I just built an 866 mhz quarter wave stub for the handheld and it is doing great. Although these stubs are used for notching, I didn't care about the notch and just wanted to apply some overall attenuation on 800 mhz everwhere before I reached for the attenuation button. I read the other threads about stubs and wanted to try it out.
1) Attached a bnc-tee to the handheld with a male-male bnc adapter, RS 800mhz duck to the other side, and then the stub to the center of the tee.
2) This stub is nothing more than 2.5 inches long **as measured from the middle of the tee**. I just cut up an RG-58 jumper I had laying around, and what's cool is that the cut is just past the point of where the injection molding of the jumper ends. Looks like I'm hanging a race-antenna off it. I've read the threads about using low-loss coax for a good notch, but in this case, I don't mind the higher loss rg-58 for general attenuation instead of a sharp notch.
Now the 164 itself is not attenuated, and things are peachy. What's really cool is that I now have somewhere to go if I wanted even more attenuation with the built-in 20db attenuator. The other bands don't even know the stub is there.
I'm still playing with it and I'm sure I've really put a notch on something somewhere, but I don't have any test equipment to see it. It's going to take a bit of listening to my other 900mhz systems and do comparisons.
Either way, the stub is so small that it doesn't make the 164 top heavy, and just hangs rigidly over the volume/squelch controls without extending too far beyond the chassis. Neat!
Update: I couldn't wait very long so I sat on my 866 mhz control channel and trimmed it back from 2.5 inches about 1/6th inch at a time. BAM! Got the stub right on freq and compared to the built-in attenuator, they are about the same in effectiveness! So on this freq, we're talking about 40db attenuation at my disposal.
That is the FIRST time I ever had an open-stub work for me.
1) Attached a bnc-tee to the handheld with a male-male bnc adapter, RS 800mhz duck to the other side, and then the stub to the center of the tee.
2) This stub is nothing more than 2.5 inches long **as measured from the middle of the tee**. I just cut up an RG-58 jumper I had laying around, and what's cool is that the cut is just past the point of where the injection molding of the jumper ends. Looks like I'm hanging a race-antenna off it. I've read the threads about using low-loss coax for a good notch, but in this case, I don't mind the higher loss rg-58 for general attenuation instead of a sharp notch.
Now the 164 itself is not attenuated, and things are peachy. What's really cool is that I now have somewhere to go if I wanted even more attenuation with the built-in 20db attenuator. The other bands don't even know the stub is there.
I'm still playing with it and I'm sure I've really put a notch on something somewhere, but I don't have any test equipment to see it. It's going to take a bit of listening to my other 900mhz systems and do comparisons.
Either way, the stub is so small that it doesn't make the 164 top heavy, and just hangs rigidly over the volume/squelch controls without extending too far beyond the chassis. Neat!
Update: I couldn't wait very long so I sat on my 866 mhz control channel and trimmed it back from 2.5 inches about 1/6th inch at a time. BAM! Got the stub right on freq and compared to the built-in attenuator, they are about the same in effectiveness! So on this freq, we're talking about 40db attenuation at my disposal.
That is the FIRST time I ever had an open-stub work for me.
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