To drill or not to drill

[pddispatcher]

I know that a hole does not affect trade in values or whatever. I do not have any intention in getting rid of my current car but I do have a couple questions.

As of now, I am using a trunk lip mount with a 5/8 Wave NMO Antenex antenna. I feel I get good performance out of it but of course I always want to do better.

Since my car has a sunroof mounting the antenna on the roof would be impossible, So, my question to you the experts would be...

If I drilled a hole in the center of the trunk on my Monte Carlo SS, would I notice an improvement immediately compared to the trunk lip? Is it worth the hassle? What size hole do you recommend?

 

[ke5lvt]

A roof mt would be better than a trunk lip mt. most antennas use a 3/4 inch mount. you may see some improvement in areas with weak signal.

 

[burner50]

A roof mt would be better than a trunk lip mt. most antennas use a 3/4 inch mount. you may see some improvement in areas with weak signal.

Excellent job reading the original post! :roll:

Your performance will probably increase with the fact that you will have a better ground plane.

I drilled one in finally, bur only so I could get it on the roof of my Impala (with a sunroof).

Why cant you place it towards the back of your monte on the roof?

 

[pddispatcher]

I guess I would if I already didn't have an XM antenna ( factory ) Mounted in that area.

I really don't want to get it on the roof as it wouldn't be straight.

If I was to do it would have to be on the trunk

 

[fcfd988]

It is not impossible to do a roof mount with a sunroof. Recently NSPD and myself installed 6 roof mounts in his Explorer with a sunroof.

Check it out: http://forums.radioreference.com/pi...tup/150336-2005-explorer-limited-install.html

 

[AK9R]

The attached diagram is from the Larsen antenna catalog. It compares varous antenna mount types and locations on a vehicle.

The OP didn't say if his existing trunk lip mount is on the center or the side of the trunk lid and that may make a difference. However, the difference between a trunk lip mount on the side and a permanent mount in the middle of the trunk lid is about 0.7dB. Is that a huge difference in the real world? Probably not.

What's telling, though, is the 2.1dB difference between a permanent mount on the roof and a permanent mount on the trunk lid.

 

[pddispatcher]

...

My trunk lip mount is installed at the back part of the trunk at the glass.

Is it really worth the hassle guys?

 

[newsphotog]

After a year playing around with glass-mount and trunk lip-mount antennas, I finally took the dive and drilled the holes in my 2004 Impala. I figured I've already got this car and I'm just going to drive the CRAP out of the car, and it's not going to be worth a nickel after I put the car through hell and back.

I got so carried away with the drill, I drilled four holes... I only have three antennas! (Just kidding, the fourth will be for future use.)

Yes, I have noticed an improvement. I was very surprised the first time I turned everything on and used the equipment. And it even looks a lot better. I think I am pleased more with the aesthetic factor than I am with the performance factor.

 

[paramedszaf]

Since we are talking about to drill or not to drill can someone tell me (or give me an idea) how to remove the headline in a 06' Silverado?

 

[SCPD]

 

[zz0468]

Interesting diagram... Keep in mind that in FM communications, 3 db is barely noticeable if you happen to be looking for it. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference no matter where the antenna is mounted.

 

[prcguy]

You never remove the headliner, just pull the rubber trim at the top of the door to gain access to the underside of the roof. If your nervous about drilling through the headliner slip a piece of sheet metal or plastic under the prospective hole and that will prevent the drill bit from catching the headliner.

You can then pull the rubber trim around the front window pillar or side pillar (depending where the radio is) and tuck the coax under the plastic trim all the way under the dash or to the floor. If you go the center pillar to the floor you then pull the rubber trim around the lower door sill, remove the trim and run the coax towards the radio.
The whole process can take 5 minutes including drilling the hole if you sufficiently map out the car.
prcguy

Since we are talking about to drill or not to drill can someone tell me (or give me an idea) how to remove the headline in a 06' Silverado?

 

[W3MOT]

Since we are talking about to drill or not to drill can someone tell me (or give me an idea) how to remove the headline in a 06' Silverado?

If you're mounting in the center of the roof, you're removing the headliner. There's no way around it. It's very simple. Once you have all of the accessories off, the headliner will practically fall into your hands. I always start off with the front. Remove the sun visors, overhead console and holy-**** handles. You'll also need to remove the A, B, and C post panels as well. very easy. Those are the panels that always give you blind spots when your driving. (Flat blade screw driver will do the trick. Just be very careful.) Everything is snap fastened in, meaning that all you have to do is give it a slight punch to pop it back into place. So keep that in mind when your removing them. It wont take much force.

A rule of advice; if it's mounted to the roof or the posts, it's gotta go. You'll also need to remove all seatbelt's, etc. Dropping the headliner is a pain in the ass. But you'll have to tackle it if you want a professional look and good performance. It's easier in cars, and easiest in Crown Victorias and Explorers. But that's for a different topic.

 

[prcguy]

I've done over 1,000 professional radio and antenna installs in my early career and I never once removed a headliner, that's an insane thing to do. It wastes time and you will more than likely kink or damage the headliner. I could have 5 antennas installed and coax run perfectly while W3MOT is still struggling with the headliner and spending time on the phone with the dealer pricing all the parts he broke .

Once the rubber door seal is partially removed around the door your working near you can easily see the underside of the roof area where you want to drill by gently making a space between the roof and headliner.

You also gently pry the interior pillar trim away from the pillar (with a screwdriver or trim tool) just enough to stuff the coax under it and follow existing wires inside the pillar and eventually along wire troughs under the door sill if you used the center pillar.

You should avoid measuring the exact center of the roof with a tape measure, the exterior window trim center, the mirror and other supposedly centered items that catch your eye are not exactly centered and will make the perfectly centered antenna look offset. Place a screw or bolt sticking up in the roof area where you want to drill and eyeball from a distance to center it up with existing references that catch your eye. The antenna will then be centered with the things that appear to designate the center of the roof.


prcguy

If you're mounting in the center of the roof, you're removing the headliner. There's no way around it. It's very simple. Once you have all of the accessories off, the headliner will practically fall into your hands. I always start off with the front. Remove the sun visors, overhead console and holy-**** handles. You'll also need to remove the A, B, and C post panels as well. very easy. Those are the panels that always give you blind spots when your driving. (Flat blade screw driver will do the trick. Just be very careful.) Everything is snap fastened in, meaning that all you have to do is give it a slight punch to pop it back into place. So keep that in mind when your removing them. It wont take much force.

A rule of advice; if it's mounted to the roof or the posts, it's gotta go. You'll also need to remove all seatbelt's, etc. Dropping the headliner is a pain in the ass. But you'll have to tackle it if you want a professional look and good performance. It's easier in cars, and easiest in Crown Victorias and Explorers. But that's for a different topic.

 

[W3MOT]

In the cars that I've done installs on, the headliner is curved. (just like the roof.) It's not a straight piece of board that you can peek into and see everything in. You can't peek into the headliner and see the underside of the roof. All you'll see is more headliner because of the way the liner curves with the roof. And even if it didn't, you're not going to be able to slip your hand into an inch worth of space. you'll F up the headliner. Not to mention all the cuts and scrapes you're going to have on your arm from the fiberglass. (which is what the other side of the headliner is made up of. And also not to mention that in some cars the handles and interior lights are in the way. You might be able to get away with doing that on a car with the antenna towards the back (a foot-or-so away from the back window.. maybe further.) in a Taurus or something, but not an SUV.

You and I have probably done installs on different cars. But any of the cars I've worked on were not that way. Believe me, I've tried it. I'd do anything before dropping the headliner. Keep in mind though, I didn't do just radios.

 

[ve3zo]

Best thing I ever did was drill my Chrysler Concorde. No more pinched coax when the trunk closes. I did mine over a year ago, never leaked from day one.

I'm not going to get any thing for it on a trade so the permanent hone in the trunk was not really a big deal either.

 

[prcguy]

Curved molded headliners are the norm today and in a few cases I had to slip a long several inch wide 1/8" thick plastic feeler along the underside of the roof to probe for roof braces and wiring.

The worst I have encountered recently is a new Toyota Tundra extended cab where I pulled the rubber door seal along the headliner and air bag detonators were staring me in the face over all doors.

After a bit of thinking and careful probing from the rear window up into the headliner, the truck succumbed to the drill and is now sporting a spiffy new antenna.
prcguy

In the cars that I've done installs on, the headliner is curved. (just like the roof.) It's not a straight piece of board that you can peek into and see everything in. You can't peek into the headliner and see the underside of the roof. All you'll see is more headliner because of the way the liner curves with the roof. And even if it didn't, you're not going to be able to slip your hand into an inch worth of space. you'll F up the headliner. Not to mention all the cuts and scrapes you're going to have on your arm from the fiberglass. (which is what the other side of the headliner is made up of. And also not to mention that in some cars the handles and interior lights are in the way. You might be able to get away with doing that on a car with the antenna towards the back (a foot-or-so away from the back window.. maybe further.) in a Taurus or something, but not an SUV.

You and I have probably done installs on different cars. But any of the cars I've worked on were not that way. Believe me, I've tried it. I'd do anything before dropping the headliner. Keep in mind though, I didn't do just radios.

 

[mr_tunz]

I have 3 roof mount ant in my roof wash 1 once a week for 7 yrs now never a problem. By the way it's washed with a high pressure anutomatic not a bucket and garden hose.

 

[ke5lvt]

I have installed around 3000+ roof mounted antennas over the years on many types or cars and trucks. There is no need to remove the headliner. I have 8 on my chevy truck and did not remove the headliner.

 

[Radioman96p71]

Just another idea, you could always use a 3/8" NMO ,mount. They are much easier to install, require a much smaller hole and work exactly the same. In most cases they are the same price too. I installed 3 on my pickup this weekend and it went flawlessly...

KCØGIK