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Old 11-11-2017, 6:22 PM
   
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Default 2011 2500HD Sierra Rigrunner over voltage

I have a 2500HD with a rigrunner installed that continues to shut off due to the alternator pushing out more than 15 volts. Its a factory 2 battery install wired in parallel without an isolator.

I have a few USB adapters, dashcam, and a kenwood 281 wired into the rigrunner. Overall load at rest is less than 1 amp. I don't see how the load from the rigrunner would cause the alternator to push out the high voltage.

One battery is less than a few weeks old, the other has been tested after deep charging for a night. I'm at a loss - any ideas why the alternator pushes out the 15-15.2V? Could i put a voltage regulator between the battery and rigrunner? Any help is appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:45 PM
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First off, running dual batteries without an isolator is counter-intuitive. All your accessories should run off the secondary battery and be protected by the GM part for this application: More Information for ACDELCO 12135194

Your alternator should not be putting out more than 14.2 volts, and has an internal regulator so another one would not fix the initial problem. Sounds like it needs to be replaced. Very easy to pop it off and take it to the local shop to be tested.
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Old 11-12-2017, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResQguy View Post
First off, running dual batteries without an isolator is counter-intuitive. All your accessories should run off the secondary battery and be protected by the GM part for this application: More Information for ACDELCO 12135194

Your alternator should not be putting out more than 14.2 volts, and has an internal regulator so another one would not fix the initial problem. Sounds like it needs to be replaced. Very easy to pop it off and take it to the local shop to be tested.
One thing the OP failed to mention was whether or not the truck is a 6.0 or 6.6. The 6.0, when ordered with dual batteries came with the isolator. However, the 6.6 does not have an isolator on it. In fact, none of the Big 3 diesels have isolators on their batteries (and they've all been dual battery setups since the 80's). You traditionally don't but the isolator on the diesels.
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Old 11-12-2017, 9:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MCore25 View Post
One thing the OP failed to mention was whether or not the truck is a 6.0 or 6.6. The 6.0, when ordered with dual batteries came with the isolator. However, the 6.6 does not have an isolator on it. In fact, none of the Big 3 diesels have isolators on their batteries (and they've all been dual battery setups since the 80's). You traditionally don't but the isolator on the diesels.
This is true, as they use both to start the engine in those models. I assumed since it wasn't mentioned this was the gasser. Anyway, 15V is 15V no bueno.
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Old 11-12-2017, 1:19 PM
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I had a 1994 GMC gas 5.7l with the dual battery setup. It only uses one of the batteries as the starter. The other battery is isolated via a relay that is only closed when the engine is running. With the key off or in "start" the relay is open and the secondary battery is isolated from the rest of the electrical system. I used it for a radio and a winch. Worked fine. When the truck got older, I replaced the batteries. The starting battery was replaced with a starting battery. The secondary battery was replaced with a "dual service" starting/deep cycle battery. Stayed that way until I sold it.

The Diesels are paralleled together, 12 volts from both batteries all the time.


Things I'd look at:
Check the older battery. If this is a Diesel, I'd probably lean towards replacing both batteries at the same time. Dissimilar battery conditions can cause you some issues.
Check for corrosion, bad connections, etc.
Check the alternator output.
Disconnect the USB adapters and see if the issue goes away, those things are electrically noisy and can be bad news.

Knowing the voltage on the input to the rig runner without the engine running would be useful.
Knowing the voltage on the input to the rig runner with the engine running would be useful.

I probably also wouldn't rule out an issue with the rig-runner itself.
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:19 PM
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My Silverado voltages sometimes were all over the place when the cold weather started. Anywhere between 12v and 15vs. It's something to do with the voltage regulator and the cold.

One time I kept getting around 15vs after I had my truck to the dealer. Looked around and found my ground connection to the battery was loose. Tightened it back up and it returned to the normal range of 12-15.
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Old 11-14-2017, 1:18 PM
   
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Clearing up a few details:

It is a 6.0 Gas engine

Apparently this was not a factory 2 battery install but rather just an addition after the fact. The 2nd battery is wired to the alternator through the engine compartment fuse box and to the cranking battery with this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had the alternator tested at a shop - it checked out and even watched as they tested a new one on the truck that pushed out the same 15-15.2V while running.

Voltage without engine: 12.8-13.2V
Voltage with engine: 14.2-15.2

Older battery is an ACDelco rated at 780 CCA - testing showed it at 13v and output 762 CCA.

Another item i neglected to mention is how intermittent the spike is. It will be stable at 14.4 for days then suddenly when i'm on the road the dashcam resets. I immediately curse the gods of electricity, look at my readouts and see 15V on the dash and the Rigrunner. Then it will persist for days.

I have a raspberrypi zero that i'm setting up as a ODBII data logger to try and find some corollary event with the spikes.

The next time this occurs i'll remove the USBs, then the rigrunner and see if the voltage drops.
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Old 11-14-2017, 1:56 PM
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Sounds a lot like a loose or corroded connection to me.
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Old 11-15-2017, 9:56 PM
   
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmckenna View Post
Sounds a lot like a loose or corroded connection to me.
Loose/poor connections are always my go to check for electrical issues - just not the case here.
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