GM truck

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Sierraz71

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Mar 12, 2018
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I just finished the installation of a CB in my truck, had some grounding issues, but have it all sorted out now.

You have a good looking install [emoji106]
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Sierraz71

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CB location looks familiar.

https://forums.radioreference.com/members/ravenkeeper-albums-my-radio-setup.html

'15 Silverado Z71. Used a 9" mount bracket to support my CB & scanner, going to reallocate the magnet mount from my phone for my mic. Still working a ground/HIGH-SWR issue, but hope to have that remedied when this storm system finishes blowing through.
Soooo.... Funny thing Raven, my post was done as a reply to your post. Maybe because I just joined, a moderator made it into a completely new post, dunno [emoji16].

But yes, I thought it interesting we both came up with the same solution to the mounting issues [emoji6]

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Ravenkeeper

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Soooo.... Funny thing Raven, my post was done as a reply to your post. Maybe because I just joined, a moderator made it into a completely new post, dunno [emoji16].

But yes, I thought it interesting we both came up with the same solution to the mounting issues [emoji6]

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Where's the "LIKE" button?
 

SCPD

QRT
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Hope you have that CB to the battery and a short to the frame ground.
Cigarette lighter is a bad idea.
 

K7MFC

WRAA720
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I agree that using the cigarette lighter is not a great idea. For everyone saying they power their radios like this and have no issues, I'm sure that's true. But you're creating a situation that can really do some damage to your vehicle. Most cigarette lighter outlets in a car are on a circuit that is also powering other accessory outlets, convenience lights, and other accessories. And while your CB radio probably won't draw more than a few amps, if something were to short or the ground becomes poor and there's a power spike, you risk damaging all the wiring and everything on that circuit.

So yes, 99.9% of the time, you should be fine powering that CB on the cigarette lighter outlet. But if for some reason you draw too many amps, you could destroy the very thin gauge accessory circuit wiring behind the dash. The fuse in the cig plug for the CB may protect the CB itself, but it's not going to prevent damage to anything else on that circuit.

As is often repeated in these forums, the best way (and I would argue, the right way) is to run a dedicated circuit for your radios, right from the battery, using the correct gauge wire for your application. And it won't look ugly.
 
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Sierraz71

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When did automakers stop using fuses on their circuits?

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radio3353

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.. .But if for some reason you draw too many amps, you could destroy the very thin gauge accessory circuit wiring behind the dash...

I don't understand this statement. The fuse or breaker protecting the lighter socket and anything else on that circuit will be sized to protect the wiring. Saying this another way, the wiring will be of sufficient gauge to handle the load the fuse or breaker will allow. Did I miss something? Thanks.
 

K7MFC

WRAA720
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Yes of course the accessory circuit will be on a fuse as assembled by the manufacturer - I'm talking worst case scenario here. The cigarette lighter may be able to handle a 4-5 amp draw from a CB radio, but what if the plastic outlet housing comes loose and creates a bad connection. Or the radio is malfunctioning, and say 10 amps of current is flowing - not enough to trip a fuse but enough so that the wires get really hot, melt a bit and create a bad connection behind the dash somewhere you can't see. Again - these are hyperbolic, way out there scenarios, but not entirely out of the realm of possibility... The accessory circuit has the potential to be a lot noisier too, so why not just do the job right (and make it look good)? If putting the time and effort into installing a radio and antenna, why stop a few yards short and use the cigarette lighter plug?
 

Sierraz71

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Yes of course the accessory circuit will be on a fuse as assembled by the manufacturer - I'm talking worst case scenario here. The cigarette lighter may be able to handle a 4-5 amp draw from a CB radio, but what if the plastic outlet housing comes loose and creates a bad connection, or the radio is malfunctioning, and say 10 amps of current is flowing and the wire got really hot, melted a bit and creates a bad connection behind the dash somewhere you can't see. Again - these are hyperbolic, way out there scenarios... The accessory circuit has the potential to be a lot noisier too - so why not just do the job right (and make it look good)? If putting the time and effort was into installing a radio and antenna, why stop a few yards short and use the cigarette lighter plug?
Because I don't want to.... Pretty simple. I don't live in what if fairy land [emoji849] oy

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Ravenkeeper

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Throwing the "BS Flag"

Your knowledge should be based on things that you have personally witnessed, experimented with, or tested, and NOT off of what others have said "can/will happen."

I agree that using the cigarette lighter is not a great idea. For everyone saying they power their radios like this and have no issues, I'm sure that's true. But you're creating a situation that can really do some damage to your vehicle. Most cigarette lighter outlets in a car are on a circuit that is also powering other accessory outlets, convenience lights, and other accessories. And while your CB radio probably won't draw more than a few amps, if something were to short or the ground becomes poor and there's a power spike, you risk damaging all the wiring and everything on that circuit.

So yes, 99.9% of the time, you should be fine powering that CB on the cigarette lighter outlet. But if for some reason you draw too many amps, you could destroy the very thin gauge accessory circuit wiring behind the dash. The fuse in the cig plug for the CB may protect the CB itself, but it's not going to prevent damage to anything else on that circuit.

As is often repeated in these forums, the best way (and I would argue, the right way) is to run a dedicated circuit for your radios, right from the battery, using the correct gauge wire for your application. And it won't look ugly.

For all you and I know, the "0.1%," that may have had this happen to them, may have over-amped the replacement inline/blade fuse, and then put too much draw on the wire/circuit, instead of figuring out why it was "popping," let alone finding the correct fuse to replace the blown one. If you blow a 2A inline fuse, REPLACE IT WITH A 2A INLINE FUSE!!! Same goes for blade fuses, replace a "5" with a "5."

All of you "NAH-sayers," out there, need to show me absolute, solid, physical proof of these "bad things" happening.

I agree with call_sign_null. A useful page/site to bookmark is: Wiring & Grounding

Why should I bookmark something that the author obviously did NOT feel comfortable/confident enough to put his/her name to?


All of you "connect directly to the battery" types will get blood from a stone, before you can convince me to connect directly to the battery. That "0.1%" will not convince me, either. Besides, when I get to wherever I'm going, I want to turn off the key, and NOT have to remember to turn off my CB, my scanner, etc, especially when I'm running behind/late for work, or whatever.
 

03msc

RF is RF
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The author is listed on every page - it's k0bg (call sign, you know?). Check the domain name. He's active on some other forums and consistently provides input and help to people who are doing installs, encouraging them to do them right. Thus his website, created to help.

You are free to do it wrong, though; it's your vehicle and equipment you're risking.

It's just free advice, which is one reason Radio Reference forums exist.
 
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