Ford Escape 2012

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fireboat61

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Here are some photos of my newly completed install of my mobile shack.

1. Havis Vehicle specific console
2. CDM 1250 x 2 ( vhf 136-174, uhf 450-520)
3. Gre Psr 600 ( Digital )
4. Gre Psr 410 ( Analog )
5. 3 NMO Antennas
1. low profile Motorola 700-800 mhz antenna
2. low profile Antennx uhf ( 450-470 mhz)
3. Motorola vhf antenna

The power source I established is surely overkill for my needs because I am not transmitting. I used 8 gauge wire with a 40 amp reset-able circuit breaker. I used a solenoid to allow protection on draw from my battery, I also used 2 terminal posts to distribute the power. My entire system is wired off my ignition circuit.
 

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KC0CSE

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Oct 13, 2006
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KANSAS CITY NORTH....
Here are some photos of my newly completed install of my mobile shack.

1. Havis Vehicle specific console
2. CDM 1250 x 2 ( vhf 136-174, uhf 450-520)
3. Gre Psr 600 ( Digital )
4. Gre Psr 410 ( Analog )
5. 3 NMO Antennas
1. low profile Motorola 700-800 mhz antenna
2. low profile Antennx uhf ( 450-470 mhz)
3. Motorola vhf antenna

The power source I established is surely overkill for my needs because I am not transmitting. I used 8 gauge wire with a 40 amp reset-able circuit breaker. I used a solenoid to allow protection on draw from my battery, I also used 2 terminal posts to distribute the power. My entire system is wired off my ignition circuit.

which one is the 800mhz antenna ?......
 

fireboat61

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ok the one that is the tallest that looks like a cell antenna..wanted to make sure...thanks

Sorry I was not clearer. The fowardmost small black low profile antenna is my 800 mhz antenna. The silver longer antenna I am using as my all band antenna. Surprisingly that antenna which is only 10 inches receives low band very well.
 

Rob_K

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Great install. Just a question/comment...

Along with your main circuit breaker, do you have fuses on the power leads for each radio or scanner? Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe a breaker can be too slow to "react" to protect electronics. The fuses on the power cords would offer the protection you need.
 

fireboat61

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Great install. Just a question/comment...

Along with your main circuit breaker, do you have fuses on the power leads for each radio or scanner? Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe a breaker can be too slow to "react" to protect electronics. The fuses on the power cords would offer the protection you need.

Yes I used all of the power cables included with the install kits. Those cables have in line fuses.
 

W4KRR

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Old thread I know, but I just acquired a 2012 Escape (I also dislike the 2013 redesign!)

Anyway, a few antenna questions: Did you install the antennas yourself? If so, how did you run the coax? Did you remove or drop the headliner, or just fish the cable through?

Mine has the moonroof, so that is an added restriction.

Thanks!
 

mmckenna

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Old thread I know, but I just acquired a 2012 Escape (I also dislike the 2013 redesign!)

Anyway, a few antenna questions: Did you install the antennas yourself? If so, how did you run the coax? Did you remove or drop the headliner, or just fish the cable through?

Mine has the moonroof, so that is an added restriction.

Thanks!

I've got a VHF CDM-1550 in my 2009 hybrid (same body style as yours). It has a permanent mount NMO antenna located in the center of the roof, and has the moon roof.
Keeping the antenna out of the way of the moon roof retraction path is not hard to do. If you hook a tape measure over the very back edge of the roof, where it meets the rear hatch, measure forward 25 inches. That is your forward limit. At about 28 inches, there is a lateral roof brace that needs to be avoided. Forward of the roof brace is the moon roof zone. My NMO is centered at 24.5 inches from the rear edge, and centered in the left/right plane.




For routing the coaxial cable, I removed the rear child seat restraints near the rear of the roof near the back hatch, as well as the rear dome light. I think there may have been some other clips, too. Once I had those out of the way, I was able to drop the rear part of the headliner and get enough room to get my hand up to the underside of the antenna.
I routed the coax over to the driver side of the vehicle. I used gaffers tape (think duct tape on steroids) to secure the coax to keep it from moving/vibrating/rattling. Once over to the "C" pillar (the one behind the rear door), I had to fish the cable over the TOP of the side curtain airbag. It is critical to get it over the top, between the roof skin and the air bag. Once that was done, I was able to drop the coax down behind the trim covering the internal C pillar to the cable trough that runs under the door sill. From there I ran the coax forward to about the center of the drivers seat. From there I was able to fish the coax under the drivers seat and to the center console.

I haven't had any issues with this antenna install, other than a few scraped knuckles during the work. It's been up there since early 2009. I don't use the roof rack, so that isn't an issue. The 18 inch VHF whip does tap the garage door when it's driven in, and the occasional parking garage, but no issues. With the proximity to the lateral roof brace, it's actually a pretty strong mount.

Hardest part of the install was running the power feed up the battery. Getting through the firewall on the drivers side was a bit of a task.

I was able to power the CDM-1550 directly off the battery, as well as find an ignition switched source under the center console for the CDM's ignition switch lead. The RF deck is located in the very bottom part of the center console, under the arm rest, and under the removable bin. The control head is mounted next to the shifter:


The bracket for the control head is bolted down with # 10 screws about 2 inches long over the small depression next to the shifter. The control cable is run through a hole drilled in the bottom under neath the bracket. Mic hanger is next to the nav screen. The stock speaker on the CDM-1550 head is plenty loud enough to be heard.

Let me know if you have any specific questions on the install. I can snap some more pictures if needed.
 

W4KRR

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Thanks for the response! Helpful information. I plan to install a Yaesu FT-8900 and a Bearcat BC996T using the Uniden Remote Head. I am at this point still trying to figure out where to install the heads and remote units. I am considering the storage bin under the rear cargo area carpet for the radios themselves. One remote head will go in the tray area forward of the shifter; the other one may go where you mounted yours. The speakers, maybe on the side of the center console or under the passenger seat.
 

mmckenna

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I originally had a FT-7800 mounted in there:


Worked OK. Speaker was mounted under the front passenger seat:

As a temporary measure, I mounted the speaker to a 4" x 4" electrical junction box cover plate. The plate was slid under the center console. Idea was to make sure it worked and was loud enough before I permanently mounted it. It worked well, and the mounting turned out to be just fine, so I never changed it as long as I had the 7800 in there.

When I put the CDM in, I removed the speaker since the one on the control head was loud enough.

The RF deck is down in the bottom of the center console:

Worked just fine. Enough air in there to keep it cool. Our Escape has the hybrid battery under the rear cargo area, so I didn't have that as an option.
 
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