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11M Bandpass Filter

slowmover

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Saw an older thread (closed), so am going to add two-cents as “answer” to question asked of, is it effective?

Yes
(and the rest of this a very long foot-note of context).

My experience is purely as a mobile application in big trucks where RF Noise from on-board sources and the general difficulty of best antenna-mount RF Bond are constants.

Understand that, spending as an experiment is not what I consider to be a determinant against what is considered to be successful if it doesn’t quite work out (can go in box of spare gear & supply for other systems).

I’ve had an ICE brand (formerly, Morgan Systems) 11-Meter Bandpass Filter for several years and found that it does drop the noise floor in this vehicle-type. (Under the working assumption that the antenna & coax are already as ideal as can be; vehicle RF Bonds applied; quality components otherwise; etc).

Posting this as getting ready to drill a hole in the heavy steel shelf above the windshield (KW-T680) to act as a single-point ground. Have to stop off at home to pick up a double-male coax connector and a jumper to insert the 411cb unit to ascertain whether again it’s worth the trouble to use.

This present radio system (since 8/2021) is the quietest I’ve had in a big truck thus far. About four (4) years of experiment. An assortment of gear and approaches. 12,000-hours of use, give or take.

There are several vendors and the 11M models may be available by request. The ICE 411cb is advertised as such, and due to space constraints was the the one I chose. “Better” designs are possible (circuitry). Be aware of fine-print power-handling limits.

My thoughts — initially and to the present — are that to reduce the transceiver workload is, first, a positive, and that to reduce outgoing harmonics is the other.

1). Where the radio system was already as quiet as one could make it atop the priority of a maximum TX/RX distance match (RF Bonds, primarily, once past no-noise 12V); and,

2). Given mobile use across the country (dead-silent far rural to heavy-noise metros) 300-days/year and 10-12/hrs of daily use:

my experience is that it has been worth the trouble and expense where DSP filtration is present in the audio portion of the system.

— CB Radios lack the discrete filtering capabilities of Amateur Radio gear.
DSP is a huge change where a BPF is a minor change. (A $200 AM/SSB radio so-equipped has better ears than the top $400+ radios without such).

Presently, I’ve in use some P-E coax filters at antenna feedpoints (14’ total height) and at transceiver. The BPF might be superfluous, except to bond coax nearest transceiver.

Have posted this as noise in a mobile system can seem impossible to tame having been diligent via best practice: I wonder if that’d help?

A qualified
Yes

Noise Control (abatement) is sorta like clearing underbrush from the forest. The trees stand out better, afterwards. DSP is a BIG change (don’t leave home without it), while a BPF is a lot more of a maybe.

It works to ease the life of the transceiver, but can you take advantage of the little that’s on offer?

As I relish the ability to audibly capture those faintest signals, I’m happy with the marginal success. My job has DIRECT effects from knowing road-related problems.

The faint signals captured may be a couple of rock-haulers with low-dollar rigs trading info about the route I’m on. Well off of the main road while getting re-loaded . They’re just exchanging some short-hand notes. (Believe me that they’re NOT heard by 99% of other truck drivers)

Those short-hand notes are a wake-up to me to start making inquiries. With EVERYTHING I’ve got. Timeliness, Safety, and Stress-Level are all at stake before the question of net income.

Is your job one where if you screw up, people die?

The total $$ in my radio system is above and beyond what private vehicles require to match or exceed a composite-body big truck in performance. Easily twice (four figure). So adding 5% more doesn’t seem like much.

Yeah, I’d recommend the experiment (ARRL guides to same for DIY), but not without trying everything else first (repeatedly, till proven) but ain’t gonna listen to crying, as in your use it may not matter at all.


Mobile Install Bible


Is the source of HOW to exhaust every angle beforehand.


Someone else will kindly explain the use of a BPF in Amateur Contesting, etc. The “normal” reasons for this acquisition.

.
 
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slowmover

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Forgot to mention that grounding the coax AT the transceiver with an inexpensive lightning arrestor should precede using a BPF while mobile.

This example by WORKMANN is $10 or less. Use same ground point as power.

An ICE 411cb has two (2) points to ground.

The “Arrestor” is a lot cheaper to try.
Grounds the coax shield.

May/may not be “effective”.
But nothing to lose in the experiment.

E2926269-760A-4F06-84EF-5B93ABF7BB94.jpeg

“Might” lend clarity to how effective is a BPF in a mobile where a shield ground is used.

.
 
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arudlang

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Hello, new guy here just searching around and learning.

I have found that Morgan Systems still sells the M-431cb and the M-411CB bandpass filters.
The M-411CB model is $80 currently and the M-431cb is $150. The more expensive one is described as the newer, improved model.

Either way these things are not cheap but if they are worth it I might be able to scrounge up some change for one or two...

Anyone have some opinion or advice on whether they are worth it for

1) A home base station setup with a Hy-Gain CLR-2 tied to a Bearcat 980SSB via 50 feet of cable, no amp. Antenna base is about 36-37 feet off the ground, I have an overhead power line about 30ish feet away that is just under the counterpoise. Other things I deal with at this base station is a couple nearby metal buildings, one of which is two stories tall, I'm inside a small town with a bit of development around me, uphill and south of me about one mile are three radio/cell towers that can be plainly seen from my house.

2) A mobile setup on a Jeep Cherokee with another 980SSB and a President Electronics "New Virginia" 20 inch low profile antenna. I have not bought the stuff for this setup yet but hoping to soon, but its still possible that the radio and antenna could change. I might have to go to a no ground plane antenna since the roof of the Cherokee is the panoramic glass roof, very little metal up there to put a magnetic antenna on but I could put a NGP firestik on one of the roof rack crossbars instead.

Is the more expensive filter worth it for one scenario or the other or both? What could I hope to achieve in exchange for the lightening of my wallet? Less static? Less interference from the car and the nearby obstructions?

I won't typically be trying to communicate long-range with the car setup. Mostly would be for multi-car road trips with family and friends where we try to stay together as a group. In heavy traffic going through cities we can sometimes get separated by as much as a mile but not normally more than that at worst. Nobody wants to have to set the squelch so low that they have to listen to static to hear the other cars of course, that is my main concern with the mobile units but of course in the case of friends and families cars they are just going to get a quick and dirty temp setup from me with a mag mount centerload and whatever spare radio I have lying around. Not really willing to add a filter to the mix unless it really makes a huge difference.

For my base station at home its a little different, I'm trying to reach some family members who are barely in-range 6ish miles away and trying to exhaust all other options before resorting to amplification. There again I want to listen to as little static as possible, transmit clearly, and use as little squelch as feasible to make those contacts. Maybe the more expensive filter would be worth it here?
 
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vagrant

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The more important point is if you are transmitting or receiving interference with your CB. If not, a filter is not necessary. Before I would spend money on those $80~$150 filters, I would try a $20-$30 low pass filter like the Kenwood LF-30A and I think EF Johnson makes a low pass filter as well. Basically, signals below 30 MHz pass through the filter. Signals above that are gradually attenuated. Still, you may not need any filter for #1 or #2 scenario. The filters above mainly pass signals just in the 11 meter band for CB and would be useful if you receive or cause interference below 11 meters.

Optionally, a 1:1 choke on the coax before the radio may or may not resolve issues, whether mobile or at home. At home I use an RF choke where my coax connects to my ham radio antenna and it helps cut down the noise. Others use one there at the feed point and also use another one after the coax enters their shack just before the radio. I tried both and only the one at the antenna helped to cut down the noise here. A choke may or may not help you.

#1 To improve your station at home, your antenna seems fine, presuming the proximity to the power line would not cause problems if the antenna fell onto it, mast and all. If your SWR is fine on that antenna, then you're probably good, but it is worth checking your forward and reflected power using a meter as well. Those metal buildings are probably not doing you any favors for TX/RX in their direction.

#2 A 20 inch antenna for CB is going to be a poor performer. 11 meters is around 433 inches and sizing that down to 20 inches will have unfavorable results. Search this forum for mobile CB antennas. There is a thread or two on here about a particular brand of antenna around 50 to 60 inches in length. Perhaps someone will chime in about it. I do not recall the name and model right off, but it was probably Larsen or Laird with an NMO base connector. It definitely was not a Tram/Browning.

If you want a better setup for CB, use a ball mount with a spring and a 102" whip antenna. That will get you close enough to 109 inches which is around a quarter of 433 inches. Putting that top-dead-center of a vehicle roof is best, but no one is going to do that and we see them mounted on the back end or side of vehicles. When I used CB I would use a simple loaded Firestick for day-to-day use on a ball mount with a spring. The 3/8 thread on the mount allowed me to easily swap out to a 102" whip before driving off road, or in the hills.
 

krokus

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Another option for the antenna on the Jeep, mount it on a fender. I had an XJ Cherokee with a K40 mounted to the hood, on the driver's side, with the type of mount that is typically used for trunks. It worked pretty well, and was useful on multiple cross-country trips.
 

KC3ECJ

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Any reasonably priced filters to block out the 2 meter band but still allow 26-27mhz and 160mhz NOAA band to the CB?
 

slowmover

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Palomar Engineers
Coax Common Mode Noise Filter
CMNF 500-50

Is what I use at the mobile transceiver.


Coax Choke Isolator
MC-1 500-50

At the mobile antenna feedpoint.


Their website has much to go through (a good thing). Easy to deal with as a supplier. I’ve likely spent $1k there the past five years; alleviation of multiple TYPES of problems.

A BPF has its place, but other approaches are more conventional & accepted. (BPF is kind of a stretch; why I posted were someone wondering).

The DIY version of noise-reduction is in using ferrites. Bang-for-buck is high (but be sure of supplier!).

A base station antenna has more options due to space, etc.

.
 
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vagrant

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Any reasonably priced filters to block out the 2 meter band but still allow 26-27mhz and 160mhz NOAA band to the CB?
Just build yourself a coax stub filter. There are plans and calculations online you will need. You can use RG58 to make it. You'll need a UHF T connector. One side connects to the back of the radio, another side has the stub coax filter and the other is for your antenna coax connector. It will probably be just over a foot / 30cm long if you use RG58. Please note the stub filter will attenuate 2m, but not totally block it. Use 146MHz as the notch frequency center.

You can also contact Dale Parfitt and request he make a custom filter for you. His regular filters are around $80, so expect at least that. He can get very busy, so if you don't get a reply in a few days, just email him again. Even after you get a reply, it may take several weeks for him to get it ready. Tell him exactly how you plan to use it and what you want to hear, just like you did in your post.

Choke/Noise Filter
Also note that an alternative to purchasing a 1:1 choke/noise filter/isolator is to simply use at least five ( I prefer six ) mix 43 or mix 31 ferrite beads at the antenna feed point. You simply clamp them onto your existing coax. The cost is friendlier and one could purchase enough beads for both ends of the coax for the price of one Palomar choke. One could also use one or more ferrite rings and wrap coax around it. Put it into a box and add some UHF female ends and make your own. Still, $60 is a fair price for the Palomar. For whatever choke method is used outdoors, you will need to protect it, or the environment will eventually destroy it. MyAntennas.com also make a 1:1 choke and that is what I use outdoors with a multi-band antenna.

For many, testing with at least six beads at the antenna feed point is prudent due to the low cost. If a difference is noted, you could use those beads inside the shack near the radio and out of the sun/rain/snow/ice and purchase a choke balun better suited for outdoor use.
 

spikestabber

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The 411cb filter actually made the crappy 7 notch squelch setting on a Uniden CMX760 more usable, much less interference picked up from canbus/hybrid drive birdies and whatnot on the 5 setting, a radio with ASC will be better however, maybe President will make a Jeep style CMX Bill-style radio with an all-in-the-mic, as these are far superior to hide in modern vehicles above headliner, etc.

I certainly didn't have room for the 431cb either where I wanted to mount it, otherwise would have picked it first. Combine that with a nice mix 31 choke about 5 turns near the feedpoint of the roof NMO, which I have yet to do myself but have on my scanner feed on same vehicle combined with notch filter to extremely good effect, it'll only add to your noise suppression. SDS100 analog transmissions are beautiful in the car now as a result, much less picketing & doesn't annoy my wife anymore.
 

slowmover

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The 411cb filter actually made the crappy 7 notch squelch setting on a Uniden CMX760 more usable, much less interference picked up from canbus/hybrid drive birdies and whatnot on the 5 setting, a radio with ASC will be better however, maybe President will make a Jeep style CMX Bill-style radio with an all-in-the-mic, as these are far superior to hide in modern vehicles above headliner, etc.

I certainly didn't have room for the 431cb either where I wanted to mount it, otherwise would have picked it first. Combine that with a nice mix 31 choke about 5 turns near the feedpoint of the roof NMO, which I have yet to do myself but have on my scanner feed on same vehicle combined with notch filter to extremely good effect, it'll only add to your noise suppression. SDS100 analog transmissions are beautiful in the car now as a result, much less picketing & doesn't annoy my wife anymore.


Being willing to make the experiment (damn the expense) can occasionally pay off.

While I was pleased at the lowered RX noise floor on 11-Meter, I wasn’t prepared for the comments received that my transmitted words were being spoken from a zone of quiet (big trucks are even noisier than I had reckoned ).

A o’scope screenshot of the 411cb on another website showed a very sharp slope.

Worth consideration, but short of a recommendation (lots of stuff to try first, twice and a third time).

I HAVE tried it, the reason for the thread (other one closed). Someone else like me gets to wandering around the ‘Net wondering what might work and he’s bound to run across BPFs.



.
 

KANE4109

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Here is a dumb question (for those who have played with filters!).
Does the filter have effect in BOTH DIRECTIONS?
I have only ever thought about them in regard to transmit....and being more sure that harmonics ABOVE the target frequency don't get out.

That said...DO THEY actually act on the receive signal any? Like if there is noise received by the antenna... will the filter "quieten it down" any in reverse?
 

slowmover

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Yes. As above, a BPF lightens the load on the transceiver.

Since we’re taking CB the filtration is not on a par with most Amateur gear (and is low cost partly for that reason).
 

slowmover

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Got the 411cb installed into this truck (first time).

Haven’t modified the 12V power to ALSO go to the same ground point (temporary original install headed it back to the battery bank); it’s “different” than the P-E filter, in effect.

Initially? Some increase in RX vocal clarity (versus “better” noise reduction).

Suffice it to say:

1). First, RF Bond the coax at the transceiver and at the antenna feedpoint”; then,

2). Try using ferrite products at each end of the coax as well;

before $$ steps like trying the P-E or ICE filters are taken (other brands with other models are out there).



.
 
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spikestabber

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Someone had mentioned a good indicator of success is that the wideband noise that does naturally come through, ie, AC arcing from powerlines, sounds more defined. It certainly does for me too.
 

slowmover

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Someone had mentioned a good indicator of success is that the wideband noise that does naturally come through, ie, AC arcing from powerlines, sounds more defined. It certainly does for me too.


“Noise” never quite goes away (maybe would with an MFJ 784b you could both afford it AND figure out how it works), thus I’d agree that it is possible to reduce and make it MUCH more tolerable.

I’ve been in Ohio & Indiana since mid-afternoon yesterday where CB Radio is a distinct pleasure. DSP in the audio & thread subject has surprised a number of drivers I can hear & converse with them longer than what they are used to experiencing.

Was giving a radio check to a guy about a mile ahead of me and fell to talking afterwards. Had another hand parked at eight miles distant tell us that we were both coming in clearly.

If the ears are good, much else is easy.

The BPF (in my use with my gear, with my systems; etc, etc) does help an AM/SSB CB (Galaxy DX-959b) improve vocal clarity.

Words THEMSELVES aren’t overlain with hash.

Note: (As before) I have not ONLY grounded coax at transceiver which MAY be a significant contributor to clarity, versus using the BPF.

That said (again) I’m happy I swapped filters. Once home I’ll grab the connectors which will allow me to run both filters (before & after) with this little amp.

Space concerns make for some weird power/coax pathways inside the trucks overhead console.
 
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slowmover

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Until the past two days hadn’t spent much time listening to SSB when I’d hear Skip show up on AM-19 (getting away from AM-19 not beneficial).

The mobile radio in use (GALAXY Dx-959b; a strong recommendation given) has a switch marked Galaxy Noise Filter (GNF).

The GNF seemed to promise more than it delivered. Too much blanking. As the radio has the best set of Tone Controls + Filter Switch combinations I can tailor audio to suit whether day/night, metro/rural, etc. Has become an automatic “reach & set” without looking at panel.

With the BPF now installed — and Skip coming in strongly on AM-19 circa 1400 (CDT) out of California the past couple of days, I’ve switched over to listening on 20, 28, and 38-LSB for brief periods on the rural stretches of IH20 this inbound trip.

Now, the GNF is pleasantly effective at highlighting the strongest signals so that one can adjust the clarifier to suit. (Other tone controls to moderate influence).

Transposing my results from a mobile installation in a composite-bodied Kenworth to a private vehicle or base station may not be congruent, but the BPF has added “clarity” without question — now — on AM or SSB in my use.

I haven’t yet tried local
conversations (other drivers) going down the road, but will at some point. If reasonable (with an experienced driver), I’ll try this with AND without the BPF in-line for an ongoing convo (will have to agree to stop twice for the few minutes necessary). Then a third change where I back off in speed 10-mph or greater, letting him get well out ahead.

“Better” antenna mount grounds (RF Bonding there and at other recommended places) may downplay “the effect” I’m experiencing.

Still, the BPF increases clarity in my use such that I think it’s benefit will still be obvious.

While I own a MARS-MOD Yaesu ft450d that is (ahem) “portable”, it’s far too much radio for my liking to use it on the road. But it would (the type; an HF transceiver) be a truer test of what a radio with inbuilt capabilities can perform that I’ve tried to copy using outboard components with a single-final classic-style AM/SSB radio.

Were I in my pickup using the new President Lincoln II acquired last year, I suspect “the effect” might be less. (Works, but “audibility” of RX not increased as greatly as with the 959).

DSP still the key component added.

“Noise Control” as the general subject to cover versus discrete ($$) additions thereafter.

I haven’t finished this mobile installation such that I can say I’ve been as thorough as good practice warrants.

This hedging (again) makes the recommendation — as it has unknowns — a qualified “yes”.

No question that it has (1) upped the game played by the current radio (2) in the current installation.

.
 
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slowmover

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Note: there’s an ideal that a single-point ground for power and coax (at antenna feedpoint) has the least noise. Fewest ground loops. Etc.

Creating such is past my use (ability) in a big truck.

I’d look into that for a private vehicle or base station if it seems it can be done. (DC Shunt).

The ostensible subject is Citizen Band (11-Meter) radio, but, IMO, the installation should be to the highest possible standard (modified).

Mobile Amateur Radio Install

Systems focus, not dwelling upon a component (as with this thread).

.
 

slowmover

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RF Bonds are the first step for noise reduction with a typical mobile install.
 
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