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2007 Toyota Corolla (Temporary Install Suggestions)

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KN1IGHT

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Hi guys,

I have an 07 Toyota Corolla I use for long drives, since it's better on gas.
I would like to install a scanner & two way radio permanently in the Corolla, however I'm not the only one who drives it, so for now I'll have to use a Uniden BC75XLT handheld scanner & a dualbander handheld radio, with whichever one's being used plugged into the Cigarette lighter for constant power.

Since other family members will be using it, I prefer not to put any holes in the vehicle at all at this time (maybe in the future though). Any thoughts on a temporary & easy to remove antenna setup?

I figured I'd see what creative ideas anyone has here, as I've seen some good ones just browsing the forum in the past, for all sorts of vehicles.

~ KN1IGHT

Note: I'm in no hurry for an answer
 

KN1IGHT

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I would use a dual band mag mount antenna which would work for the ht and the scanner.

Nice.
I've been debating between a trunk lip mount & a mag mount. Either way, when I'm not using the car, the whole setup comes off, and is stored in the house, as others have a tendency to toss things in the back seat or trunk without worrying what's underneath sometimes.

My only worry with the mag mount, is that it will come off while driving down the highway. I've seen some that people reviewed, and they say going 120 down the highway, it didn't move an inch. But they had 3 magnets in the shape of a triangle on them.

Any antenna recommendations?

Currently, my scanner is programmed to the 155.440 - 155.600 range for local RCMP, and then a 171.xxx range for my local town's fire dispatch. (Another person on Facebook, said the range of an antenna (Ex: 134 - 174 MHz) only really matters if you're transmitting using that antenna)

The radio right now, since I don't have my HAM License just yet, is just utilizing some GMRS frequencies, I was able to find thanks to RadioReference's wiki on that. Right now the radio is just going to be used for communication, between myself, a friend & staff when I do volunteer work at an RV Park near me.
I do plan on getting a HAM License sometime, so I would need an antenna which would allow me to still easily transmit on the GMRS ones, and the VHF frequencies the repeater would be on, without needing a separate antenna (for now).
 

mmckenna

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My only worry with the mag mount, is that it will come off while driving down the highway. I've seen some that people reviewed, and they say going 120 down the highway, it didn't move an inch. But they had 3 magnets in the shape of a triangle on them.

Unless you have some ridiculously huge antenna, this should not be a problem, even at 120km/h. 3 magnet mount designs are for guys who are running HF antennas and are not willing to do a proper install. Avoid those.



Any antenna recommendations?

I do plan on getting a HAM License sometime, so I would need an antenna which would allow me to still easily transmit on the GMRS ones, and the VHF frequencies the repeater would be on, without needing a separate antenna (for now).

Yes. Since you are getting started in radio and have plans to get your ham license, get a decent set up now. It'll not only serve you well today, but well into the future.

Advice: Ignore the gimmicky consumer grade/amateur grade antennas. Most of them are junk with falsely inflated gain figures.

Start with an NMO magnetic mount made by one of the professional antenna manufacturers. An NMO mount is pretty much the default standard for all professional LMR radio installs. They work well for amateur and scanners, too.

As for the antenna, get a basic dual band NMO antenna. It'll work great as a VHF/UHF scanner antenna and will work passably on 700-800MHz . Again, avoid gimmick antennas. There is NO magic pixy dust that makes antennas work better than the laws of physics will permit. When you get your amateur radio license, you'll have a suitable antenna for use on the 2 meter and 70 centimeter bands, probably the most popular for new hams. This one antenna should last you a long time if you look after it, and you won't need to replace it when you get your amateur radio license.

Start with something like this:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-gm8smai-7512.html
This is a basic NMO magnet mount with a pre-attached SMA plug on the cable. Should work with your existing radios, but if not, get the right connector on the end of the cable, avoid using adapters, they just cause issues you don't need, especially if you are going to be frequently connecting/disconnecting radios.

As for the antenna, I'd use something like one of these:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmo2-70b-1712.html
It'll work fine for what you need. While not perfect for GMRS, you are limited to 2 watts there and these antennas are broad enough that it'll work fine. Any slight SWR mismatch will be tolerated well by a hand held radio. Hand held radios are usually working with poorly tuned flexible antennas anyway, so this will be a huge improvement.

Resist the urge to go cheap. While you can save a few bucks by going with Chinese brand stuff, I'll bet you dollars to donuts it'll fail in a few years.

Trouble with this set up is that routing the coax cable through windows, doors, trunks, etc. usually does a number on the cable. When it gets pinched by the door/window, etc. it'll get damaged. Eventually it'll give you problems. Route the coax accordingly.

Do some basic preventative maintenance on this set up and it'll last you a lifetime. I've got a 25+ year old Larsen dual band and magnetic mount set up that I use for testing that works just fine.

Also, I'm not a big fan of magnetic mount antennas, but in your case you don't have any other real options. It'll work for the temporary installation you need. Trunk lip mounts are usually problematic as they need frequent tightening. They also don't remove as easily.
 

KN1IGHT

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Unless you have some ridiculously huge antenna, this should not be a problem, even at 120km/h. 3 magnet mount designs are for guys who are running HF antennas and are not willing to do a proper install. Avoid those.

As for the antenna, get a basic dual band NMO antenna. It'll work great as a VHF/UHF scanner antenna and will work passably on 700-800MHz . Again, avoid gimmick antennas. There is NO magic pixy dust that makes antennas work better than the laws of physics will permit. When you get your amateur radio license, you'll have a suitable antenna for use on the 2 meter and 70 centimeter bands, probably the most popular for new hams. This one antenna should last you a long time if you look after it, and you won't need to replace it when you get your amateur radio license.

Start with something like this:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-gm8smai-7512.html
This is a basic NMO magnet mount with a pre-attached SMA plug on the cable. Should work with your existing radios, but if not, get the right connector on the end of the cable, avoid using adapters, they just cause issues you don't need, especially if you are going to be frequently connecting/disconnecting radios.

As for the antenna, I'd use something like one of these:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmo2-70b-1712.html
It'll work fine for what you need. While not perfect for GMRS, you are limited to 2 watts there and these antennas are broad enough that it'll work fine. Any slight SWR mismatch will be tolerated well by a hand held radio. Hand held radios are usually working with poorly tuned flexible antennas anyway, so this will be a huge improvement.

Resist the urge to go cheap. While you can save a few bucks by going with Chinese brand stuff, I'll bet you dollars to donuts it'll fail in a few years.

Do some basic preventative maintenance on this set up and it'll last you a lifetime. I've got a 25+ year old Larsen dual band and magnetic mount set up that I use for testing that works just fine.

Also, I'm not a big fan of magnetic mount antennas, but in your case you don't have any other real options. It'll work for the temporary installation you need..

Thanks for the response!
I haven't made any plans on getting equipment just yet (so I am not tempted to go cheap), but I did find this antenna, though it is a bit tall (Corolla is only garaged in the winter anyways) & this antenna (before I learned the range only matters if you're transmitting).

As for the routing through the door with the mag mount, I was thinking (before) the mag mount on the trunk, and run into the trunk at the bottom of the rear window (if possible. haven't looked there recently), and in between the rear seats in the middle, then along that "rib" on the floor in the rear, on the driver's side (driver side of rear seat has coveralls & a roadside emergency kit, so no one's sitting there anyways), then along the console. As for the trunk lip mount, if used and could convince my other family members who drive the car, to let the trunk lip mount stay, I'd try use LockTite on the set screws, and then when they drive/ when I'm not using it, just screw on an NMO Cap mount. (I'm leaning more towards the mag mount right now though)

Since the adapter was really a "last resort" thing, would a coax switch like this be ideal? I'd hopefully mount it somewhere in the front accessible by myself while driving. This would probably be the only "permanent" thing installed for the temporary setup, that would probably remain should I ever do a permanent install in the Corolla, with a proper mobile radio & scanner.

At the moment, my handheld radio in question is the Puxing PX888K, and it's held up to being used as much as I do (can't find a battery eliminator for it yet), and I got it in 2014, and it's still doing great.

For this temp setup I'd be looking at a handheld like a Retevis RT-5R or Baofeng UV-5R dualbander, as there is a battery eliminator available on Amazon for both of those (I go airsofting in some of my free time, so the Retevis RT-5R or Baofeng UV-5R dualbander would be used for airsoft comms when it's not in the Corolla)

On a side note before I submitted this reply, I looked it up, and per this Wiki on RR, the GMRS channels I use (15 - 22) can be used with up to max 50 watts of output power, though the handhelds only go up to 5 watts on the high power setting

~ KN1IGHT
 

mmckenna

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Thanks for the response!
I haven't made any plans on getting equipment just yet (so I am not tempted to go cheap), but I did find this antenna, though it is a bit tall (Corolla is only garaged in the winter anyways) & this antenna (before I learned the range only matters if you're transmitting).

Either of those antennas will work. The Larsen 150-450 would be tuned a bit high if you ever decide to get your amateur radio license, but it'll work.

The Laird is a decent antenna, but a couple of issues:
The base is LARGE. We're talking soup can large.
They are expensive for what they are. Good choice if you were running a tri band commercial radio, but (in my opinion) overkill for scanner or amateur radio use.
It'll work, but the Larsen will outperform it on 150 & 450.

This one:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmo150-450-800-1050.html
would probably be a better choice. It'll TX on the 2m and 70cm amateur bands just fine and it's a known good performer for scanner use.
And, it's cheaper.

As for the routing through the door with the mag mount, I was thinking (before) the mag mount on the trunk, and run into the trunk at the bottom of the rear window (if possible. haven't looked there recently), and in between the rear seats in the middle, then along that "rib" on the floor in the rear, on the driver's side (driver side of rear seat has coveralls & a roadside emergency kit, so no one's sitting there anyways), then along the console. As for the trunk lip mount, if used and could convince my other family members who drive the car, to let the trunk lip mount stay, I'd try use LockTite on the set screws, and then when they drive/ when I'm not using it, just screw on an NMO Cap mount. (I'm leaning more towards the mag mount right now though)

Routing sounds pretty good. The pinch point where the trunk closes can be an issue. Even though there is probably a rubber gasket, it'll still cause some issues.
Routing under carpet where people will be putting their feet can be an issue, ideally you want it well protected, but if it's temporary, you're probably OK.

Lock-tite on the trunk lip mount is a good idea, but the main issue is the sheet metal under the set screws getting deformed. Rust can be an issue since to work properly you have to tighten them down enough to bite through the paint to get a good ground connection. Might not be an issue for your car.



Since the adapter was really a "last resort" thing, would a coax switch like this be ideal? I'd hopefully mount it somewhere in the front accessible by myself while driving. This would probably be the only "permanent" thing installed for the temporary setup, that would probably remain should I ever do a permanent install in the Corolla, with a proper mobile radio & scanner.

It'll work, but you have to remember to have it switched to the right position when you transmit.


On a side note before I submitted this reply, I looked it up, and per this Wiki on RR, the GMRS channels I use (15 - 22) can be used with up to max 50 watts of output power, though the handhelds only go up to 5 watts on the high power setting

Those are the rules for the USA. In Canada the rules are different. 2 watts is the maximum power and you don't have access to the 467MHz channels and you can't use repeaters.
I don't have easy access to the Industry Canada rules, but I'm sure someone can link to them for you.
The RR wiki article is incorrect. The line at the top: "According to the Family Radio Service article, the information below applies to both the US and Canada." is misleading. The FRS rules are similar, but the GMRS rules are different.
 

KN1IGHT

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Either of those antennas will work. The Larsen 150-450 would be tuned a bit high if you ever decide to get your amateur radio license, but it'll work.

The Laird is a decent antenna, but a couple of issues:
The base is LARGE. We're talking soup can large.

This one:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmo150-450-800-1050.html
would probably be a better choice. It'll TX on the 2m and 70cm amateur bands just fine and it's a known good performer for scanner use.
And, it's cheaper.

That Larsen one I actually have in my bookmarks as a "candidate" for an antenna. If I don't end up doing a permanent install on the Corolla, the antennas and such will make their way over to my F150, where I'd plan on using an L mount on my headache rack (can't do a hole mount. Tubing isn't wide enough, and the rack is coated in Linex coating. Not smooth at all), for the scanner only, with that antenna (Prefer not to do a hole in the roof right now). A mobile radio (at the moment) I'd plan on using a hood mount, as I'd mainly only ever be transmitting when I'm doing my work at the park. At the time though, I didn't even plan on looking at getting my license when I had the idea for a hood mount antenna, thus I had only intended to get a UHF only mobile. I'm not set on the HAM License, but it does seem like something I'd like to get into.

I also mainly "picked" that Laird one, as it has a spring base. While there aren't many trees around here, or obstacles to hit, the F150 does sit up pretty high (stock. no lift kit) and that antenna was in the bookmarks to make sure if it hit anything repeatedly, it'd hopefully flex at the spring.



Routing sounds pretty good. The pinch point where the trunk closes can be an issue. Even though there is probably a rubber gasket, it'll still cause some issues.
Routing under carpet where people will be putting their feet can be an issue, ideally you want it well protected, but if it's temporary, you're probably OK.

I was wondering about that. I'll have to take a peek at that point on my trunk to see what the deal is there.

Lock-tite on the trunk lip mount is a good idea, but the main issue is the sheet metal under the set screws getting deformed. Rust can be an issue since to work properly you have to tighten them down enough to bite through the paint to get a good ground connection. Might not be an issue for your car.

Good point. I'm still leaning more towards a mag mount, for the easy ability to remove it, and the trunk lip, because the coax is already partially "routed" around that point to avoid any pinching.



It'll work, but you have to remember to have it switched to the right position when you transmit.

Another good point. Not set on the coax switch yet. Either way, I don't really plan on the scanner receiving & transmitting on the radio at the same time.


Those are the rules for the USA. In Canada the rules are different. 2 watts is the maximum power and you don't have access to the 467MHz channels and you can't use repeaters.
I don't have easy access to the Industry Canada rules, but I'm sure someone can link to them for you.
The RR wiki article is incorrect. The line at the top: "According to the Family Radio Service article, the information below applies to both the US and Canada." is misleading. The FRS rules are similar, but the GMRS rules are different.


Here's the Industry Canada rules for FRS and GMRS use in Canada: http://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/smt-gst.nsf/eng/sf10211.html#sA6

Ah, okay. I will definitely look at that. The individual I got my PX888K from, his buddy who works with the CRTC, did say that RR article is correct. He wasn't in the US either. The PX shipped from Ontario, Canada.
I did hear, that FRS the device transmitting on it must have a fixed, non-removable antenna, which a mobile & the PX888K does not have.
He did say though, that the likelihood of them coming after you for a violation is very low, as they don't have the resources to do that. If it was a very serious violation (can't remember the example he gave) then there is the possibility they may come knocking, and ask you to cut it out.
I will try give him a shout again, and see what he says, or dig up the email he sent me.

It's off to bed for me now.

Cheers,

KN1IGHT
 
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mmckenna

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Ah, okay. I will definitely look at that. The individual I got my PX888K from, his buddy who works with the CRTC, did say that RR article is correct. He wasn't in the US either. The PX shipped from Ontario, Canada.
I did hear, that FRS the device transmitting on it must have a fixed, non-removable antenna, which a mobile & the PX888K does not have.
He did say though, that the likelihood of them coming after you for a violation is very low, as they don't have the resources to do that. If it was a very serious violation (can't remember the example he gave) then there is the possibility they may come knocking, and ask you to cut it out.
I will try give him a shout again, and see what he says, or dig up the email he sent me.

At best the RR article is misleading. The "FRS" parts are correct, but the GMRS part would possibly lead someone in Canada to think that running 50 watts on the GMRS channels would be legal. It isn't. Always best to get the rules directly from the source. The IC link I included above shows it as the rules stand, 2 watts maximum on the GMRS channels, no exceptions.

True, many ignore the rules. Same thing happens here in the US. I'm not a "radio cop", so what others choose to do is entirely up to them. It is important, however, for people just coming into the hobby to know where to find the rules that actually apply to their own country. Unfortunately, and as I'm sure you know, many Americans assume that US law applies everywhere. It doesn't. The RR pages are very "American" centric, so it's important to keep that in mind when looking at the resources here.
 

mmckenna

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I also mainly "picked" that Laird one, as it has a spring base. While there aren't many trees around here, or obstacles to hit, the F150 does sit up pretty high (stock. no lift kit) and that antenna was in the bookmarks to make sure if it hit anything repeatedly, it'd hopefully flex at the spring.

Most of the better commercial antennas can be ordered with a spring option. You won't necessarily find it on every website, but if you go to a full line dealer, you'll be able to order that way.

Springs are nice, but often not necessary. I've got a full size F150 with a VHF 1/4 wave whip and an 800MHz 1/4 wave whip mounted on the roof. The whips are flexible enough on their own that I've never felt the need for a spring, even hitting low parking garages, tree branches, etc. If I was running a 1/2 wave or 5/8 wave, I might think differently. If you mount yours below on the fender, I doubt you'd have any issues. This is probably another good reason to stick with the professional brands. I've never had one of these antennas break on me, even when getting abused. At work I've got Larsen's on our police cars, garbage trucks and a fleet of busses. No failures.
 

KN1IGHT

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2007 Corolla & 2014 F150 Install

If you mount yours below on the fender, I doubt you'd have any issues. This is probably another good reason to stick with the professional brands. I've never had one of these antennas break on me, even when getting abused. At work I've got Larsen's on our police cars, garbage trucks and a fleet of busses. No failures.

Popped on using the iPhone (couldn't sleep. Will try sleep after this post).
That Laird in question since it would be for the scanner/ and a dualbander mobile for HAM use wasn't planned for a hood mount. What was/ is planned is an install on the top of my headache rack, via an L bracket mount, as its coated with Linex, which definitely wouldn't seal (without silicone) if I did a permanent hole on the rack.
I chose the rack for that one, since it'd be the HAM radio one, so I'd definitely want it as high as I can get it, to hopefully reach the repeater near me.

The hood mounted one if its done right/ as planned would either be with the dualbander radio (hooked to a coax switch) and would be a no ground UHF one for use at the rv park only, or for a completely separate UHF radio for use at the park. I've found a Motorola CDM1250 & a 1550 on eBay both in great condition, that will come with the remote mount kit. Just finding out if either of the sellers offer programming at all.

I got a few pics of the headache rack I took a while back when I was discussing an install before I joined RR.
I went ahead and uploaded them to IMGUR, and as you can probably tell, the surface isn't ideal for a permanent hole mount, as the O-ring definitely wouldn't seal there.

http://i.imgur.com/yr5UfyO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TemTmtV.jpg

Cheers,

KN1IGHT
 

cmdrwill

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The 'headache rack' will not provide enough groundplane, the other half of the antenna. Best is the mag mount in the middle of the roof. Remember you need at least 19", a 1/4 wave, from any edge for VHF.
 

KN1IGHT

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The 'headache rack' will not provide enough groundplane, the other half of the antenna. Best is the mag mount in the middle of the roof. Remember you need at least 19", a 1/4 wave, from any edge for VHF.

That is what I thought, but wasn't sure. Regardless if I do 2 antennas (one for scanner & one for radio) I do know it'd be preferable for them to be mounted roof height at least, though I have read people getting away with doing the Fender/Lip mount for HAM Radio, and that mounting solution is still a "candidate" for this.

What about a mount on the toolbox, probably with a 30" or longer whip, since it wouldn't be mounted roof height? (I'd probably have 19" on the left & right of the antenna, but definitely not the front & back). This mount would very likely need to be an NMO Hole, as the toolbox itself, is metal, but very thin metal (I can "deform" the toolbox sides with my hands, with some effort).

I'm trying to not do any NMO hole mounts or mag mounts on the F150 roof (yes, the topic was about a Corolla originally) as the F150 isn't even that old, as in the odometer doesn't even have 5000 KM on it yet.

Anyways, on to the Corolla "update". I did take a peek at the trunk for a mag mount, and at a glance, the coax should be able to fit between, at the bottom of the rear window, where a trunk lip mount would be. A permanent install for the Corolla would either consist of an NMO Hole mount in the center of the trunk (or roof, depending on antenna length, as Corolla is garaged in the winter), or a Lip mounted antenna on either side of the trunk, probably up near the rear window.

However, I've switched my focus from the Corolla temp install to the F150, as my volunteer work at the RV Park starts soon-ish, and the F150 is the vehicle I'll be taking out there.
The seller of the CDM1550 I linked in my last post, does provide programming to 16 channels, free of charge. I'm looking at that CDM1550 for my F150's UHF install, for use at the RV Park.

This question is open to anyone now. What would be recommended for a mounting location of the actual radio? The F150 is a 2014 F150 XL Regular Cab, so no rear seats. When I head out to the RV Park, all my bags go behind the seats. There's a small console underneath the center seat, which currently serves as a "table" for working on when at the park, and an armrest while driving (very rare to have 3 people in it)
Would mounting the CDM1550 (not the remote head) under either the driver seat or passenger seat be recommended at all?

Thanks to everyone who has replied & helped me out so far, and thanks in advance to anyone who does reply!

Cheers,

KN1IGHT

P.S. I will try get interior pics of the F150 taken, and uploaded as soon as I can.
 

Project25_MASTR

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Look into Panavise InDash mounts. While the CDM may be a little heavy for that solution they work wonders for housing remote head applications.

Also, someone on here has a link to an equipment mount that simply bolts on via the third brake light assembly. If your afraid of drilling holes in your pickup (I didn't have that issue with my Sierra) that will be the next best option performance-wise. Also has enough room for another antenna or a go-light or other roof mounted object.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

KN1IGHT

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2007 Corolla & 2014 F150 (Pics)

So, I went out & snapped pics of the F150 in all the spots I could think of, along with the Corolla, right after I posted that post above.
Please excuse the mess in the front of the Corolla, as I'm not the only one who drives it. Also please excuse the bit of junk laying around in the pics of behind the seat in the F150. One family member used it a while ago, and neither of us have had a chance to clean it out.

The first pics are the F150
Under driver's seat:
-> Could safely mount the CDM1550 or HAM Radio underneath here, probably
0N7bSFOl.jpg


Headache Rack Shot (again)
I2tPMqAl.jpg


Toolbox:
csjagwEl.jpg


Interior (Behind Passenger Seat):
Fqp8mUkl.jpg


Interior (Floor Behind Driver's Seat):
-> At the top of the pic, is a rechargeable LED Flashlight & a pair of gloves should I ever need either while driving
nzthjhsl.jpg


Interior ("Wall" Behind Driver's Seat):
5IbAgcAl.jpg


Under Passenger Seat:
-> Could safely mount the CDM1550 or HAM Radio underneath here, probably
S4CLvYol.jpg


Front Shot (Just Because):
pU0sRRWl.jpg


Driver's Side (NMO Hood Mount Area):
DYkdSW9l.jpg


Roof (Should be obvious lol):
X256Tqfl.jpg


Middle Console Area (Where I'd like to mount the CDM1550 Remote Head):
The thing sticking out is my cupholders. The small storage space under the SYNC USB & Aux Port area, -> I'd like to keep free of obstruction (if possible), as when driving I use the short iPhone 5 cord in there, and plug in my phone to keep it charged, and listen to music on the iPhone while driving.
Looking at this pic again, if there's nothing behind that panel of plastic below where the iPhone cord is, I'd like to try mount the CDM1550 remote head there, either with the bracket, or right in the plastic itself (if possible).
CRrl9rTl.jpg


Corolla Pics now. Only have a few.

Middle Console Area (Excuse the junk):
NZdvbgAl.jpg


Trunk (Space between trunk & rear window for mag mount's coax):
-> I think it's pretty decent, and am positive there is a rubber seal underneath there
vOlrN9Al.jpg


Same spot as above (Tried to get a closer shot):
G3usO5ol.jpg


Corolla Roof:
B7KPGAOl.jpg
 

mmckenna

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The CDM radio will fit in the hole under the center of the dash. You can make a hole in the back of it for routing cables.

Preferably do not mount the antennas on the tool box. They'll hit when you open it, and they will be effectively blocked by the cab.

What is your reason for not wanting to do a proper NMO mount on the roof? It really does perform better.

Here's a photo of the CDM-1550 head mounted in my own F-150. This is a remote head radio, so the RF deck is mounted behind the rear seats. It'll give you an idea of what it would look like. If you don't use the remote head option, the radio should fit in the cubby under the dash just fine.

 

mmckenna

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Here's the bracket W5PKY is referring to:
Acari Products

Might be an option. Trouble is they still don't provide a good ground plane under the antenna. You really need 1/4 wave in all directions under the antenna for it to work well.
You could try a 1/2 wave antenna, they don't require a ground plane to work, however they do work better with one.

Really the ideal location is center of the truck roof, permanent mount. It'll outperform everything else.

Fender brackets are a popular option with the hobby/amateur crowd, but they have the same issue with the offset ground plane. Poor performance and a compromise situation at best. It'd work, but really not ideal.
 

KN1IGHT

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Look into Panavise InDash mounts. While the CDM may be a little heavy for that solution they work wonders for housing remote head applications.

The RF deck itself will very likely be under one of the seats, to hopefully keep the space behind the seats free for putting my bags & such when I head out to the park. I've thought of, based on some other topics, mounting the CDM1550 remote head up above my rear view mirror, between the 2 visors, and somehow utilizing the existing visor brackets, but then also thought of how visible that'd make it to the public.

Also, someone on here has a link to an equipment mount that simply bolts on via the third brake light assembly. If your afraid of drilling holes in your pickup (I didn't have that issue with my Sierra) that will be the next best option performance-wise. Also has enough room for another antenna or a go-light or other roof mounted object.

I know what mounts you're referring to. I came across them a while ago, while researching a completely different topic regarding the F150

The CDM radio will fit in the hole under the center of the dash. You can make a hole in the back of it for routing cables.

I'm trying to keep that hole open, as I place my wallet there while driving, along with my iPhone. I plug in my iPhone via the Sync USB port, to keep it charged up & to play my music through the Sync system.

Preferably do not mount the antennas on the tool box. They'll hit when you open it, and they will be effectively blocked by the cab.

Good point. I thought of them hitting the rack already when opening it. Likely won't be going there.

What is your reason for not wanting to do a proper NMO mount on the roof? It really does perform better.

Personally, other then not wanting a hole in the roof (even though this F150 will probably soon be the primary vehicle the rest of my life, and not get sold or traded), I've contemplated the NMO hole mount, and majority of the time it comes down to (like a few other members in topics I've read here) I'm mainly fine with the hole, but I'm not fine with me drilling the hole, & pulling the headliner down inside to route the coax, but I'd still prefer to steer away from a hole, unless I have no other options. (Might start inquiring with some close communications dealers about what they charge).

Here's a photo of the CDM-1550 head mounted in my own F-150. This is a remote head radio, so the RF deck is mounted behind the rear seats. It'll give you an idea of what it would look like. If you don't use the remote head option, the radio should fit in the cubby under the dash just fine.


Looks good! That'd be what I'd prefer mine to look like as well. But, the cubby your CDM1550 remote head is mounted to/ in, I have been keeping unobstructed per my reply to the first part of your post, about keeping that area under the SYNC Ports open.
I did think about the remote head being mounted below that cubby, to that plastic panel directly below, with the remote head bracket. I know it'd be low, but when I'm at the RV Park, the speed limit is 10 km/h so, it isn't a big deal to stop, and change channels if I have to. Majority of the time we stay on the same channel.

On a non mounting related note, how's the sound on the CDM1550? Are you using an external speaker at all?

Here's the bracket W5PKY is referring to:
Acari Products

Might be an option. Trouble is they still don't provide a good ground plane under the antenna. You really need 1/4 wave in all directions under the antenna for it to work well.
You could try a 1/2 wave antenna, they don't require a ground plane to work, however they do work better with one.

Really the ideal location is center of the truck roof, permanent mount. It'll outperform everything else.

When everything comes together, I'm hoping to put the scanner antenna either on the passenger side of the hood, with an L Bracket mount since it'll only be receiving, or on the headache rack with an L Bracket mount & keeping the HAM radio antenna as high as possible. Right now I park the F150 in a shed with a fairly high roof, but I do plan to garage it when the opportunity presents itself, or when the shed doors get re-done to sliding ones. Still will have to consider parking garages when I do park in one, and the HAM Antenna.

Fender brackets are a popular option with the hobby/amateur crowd, but they have the same issue with the offset ground plane. Poor performance and a compromise situation at best. It'd work, but really not ideal.

The only fender bracket(s) I plan on using is for the CDM1550, as it'll mainly be used when I'm at the RV Park, and maybe if me & a few friends are "touring" around town & need a way to communicate. I'll be trying to keep the HAM Radio antenna as high as possible.

Was looking at this antenna or this antenna for the CDM1550 on a hood mount from The Antenna Farm.

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far!! I'll try take a picture soon of the storage area under the middle seat, which may be a good place for installing something.

Cheers,

KN1IGHT
 

mmckenna

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On a non mounting related note, how's the sound on the CDM1550? Are you using an external speaker at all?

Yes, that's actually an old photo. The current configuration is the CDM1550 head mounted where it is in the photo with a head for a Kenwood NX-900 underneath it. Behind the control heads there are two large Motorola remote speakers. Here's a more recent photo. You can see one of them behind the control head. It's mounted to the vertical plastic piece under the dash. It's pretty easy to remove that vertical to mount the speaker and run the wiring:


The CDM's are pretty loud as is, but limited in dynamic range due to the smallish speaker cone. Adding the external speaker really gives both radios a very nice full sound and more volume than I'll ever need. At full volume, it'll hurt your ears. No issues at all hearing the radio clearly at 65MPH with all the windows down.

While not necessary, I'd recommend putting the external speaker in. It makes enough difference in the sound to be worth the effort. Also, if you work outside of the truck, it's plenty loud enough if you have the windows down.

Was looking at this antenna or this antenna for the CDM1550 on a hood mount from The Antenna Farm.

Go with the B4502n. The only issue with the BB4502N is that the black coating on the whip will look really good for a few months. Then the bugs, stones, etc. start to chip away at the coating. After a while the whip starts to look like crap. The metal underneath the powder coating starts to shine through. Within a year you'll be hating yourself for spending the extra money on it. The chrome whip will look good for a lifetime.
I made the mistake of using a Larsen whip with the black coating on one of my older trucks. Looked really slick for a while, but then, not so much. I'd try touching it up with a little bit of black gloss paint, but that wouldn't last long. Black Sharpie pen didn't work for long, either.
If you just -must- have the black whip, skip it, get the chrome one, then get a couple of feet of black heat shrink tubing. Put that over the whip and it'll last a long time. Shine it up periodically with a touch of Armor-All.

Since you are looking at 1/2 wave whips, they don't require a ground plane, so you might be OK with it on the headache rack. The 1/2 waves have 0dB of gain (equivalent of a 1/4 wave) when used without a ground plane and will tune up just fine. With a ground plane they have about 2.5dB of gain.
Putting a lopsided ground plane underneath them, like on the side of a truck hood, will still skew off the radiation pattern, but it'll probably tune up OK. Still, not an ideal location. On the headache rack, it might work a bit better.

I'd still strongly suggest the permanent mount. It might be a good idea to pay someone to do it for you if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. It's OK to admit that. It's not hard to do, though, but it does take a proper type of hole saw and a bit of careful measuring. Other thing to consider is having the installer put the connector on the end of the cable for you. The CDM-1550 will need a Mini-UHF type connector, by the way...
Having the installer do it all for you would probably be less than $100 and you'd have a much better looking and performing radio system. Cutting corners on the antenna install never pays off. You'll be happier in the long run.

While not an ideal photo, here is the 1/4 wave VHF whip on the roof of my F-150.
 

KN1IGHT

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Messages
25
Location
Earth: Undisclosed Location
Yes, that's actually an old photo. The current configuration is the CDM1550 head mounted where it is in the photo with a head for a Kenwood NX-900 underneath it. Behind the control heads there are two large Motorola remote speakers. Here's a more recent photo. You can see one of them behind the control head. It's mounted to the vertical plastic piece under the dash. It's pretty easy to remove that vertical to mount the speaker and run the wiring:


The CDM's are pretty loud as is, but limited in dynamic range due to the smallish speaker cone. Adding the external speaker really gives both radios a very nice full sound and more volume than I'll ever need. At full volume, it'll hurt your ears. No issues at all hearing the radio clearly at 65MPH with all the windows down.

While not necessary, I'd recommend putting the external speaker in. It makes enough difference in the sound to be worth the effort. Also, if you work outside of the truck, it's plenty loud enough if you have the windows down.

I'll definitely be looking at the external speaker. Even though the speed limit is 10 km/h in the park, I'll still look at it. Might try install it like this gentleman did here in his F150 Raptor. If I'm outside of the truck I normally have a portable on my belt that I'd be using for communication. My F150 has manual windows, so only the driver side would be down at any given time.

Go with the B4502n. The only issue with the BB4502N is that the black coating on the whip will look really good for a few months. Then the bugs, stones, etc. start to chip away at the coating. After a while the whip starts to look like crap. The metal underneath the powder coating starts to shine through. Within a year you'll be hating yourself for spending the extra money on it. The chrome whip will look good for a lifetime.
I made the mistake of using a Larsen whip with the black coating on one of my older trucks. Looked really slick for a while, but then, not so much. I'd try touching it up with a little bit of black gloss paint, but that wouldn't last long. Black Sharpie pen didn't work for long, either.
If you just -must- have the black whip, skip it, get the chrome one, then get a couple of feet of black heat shrink tubing. Put that over the whip and it'll last a long time. Shine it up periodically with a touch of Armor-All.

Good point. I thought of that right after I posted. I'll probably take that chrome 12.5" one for the CDM1550 on a hood mount. I do still plan on the HAM Radio being on somewhere around the roof height

Since you are looking at 1/2 wave whips, they don't require a ground plane, so you might be OK with it on the headache rack. The 1/2 waves have 0dB of gain (equivalent of a 1/4 wave) when used without a ground plane and will tune up just fine. With a ground plane they have about 2.5dB of gain.
Putting a lopsided ground plane underneath them, like on the side of a truck hood, will still skew off the radiation pattern, but it'll probably tune up OK. Still, not an ideal location. On the headache rack, it might work a bit better.

The HAM Radio is still going to come after the CDM1550. While I do understand the ground plane aspect, the CDM1550 antenna being on the hood mount shouldn't be a problem considering the average distance, between myself, my friend & a park staff member. I'll still try get the HAM Radio antenna to roof height at least

I'd still strongly suggest the permanent mount. It might be a good idea to pay someone to do it for you if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. It's OK to admit that. It's not hard to do, though, but it does take a proper type of hole saw and a bit of careful measuring. Other thing to consider is having the installer put the connector on the end of the cable for you. The CDM-1550 will need a Mini-UHF type connector, by the way...
Having the installer do it all for you would probably be less than $100 and you'd have a much better looking and performing radio system. Cutting corners on the antenna install never pays off. You'll be happier in the long run.

I'll definitely look at that. I have to go to town tomorrow, so I'll try make a stop in at the dealer/ installer there, and see what the cost would be, & maybe see if they have the hood mount & that antenna there, and see what they're worth. Maybe see what a CDM1550 is worth there.

While not an ideal photo, here is the 1/4 wave VHF whip on the roof of my F-150.

Center of the roof, I presume? How high is that one?

Cheers,

KN1IGHT
 
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