1st time mobile radio install help needed

[huntingbuddy]

I have a ICOM 5021 VHF radio I need to install in my 2007 Chevy Tahoe. I am comfortable with electronics and soldering but I have never installed something in my car. What tips do you have?

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[12dbsinad]

Take your time and think everything through. Get your 12V power from under the hood either at the battery or at the fuseblock feed stud, make sure to use a minimum of a #12 wire and fuse at 20A. If you want to control it on/off with the ignition, install a 30A relay under the steering wheel. You can find a ignition switched fuse in the fuseblock, Use a fuse "add a circuit" piggy back fuse tap or a mini ATM with the soldered on wire (the correct amp value as original) but make sure to install a fuseholder and fuse around 2A to protect the relay coil. This relay will pull all the power from the main feed under the hood and use the fuseblock fuse as a small turn on signal, that is the proper way to do it. Find a good body ground, I am not a fan of grounding directly to the battery, there are reasons for this but I won't get into it here.

Next, install your antenna dead center of your roof. Drill it in. A simple VHF quarter wave will work wonders and isn't too tall. If you have a way, get it checked with analyzer or wattmeter after your install to check the antenna match.

Take your time, you'll do fine.

 

[westcoaster]

Having the antenna dead center of the roof is the best location for the antenna. Many people including myself compromise performance and mount the antenna using an L bracket beside the hood on the front fender.

I can't have my antenna dead center of the roof as the overhead camper takes up that space currently.
Besides, I really didn't want to drill the roof....

 

[12dbsinad]

Yes, a fender mount would work as a compromise. If the only issue is the idea of not drilling a hole in the roof, try to look at it at this perspective. It really won't degrade the value of the vehicle, it's already depreciating in value everyday you own it regardless. You're putting a radio in it.. either you're going to have a antenna hanging off the front fender visible from the occupants, or one on the roof out of the way and working much better. If you can't because of a camper, etc, then that's a whole other story.

If height is a issue with garages, etc, try looking at a Stico flexi whip antenna. You can bend them down flat without damage. I have one on my pickup due to low overhead garage. Works great.

 

[huntingbuddy]

Take your time and think everything through. Get your 12V power from under the hood either at the battery or at the fuseblock feed stud, make sure to use a minimum of a #12 wire and fuse at 20A. If you want to control it on/off with the ignition, install a 30A relay under the steering wheel. You can find a ignition switched fuse in the fuseblock, Use a fuse "add a circuit" piggy back fuse tap or a mini ATM with the soldered on wire (the correct amp value as original) but make sure to install a fuseholder and fuse around 2A to protect the relay coil. This relay will pull all the power from the main feed under the hood and use the fuseblock fuse as a small turn on signal, that is the proper way to do it. Find a good body ground, I am not a fan of grounding directly to the battery, there are reasons for this but I won't get into it here.

Next, install your antenna dead center of your roof. Drill it in. A simple VHF quarter wave will work wonders and isn't too tall. If you have a way, get it checked with analyzer or wattmeter after your install to check the antenna match.

Take your time, you'll do fine.

Thank you, that's exactly what I needed.

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[huntingbuddy]

Yes, a fender mount would work as a compromise. If the only issue is the idea of not drilling a hole in the roof, try to look at it at this perspective. It really won't degrade the value of the vehicle, it's already depreciating in value everyday you own it regardless. You're putting a radio in it.. either you're going to have a antenna hanging off the front fender visible from the occupants, or one on the roof out of the way and working much better. If you can't because of a camper, etc, then that's a whole other story.

If height is a issue with garages, etc, try looking at a Stico flexi whip antenna. You can bend them down flat without damage. I have one on my pickup due to low overhead garage. Works great.

My plan for now is to mount the antenna on my hood. I was issued a half wave antenna and I don't have that much clearance in my garage for it. I will take a look at the Stico antenna. Thanks again for your help.

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[WB4UR_Sean]

Run the power directly to the battery and fuse both Positive and Negative. Never go to the fuse block.

 

[ten13]

I agree with the roof mounted antenna.

Having had both roof mount (on an older car) and fender mount (on present car), and working in the same geographical area off the same repeaters, there is a positive difference with the roof mount. But, due to a sun roof and a few other details, I opted for the fender mount this time.

It's not a "critical" difference, but I notice it, but I take it for what it is now.

I also recommend going directly to the battery for power, properly fused.

I would also recommend that, if you have no first-hand experience installing it in a vehicle, that you either lay out the money and have a shop do it, or find a friend, of a friend, of a friend, who does it a lot, even in his driveway. He'll probably have the right tools to prevent unnecessary damage...to both the radio and the vehicle...and be able to correct mistakes along the way.

 

[AI7PM]

Not necessary to run negative to the battery. On some newer vehicles, (Hall Effect sensors) you should not run negative to the battery.