1994 Blaser s-10 and a draw!

[jb872033]

Hello all! I am in need of some input. I have a 94 blazer with all stock parts, and a Uniden BC-350A, a Realistic (radio-shack) trc 449 CB and an after marked CD player in it. It has been having trouble keeping a charge for a while and I took it into the shop today for brakes and asked them to look at that as well. Its a new battery and a new alternator as of November. The reason I got the vehicle was because the previous owner had gotten fed up with the same symptoms that I am having at the moment. The gentelmen at the shop told me that I needed to un-install the scanner and CB, and that he thought that was what the problem was. I on the other hand respectfully disagree with him, faulting the CD player. Now I'm no electrical engineer or anything but I know for a fact that the wiring was done right on the CB and scanner, however it came to me with the CD player installed and the problem had been ongoing. I guess my question is, do you all think that the CB/Scanner really need to be taken out? I am going to further investigate the wiring situation in the CD player when I get it back today. Last question I had, supposing everything was installed right on the CB and the Scanner, is there any way that they could cause a draw like that? playing devil's advocate. Or do you think that I should be looking somewhere else? Thanks for any input in advance!

JB

 

[FFPM571]

You need a multi-tester volt ohm meter to do this correctly. How are your radios connected to the battery directly or though the accessory / fuse box. Do you have to turn them on when you get into the car or when you start it they come on. Id suspect the CD player because to keep the memory in some of the early radios they had to have a 12+ on all the time to keep the memory I am betting its an aftermarket model. With the car off disconnect the battery + and put the meter across the battery and the connection. set the meter to amps. make sure all the accessories are off and the doors are closed. You should have minimal draw of less than .5 amp that is to keep the body computers alive. If its more remove the fuses for the CB Scanner and or CD player til it gets to less than an amp. If you notice a difference with the fuse pulled on that item that is your draw. Im guessing its the CD.

By the way a good mechainc would have gone this route already..

 

[W6KRU]

I once had a rheostat for the dash lights short out and it would drain the battery overnight. I used the method suggested above to track it down. Any good mechanic should be able to figure out something like this pretty quick.

 

[jb872033]

I feel like the guy looked into the truck and saw the gear in there and automatically attributed it to that, and even when I explained about the CD player and that the problem had been there before my stuff was put in he seemed to just play it off to that being the issue. Thanks for the testing tip. I feel like it is the CD player, and i'll inverstigate it this afternoon when they are done with the million dollar brake job! thanks for the infromation guys!

P.S. He offered to find the short for me at the labor rate of $95 an hour, I passes him up on the offer and will trace it myself...

JB

 

[FFPM571]

He is screwing you at $95 an hour... My shop is $60 and that is a shop that is an full upfitter shop they specialize in automotive and 2 way electronics

 

[jb872033]

you arent in CT by any chance are you!! lol... I do a lot of work on my own but the brake lines are all rotted out and they had to make the steel cable that runs to them or what not, def out of my relm of experience but as far as finding the draw I feel confident that I can do that or at least localize it...and thats the posted rate at the shop... $95 an hour...