off - so if you don't start the vehicle occasionally it will still zap your battery.

Exception 3: Some radio manufacturers require an Ignition Sense lead connection to turn on the radio. You're on your own. Icom does not, and makes that a programming option. Re-purposed Icoms already set up with Ignition Sense can be de-programmed easier than wired to accommodate.

Option 1: purchase an OPC-617 cable, a DB-9 connector and shell, solder an appropriate Ignition Sense wire into DB-9, Pin 1, and run it to a switched, fused ignition source. Plug the OPC-whatever into J6 inside the radio. (J6 is a white 11-pin connector located opposite the antenna connector near the audio amp transistor on most radios. Pin 11 is at the front corner of the radio, pin 1 is at the back nearer the power leads.)

Some Icom mobiles come with a single wire hanging out the back, originally terminated in a bullet connector. That is the Ignition Sense lead.

Either way, you must program the radio to respond to B+ on the Ignition Sense Lead,. Some radios will also have a firmware timer that keeps the radio on X-seconds after the ignition is turned off. Cool feature if you like that sort of thing. The end result will be that ignition switched B+ power will be delivered to J6-Pin2.

Option 2: Re-read the last part of Option 1 and act according to your electrical skills. Only try to find one JST 11ZR-8M-P female mating connector if you are a very patient glutton for punishment.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2017, 11:35 PM
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Wow that is a heck of a write up. Thanks for all the info... I agree I never liked the fact that they instruct to run all that power cable past all electronics strait to battery. But like everyone I followed directions...lol.. I think I already have power tap some ware around here. Just out of curiosity why select a source that does not power up while starter is engaged? I think I just going to do as u suggest I don't like all that extra wire kicking around

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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2017, 12:29 AM
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Gezzz I am slow...now that it's frigging cold out I'd figure I should start and finish this project...lol

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