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Led Rocker Switch Wiring

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Colton25

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Hey does anyone know how I can wire a SPDT rocker switch to my vehicles instrument illumination? This way when it is lit I can dim it with the rest of the illuminated things in my car. Below is the switch I'm using.

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KE5MC

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Zane,

Well... I found the data sheet for the Cole Hersee Co. 58312-AR and what I found does not help me one bit. With the sheet, switch, ohmmeter and what you want to do with it I think something can be figured out.

I didn't understand the term Dependent/Independent at first, but the sheet straightened that out. I been in electronics for all my adult life and I am accustom to NO, NC, COM and internal indication of the switch contacts connectivity between numbered blades. I am assuming it is some "new math" documentation this old warhorse is not getting. :D

P.S. To your question. It looks like the LEDs (dependent) are connected to contacts switching the load. They should be separate from load switching contacts so they can be illuminated by your lower voltage / current dash panel lighting.
 
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Colton25

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Yeah I found the data sheet as well, however i am the same. Just not understanding.


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sfd119

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Hey does anyone know how I can wire a SPDT rocker switch to my vehicles instrument illumination? This way when it is lit I can dim it with the rest of the illuminated things in my car. Below is the switch I'm using.

I don't think you'll be able to do it. Vehicle make and model would help.
 

Citywide173

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Looking at everything, This switch will not work for what you're looking for. Two options-rewire the lights to relays that would connect to the dimmer circuit (way too much work in my opinion) or wire the B+ connection to the dimmer circuit, which will control the lights the way you want, but will adversely affect the voltage going to whatever the load is (in other words, the lights will dim like you want, but nothing that the switch controls will work properly.)
 

cg

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Looking at the page on CH website, I believe that switch has both type light circuits. One would act to illuminate the switch and might dim if you drew power from the dimming circuit in the vehicle. The other is powered to the same level as the device and dimming it would result in dropping the voltage to your devices.
If you want the switch backlit to be able to find it at night and didn't care if the light was bright when switched on, it is fine.

chris
 

Citywide173

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Looking at the page on CH website, I believe that switch has both type light circuits. One would act to illuminate the switch and might dim if you drew power from the dimming circuit in the vehicle. The other is powered to the same level as the device and dimming it would result in dropping the voltage to your devices.
If you want the switch backlit to be able to find it at night and didn't care if the light was bright when switched on, it is fine.

chris

It has two separate bulbs in a center off configuration, not two different type of circuits. Both bulbs draw their current from the B+. The only way to do what he wants would be to take the switch apart and rewire the bulbs to relays that are switched with the B+ but power the load from the dimmer circuit. It's would be easier to make your own with a project box, a simple DPDT or SPDT switch two indicator LEDs and two relays.
 

Colton25

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Thanks to everyone for giving some input on this question, however i need to make a correction. The diagram I originally posted of the terminals is not the diagram to match the switch shown, below is the correct diagram. Maybe this will help the situation, it looks like 1 and 3 are both wired to 4 and then to ground this way the led will be powered on when the switch is in either position. Please if anyone has a chance, review the updated diagram below. Also I wanted to check and see if it would be ok to wire this switch with 2 power source going to one load (1 source being 12v switched and the other being constant 12v from battery). If i understand the diagram that would mean terminals 1 and 3 would be 12v+ inputs and terminal 2 would be my load going out to the light.
 

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Citywide173

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The design of the switch is for the B+ (your 12V) to come in on the center and provide switched power to one or the other load (L1, L2) but it will work in the method you describe. What is the switch rated for?
 

Colton25

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It's rated for 25 amps.

The design of the switch is for the B+ (your 12V) to come in on the center and provide switched power to one or the other load (L1, L2) but it will work in the method you describe. What is the switch rated for?




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ramal121

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Also I wanted to check and see if it would be ok to wire this switch with 2 power source going to one load (1 source being 12v switched and the other being constant 12v from battery). If i understand the diagram that would mean terminals 1 and 3 would be 12v+ inputs and terminal 2 would be my load going out to the light.

It would work from a switching standpoint, however the lamps will always be on when there is power applied to 1 or 3 regardless of the rocker position. Kinda make the function of this lighted switch pointless.
 

Colton25

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So if 1 and 3 were both power in and 2 was power out, what would happen if i put a jumper in from 2 to 4. Seems like this would ground the switch every time power is going out terminal 2 so wouldn't this make the led's come on? And if i can't make it work with this switch what would i need to make this work?
It would work from a switching standpoint, however the lamps will always be on when there is power applied to 1 or 3 regardless of the rocker position. Kinda make the function of this lighted switch pointless.
 

ramal121

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If you put a jumper from 2 (+12 volts out) to 4 (ground) it would be 4th of July all over again whenever you you enable the switch.

Now what is it you are exactly trying to do? I thought you were trying to find a way to make the indicator lamps dim?
 

Colton25

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I was however it doesn't sound like that's possible, and I can live without the switch dimming. What I really need to figure out (whole reason I bought this switch) is how I can take 2 separate 12v sources one being switched and the other being direct from battery. Then tying them into this switch so the load can either; 1 be powered by the switched source which would allow the load to automatically come on with low beams, 2 turn the load off (switch would be in center off position), or 3 have a constant power supply so that I can power the load without having the low beams on.
If you put a jumper from 2 (+12 volts out) to 4 (ground) it would be 4th of July all over again whenever you you enable the switch.

Now what is it you are exactly trying to do? I thought you were trying to find a way to make the indicator lamps dim?





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rescue161

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I'm just a little confused. If you already have a "switched" source, then why would you want to run it through another switch? What are trying to power up?

Here is an example of what we do for K9 vehicle exhaust fans. The fans are set to come on if the temperature in the car becomes too hot. This is automatic and is always on when the K9 Popper is active. Once it reaches a certain temp, the rear windows roll down, the exhaust fans turn on, the cars blue lights turn on and the officer receives a page that the temp in the car is too hot for his dog. A lot going on there, but that is the "switched" voltage side of the equation as it happens automatically without intervention from the officer.

For the "constant" power side of things, there is a switch that is wired in that can provide power to the fans if the officer so desires and is completely immune to the K9-Popper's status. The switch is also not under the load of the fan.

If the K9 Popper trigger goes high, then relay "S" will energize and the fan will pull power from the battery through the contacts of relay "S."

If the K9 Popper is not activated, but the officer wants to turn on the fans, then he uses the switch, which energizes relay "C" and therefore, pulls power from the battery through the contacts of relay "C."

Neither system is affected by the other.

As you can see, the LED on our system only illuminates when the switch is active. If we had switches like yours, we could wire one LED to remain on when the car is running and then light another LED upon activation of the switch. We just don't have them on-hand.

As I said, this is just an example of what we do. It would help greatly if you told us what equipment you were trying to install.
 

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Colton25

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I'm rewiring my fogs to come on automatically with my low beams, however I also still want to be able to shut the fogs off at any time, plus have constant power just in case I ever wanted my fogs on without my low beams. Using this switch was the only way I could think of doing this without having to worry about back feeding the system (constant power going back through the automatic power side or vise versa). So my plan with using this switch was for the switch to primarily remain in the "red" position, this would be the auto position, this way when I turn the car on the switch is already on allowing the fogs to come on with the low beams. If I ever wanted to turn the fogs off I would just put the switch in the middle position cutting off all power through this switch. And if I ever wanted to have the fogs on without low beams, I can still power them with constant power from the battery, in this case the switch would be in the "amber" position. Maybe I'm making this way harder then it needs to be, is there an easier solution when combining 2 different power sources? From what I understand you have a similar situation.

I'm just a little confused. If you already have a "switched" source, then why would you want to run it through another switch? What are trying to power up?

Here is an example of what we do for K9 vehicle exhaust fans. The fans are set to come on if the temperature in the car becomes too hot. This is automatic and is always on when the K9 Popper is active. Once it reaches a certain temp, the rear windows roll down, the exhaust fans turn on, the cars blue lights turn on and the officer receives a page that the temp in the car is too hot for his dog. A lot going on there, but that is the "switched" voltage side of the equation as it happens automatically without intervention from the officer.

For the "constant" power side of things, there is a switch that is wired in that can provide power to the fans if the officer so desires and is completely immune to the K9-Popper's status. The switch is also not under the load of the fan.

If the K9 Popper trigger goes high, then relay "S" will energize and the fan will pull power from the battery through the contacts of relay "S."

If the K9 Popper is not activated, but the officer wants to turn on the fans, then he uses the switch, which energizes relay "C" and therefore, pulls power from the battery through the contacts of relay "C."

Neither system is affected by the other.

As you can see, the LED on our system only illuminates when the switch is active. If we had switches like yours, we could wire one LED to remain on when the car is running and then light another LED upon activation of the switch. We just don't have them on-hand.

As I said, this is just an example of what we do. It would help greatly if you told us what equipment you were trying to install.





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ramal121

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Gotcha, and a completely reasonable way to wire up fog lamps. What you propose as far as switching two different power sources to a single load will work just fine.

The sticky wicket is the indicator lamps in side the switch. They are wired to show a single source voltage switched to two different loads which is the other way around from what you need. I can't think of a way without tearing into the switch and making this way more complicated that what it should be.

Unless you can find a special made switch for your purposes that suits you, what I would do is get a plain DPDT (on-off-on) switch and add my own indicator lamps (LED or whatever) right next to the switch. This way you can run the fog lamps on one side of the switch and use the other side to turn on an indicator. With that the indicator lights can be wired up in a configuration that would work for you, even hooking them to the dimmer circuit in the vehicle. Not as nice as a lighted rocker, but saves hair and sanity.
 

KE5MC

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Zane,

In your updated diagram if Pin 4 is only used for the LEDs its possible to insert a dimming function between Pin 4 and ground. That function would be separate and apart from the vehicles, but at least you could have some control.

Mike
 

phask

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I've done this several times, just use a single pole, double throw switch. I've used a micro (always fed via relays). One side has power from the existing lamp, other from the new source, center is output.

Similar to this - ehattons.com - Gaugemaster Controls GM510 A5H Single Pole Double Throw Momentary Contact Mini-toggle for Point Motors

I always used a separate indicator, but with the correct switch you could use an illuminated one.

I also will use one that has center off. ex: On with hi beams - off - on by itself.
 

Colton25

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So i used your diagram and made some modifications to make it more for my situation, this is with the switch i have right now. I'm curious to know if you think this would work. Hope you don't mind me using it. What do you think?

I'm just a little confused. If you already have a "switched" source, then why would you want to run it through another switch? What are trying to power up?

Here is an example of what we do for K9 vehicle exhaust fans. The fans are set to come on if the temperature in the car becomes too hot. This is automatic and is always on when the K9 Popper is active. Once it reaches a certain temp, the rear windows roll down, the exhaust fans turn on, the cars blue lights turn on and the officer receives a page that the temp in the car is too hot for his dog. A lot going on there, but that is the "switched" voltage side of the equation as it happens automatically without intervention from the officer.

For the "constant" power side of things, there is a switch that is wired in that can provide power to the fans if the officer so desires and is completely immune to the K9-Popper's status. The switch is also not under the load of the fan.

If the K9 Popper trigger goes high, then relay "S" will energize and the fan will pull power from the battery through the contacts of relay "S."

If the K9 Popper is not activated, but the officer wants to turn on the fans, then he uses the switch, which energizes relay "C" and therefore, pulls power from the battery through the contacts of relay "C."

Neither system is affected by the other.

As you can see, the LED on our system only illuminates when the switch is active. If we had switches like yours, we could wire one LED to remain on when the car is running and then light another LED upon activation of the switch. We just don't have them on-hand.

As I said, this is just an example of what we do. It would help greatly if you told us what equipment you were trying to install.
 

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