Com-Tech51H8
bureaucratic absence of presence.
i plan on adding more stuff but not sure yet when and where. choices choice choices.....
05 chevy impala 9c1 version 1.0
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i plan on adding more stuff but not sure yet when and where. choices choice choices.....
jparks29
John McClane
No. On so many levels. No.
unfused wires. Wires in crimp areas. Wires exposed to bare metal. Crappy mount..
Is that BNC connector held on by electrical tape?
Get split loom. Drill a hole in the firewall, or use an existing grommet.
Use a fuse, running direct to battery will kill your battery if you forget to turn your scanner off. You're better off wiring it to a switched ignition source, or get a timer.
They have a 'universal CB mount' that can be used to mount under the AC control area... it'll look a lot better .
EDIT: Even a 'cheap' way of doing it, is just tap into the switched ignition source that feeds your radio, that's usually fused ~10A and will have no problem powering a scanner.
unfused wires. Wires in crimp areas. Wires exposed to bare metal. Crappy mount..
Is that BNC connector held on by electrical tape?
Get split loom. Drill a hole in the firewall, or use an existing grommet.
Use a fuse, running direct to battery will kill your battery if you forget to turn your scanner off. You're better off wiring it to a switched ignition source, or get a timer.
They have a 'universal CB mount' that can be used to mount under the AC control area... it'll look a lot better .
EDIT: Even a 'cheap' way of doing it, is just tap into the switched ignition source that feeds your radio, that's usually fused ~10A and will have no problem powering a scanner.
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Com-Tech51H8
bureaucratic absence of presence.
its on a fuse. thats hidden nothing is on bare metal. the setup was given to me for free so im not complaing eventually i will get a better solution jotto desk. im sorry if this setup has offend you in any way shape or form.
FFPM571
Member
If its a 9C1 there is a bundle of wires there on the passneger side. You can use power from there. Right now it looks like a fire waiting to happen.
jparks29
John McClane
Doesnt offend me at all. But you can do a lot better just by spending some extra time doing the wiring,
If it works for you, that's all that matters,but i wouldnt go showing it off unless you're expecting a lot of criticism.
KM4WLV
Member
No one is knocking you for trying, we all started somewhere.........
What we want to do is "encourage" you to clean it up some. If you have it fused that's great, it's a start. The power wires through the door jam is a really bad idea. Not safe at all, fused or not. If this is in fact a 9C1 as stated then you should have no problem finding somewhere to come through the fire wall.
Also, I'd consider grounding the scanner inside. The shorter the ground the better.
Again, not trying to knock your job, but the one's of us that are commenting have been doing it a while now. I've been at it about 12 years (installing, professionally). If I can offer any help, or you need suggestions I'll be glad to help.
motorola_otaku
Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2002
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- 691
If that is a 9C1 vehicle (VIN starts with 2G1WF55K) then you don't need to penetrate the firewall for power for a single radio.. it's all in the accessory wiring harness.
Look underneath the floormat on the passenger side or under the dash beneath the kick panel and you will find a blunt-cut wire bundle with a lot of wires and plugs sticking out of it. You will only need the wires sticking out of the end. Look for a 12-gauge black, 12-gauge orange, 14-gauge dark blue and dark green, and 18-gauge pink, yellow, light blue, and light green.
Orange - 12V+ constant
Black - Chassis ground
Dark blue, dark green - Relay-switched 12V+
Light blue, light green - Relay trigger lines for relay-switched 12V+ lines. Paired light blue/light green and dark blue/dark green.
Yellow - 12V+ on with ignition and off in start. DO NOT USE TO POWER A RADIO DIRECTLY - attach it to the relay trigger lines and used the relay-switched outputs if you want ignition-switched power.
Pink - Same as yellow, but does not cut out in start.
If you don't want to turn the radio on and off with the ignition switch, just use the orange and black wires for + and -. If you want to turn it on and off with the ignition switch, tie the light blue and yellow wires together and use the light green wire and black wire. for + and -.
Oh, also, instead of using electrical tape and twisting, go pick up a pack of ring terminals and butt splices from AutoZone, and a set of crimper pliers from Home Depot. You can also get split-loom tubing from AutoZone to insulate your under-carpet wiring with. And while you're at the Depot getting your crimpers, pick up a bag of black zip ties to secure everything with. All of these items combined and used properly will give you a secure, reliable, and professional install that will outlast the car.
Look underneath the floormat on the passenger side or under the dash beneath the kick panel and you will find a blunt-cut wire bundle with a lot of wires and plugs sticking out of it. You will only need the wires sticking out of the end. Look for a 12-gauge black, 12-gauge orange, 14-gauge dark blue and dark green, and 18-gauge pink, yellow, light blue, and light green.
Orange - 12V+ constant
Black - Chassis ground
Dark blue, dark green - Relay-switched 12V+
Light blue, light green - Relay trigger lines for relay-switched 12V+ lines. Paired light blue/light green and dark blue/dark green.
Yellow - 12V+ on with ignition and off in start. DO NOT USE TO POWER A RADIO DIRECTLY - attach it to the relay trigger lines and used the relay-switched outputs if you want ignition-switched power.
Pink - Same as yellow, but does not cut out in start.
If you don't want to turn the radio on and off with the ignition switch, just use the orange and black wires for + and -. If you want to turn it on and off with the ignition switch, tie the light blue and yellow wires together and use the light green wire and black wire. for + and -.
Oh, also, instead of using electrical tape and twisting, go pick up a pack of ring terminals and butt splices from AutoZone, and a set of crimper pliers from Home Depot. You can also get split-loom tubing from AutoZone to insulate your under-carpet wiring with. And while you're at the Depot getting your crimpers, pick up a bag of black zip ties to secure everything with. All of these items combined and used properly will give you a secure, reliable, and professional install that will outlast the car.
pjtnascar
Member
I won't knock your install, as I had a similar setup in 1981 Plymouh Reliant when I installed my first CB back in '95. After having to repair the setup a few times because:
A. My girlfriend at the time got her foot tangled in the wire and yanked it out. (This seems to go along with the way girls manage to scrunch up car floor mats, too)
B. The wire rubbed through and shorted out in the door jamb.
Grab a cheapie volt meter or test light at auto zone, or even a dollar store if you want to double check the wiring points the guys pointed out. Use wire into that. I would use the tap splices made by 3M if you need to splice into the wires. Its easy to do.
You could also tap into the cigarette lighter, or the power wires to the car stereo.
Dont let these guys get you down. We all did wiring jobs like this back in the day at some point, and learned from our mistakes. Take a bit more time and make it legit so you can show it off, and also make it more attractive to the ladies.
My older brother's car stereo install method in his 86 Buick Skylark- Cut off factory radio wiring harness, then sit with a 9 volt battery and try to figure out what wire went to which speaker. (even though I told him to buy the adapter kit for 10 bucks) I never did understand that method. I think he tried to find the power wires with a lightbulb or something, but the fuse kept blowing for some reason?
When this failed, he duct taped two deck mount radio shack speakers to the rear deck, then ran clear speaker wires to them, thumb tacked to the headliner, with a cigarette lighter plug taped to the power wires.
I think Jeff Foxworthy or Bill Engvall would have something to say about my brother's engineering work....
A. My girlfriend at the time got her foot tangled in the wire and yanked it out. (This seems to go along with the way girls manage to scrunch up car floor mats, too)
B. The wire rubbed through and shorted out in the door jamb.
Grab a cheapie volt meter or test light at auto zone, or even a dollar store if you want to double check the wiring points the guys pointed out. Use wire into that. I would use the tap splices made by 3M if you need to splice into the wires. Its easy to do.
You could also tap into the cigarette lighter, or the power wires to the car stereo.
Dont let these guys get you down. We all did wiring jobs like this back in the day at some point, and learned from our mistakes. Take a bit more time and make it legit so you can show it off, and also make it more attractive to the ladies.
My older brother's car stereo install method in his 86 Buick Skylark- Cut off factory radio wiring harness, then sit with a 9 volt battery and try to figure out what wire went to which speaker. (even though I told him to buy the adapter kit for 10 bucks) I never did understand that method. I think he tried to find the power wires with a lightbulb or something, but the fuse kept blowing for some reason?
When this failed, he duct taped two deck mount radio shack speakers to the rear deck, then ran clear speaker wires to them, thumb tacked to the headliner, with a cigarette lighter plug taped to the power wires.
I think Jeff Foxworthy or Bill Engvall would have something to say about my brother's engineering work....
kadetklapp
Member
Seriously, start over.
This is not too difficult. If that is a 9C1, it either has an auxiliary fuse block or an accessory wiring harness under the dash somewhere. Easy to tap into. Ground the scanner inside the car, lots of places to choose from. Do. Not. Ever. run wire to the engine compartment in the manner in which you did. I last did that in high school with an amp wire. Dumb dumb dumb.
This is not too difficult. If that is a 9C1, it either has an auxiliary fuse block or an accessory wiring harness under the dash somewhere. Easy to tap into. Ground the scanner inside the car, lots of places to choose from. Do. Not. Ever. run wire to the engine compartment in the manner in which you did. I last did that in high school with an amp wire. Dumb dumb dumb.
Com-Tech51H8
bureaucratic absence of presence.
If that is a 9C1 vehicle (VIN starts with 2G1WF55K) then you don't need to penetrate the firewall for power for a single radio.. it's all in the accessory wiring harness.
Look underneath the floormat on the passenger side or under the dash beneath the kick panel and you will find a blunt-cut wire bundle with a lot of wires and plugs sticking out of it. You will only need the wires sticking out of the end. Look for a 12-gauge black, 12-gauge orange, 14-gauge dark blue and dark green, and 18-gauge pink, yellow, light blue, and light green.
Orange - 12V+ constant
Black - Chassis ground
Dark blue, dark green - Relay-switched 12V+
Light blue, light green - Relay trigger lines for relay-switched 12V+ lines. Paired light blue/light green and dark blue/dark green.
Yellow - 12V+ on with ignition and off in start. DO NOT USE TO POWER A RADIO DIRECTLY - attach it to the relay trigger lines and used the relay-switched outputs if you want ignition-switched power.
Pink - Same as yellow, but does not cut out in start.
If you don't want to turn the radio on and off with the ignition switch, just use the orange and black wires for + and -. If you want to turn it on and off with the ignition switch, tie the light blue and yellow wires together and use the light green wire and black wire. for + and -.
Oh, also, instead of using electrical tape and twisting, go pick up a pack of ring terminals and butt splices from AutoZone, and a set of crimper pliers from Home Depot. You can also get split-loom tubing from AutoZone to insulate your under-carpet wiring with. And while you're at the Depot getting your crimpers, pick up a bag of black zip ties to secure everything with. All of these items combined and used properly will give you a secure, reliable, and professional install that will outlast the car.
2G1WF52E is my vin which i was told was still a 9c1....
Actually, both VIN's are used on the 2005 Impala 9C1.
OsloViking1975
Member
Nice little setup.
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