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07 Silverado NMO DRill

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pddispatcher

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Nov 8, 2004
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I have a 2007 Silverado LTZ Ext Cab.

Looking for help/ideas on drilling the NMO.

How hard is it?
How to pull the coax through?
Do I have to remove the headliner?

Any other answers I need but didn't ask?
 

mr_tunz

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It is not to hard to due. But some advise go to the hardware store and get a uni bit or sometimes called a step bit. They run between 20-40 bucks depend on ur store.

What I usally do it just go straight above the dome light in the truck.Drill your hole the correct size the ant says too and then deburr the hole and sand the paint off of the inside to get a good ground. Usally there is enough room to snake the coax accross the headliner and to the edge where the weather striping is. Then you can run it behind the weather striping. And make sure you center it the best you can from side to side. Just makes it look better, If you have any more question I can help you. I have but a couple hundred ant in roofs over the years.
 
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pddispatcher

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I kinda wanted to do it in the back towards the 3rd brake light.

Any suggestions

I have a sunroof in the truck.
 

pddispatcher

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I kinda wanted to do it in the back towards the 3rd brake light.

Any suggestions

I have a sunroof in the truck.
 

mr_tunz

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In that case if you watch the you tube video that would help you because he has a sunroof in the truck. Sometime I have also removed the third taillight and installed it in the roof from there. There usally is a couple of inchs of room there.
 

pddispatcher

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Can you explain remove the 3rd taillight and install from there?

I'm confused now.

I want to go in the center just above the 3rd taillight towards the back of the roof.
 
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mr_tunz

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If you remove the third tail light or reffered to as third brake light you have acsess to the roof from behind there. NO need to pull the headliner. There usally is a couple of screws from the outside you to remove. The same process as if youhad to replace the builb in there. If you stand in the bed of the truck you can see the screws.
 

mr_tunz

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There will be holes in there for the wiring for the light just follow them right in and follow the rout of the wiring if you can or go above the back window and above the headliner and follow the weather striping to the fron of the truck. . Sometimes there is a gromet there so you may have to either make another hole in the medal or use what is there. But if you make a hole be sure to put a gromet in the hole with the cable. Also I forgot to mention when removing the light be gental with the weather stripping around the light so you dont have a leak.
 

davidgcet

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even though many folks use them, i personally don't like the unibit because there is too much risk of it hitting something inside the roof. drill too far forward and you will end up with a nice hole in the headliner! this HS34 - Antenex 3/4" X-ACT Hole Saw or a similar 3/4" hole saw is what i use, you want one that limits your bit and teeth to no more than 1/4" deep so it goes thru only the roof and the stop on it automatically removes the paint for a good connection. no need to spend 50.00 on a bit to do 1 antenna though, so unless you will need it again often i would find a used one on ebay or a cheap knock off at lowes/HD/harbor freight/etc... even this holesaw is available cheaper if you look around, i think i usually pay about 15.00 for it at wholesale pricing.

also, 3/4" is for NMO mount only. Antenna Specialist and some others use a 3/8" hole so make sure BEFORE you drill!

other than the difference over bit preference i agree 100% with the instructions above for putting it over the dome light or the 3rd brake light. just snake the coax along and tuck it under the edge of the headliner and behind the weatherstripping.
 
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n8emr

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DONT get a step bit. Get the correct drill. The antennax is the better. Someone who has never drilled an NMO with a step bit is ASKING for problems.
 

jim202

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The video has a few flaws in the installation. I always put some silicone grease on the threads of both the
antenna mount and the antenna. If any of you has had to remove the antenna or pull the mount for what
ever reason, you will be glad you added the grease to the threads. After a couple of months the threads
seem to all but lock together and it takes an act of congress to get them to turn and separate.

Second, make sure you get all the metal chips off the roof before you go to the next step installing the
mount. The chips tend to stay on the roof even with the wind from driving down the road. The start to rust
and like to cause damage to the paint. Don't take a rag and wipe them off the roof. This will cause small
scratches in the paint. Best way is to blow them off with an air gun.

Put the screw on ring on the mount before you try to get the mount into the hole. If you didn't lower the
head liner, you do stand the chance for the mount to fall through the hole if the screw on ring isn't on
with a few threads. It will fit and you will be glad you did this.

When you try to tighten up the screw on ring, you will find that there are 2 holes in the base. If you use
a long nose pliers, the tip will fit into the holes. This can be used to keep the center part of the mount
from turning as you tighten the outer ring. How tight do you crank on the ring is almost a talent. If
you feel the wrench and listen, you can get to the point where the brass is just starting to make a
sound. Stop at that point. You will have figured out that the pressure on the wrench your using
has got to the point where it is hard to go any further.

When you run the cable, make sure that it won't get pinched by the molding as you snap it back into
place on the side.
 

AK9R

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DONT get a step bit. Get the correct drill. The antennax is the better. Someone who has never drilled an NMO with a step bit is ASKING for problems.
I agree that a hole saw designed for installing NMO antenna mounts is the way to go. I've never had good luck with a hardware store hole saw as I think you have better control over your drilling with the antenna-specific hole saws.

However, this task can be done with a step bit. I put ten NMO mounts in the roof of a Ford Expedition with an Irwin step bit. No problems if you're careful. Note that I removed the headliner before I started.

I always put some silicone grease on the threads of both the
antenna mount and the antenna.
I agree. It's good insurance against galling the threads during installation or corrosion getting into the threads after installation. Many antennas and mounts have unplated brass parts. With all the salt that's used on the roads in the midwest, salt-laden moisture will work it's way into the threads and attack the brass.
 

pddispatcher

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Nov 8, 2004
Messages
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Got the hole drilled and NMO connection installed.

Exactly what kind of silicone grease do I need to put on the threads of the connector and antenna.

We used a step bit and started small and then did one, checked, went another step, rechecked until we got the right one looks great!

Installing was a snap and very easily.

Help about the silicone grease would be greatly appreciated.
 

mr_tunz

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Sep 5, 2008
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Location
Rural Nebraska
So use grease and some dont. I have had older installers tell me that it can mess with reception and some say you must use it. Does it say any thing in the installtion instructions about using grease?? And if it does most auto parts tore should carry it. I have seen other installers use dielectric grease (the same that is used on electrical connections).
 
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