-
To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:
Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.
If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.
To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.
The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.
For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).
This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.
1996 F150 Power routing
- Thread starter 313RADIO
- Start date
- Status
WD4JKH
Member
I would go for hot to the battery and negative to a good chassis ground...
Some Equipment...
As to your question about "where" to ground, you should experiment as you are installing your radio. The reason I say that is (and there are disagreements on this, but I've lived it) sometimes you need to find the SHORTEST grounding spot, and sometimes it is OK to go clear to the battery.
Try it both ways with the truck running, the headlights ON, wipers ON, heater on HIGH....
See if you get any engine or alternator noise either way. If you do, get noise one way and not the other, THAT would be the best way to run your ground....
I had a Chevy Blazer that drove me crazy with a two-way mobile and alt whine. We finally shortened the ground (removed it from the battert & placed it on the frame "right at" the radio and that took care of the problem of the whine in the RX...)
Steve/KB8FAR :lol:
Some Amateur equipment comes with fused hot (Power) AND ground leads. They recommend that it is done in the event something in the vehicle electrical system goes haywire.
As to your question about "where" to ground, you should experiment as you are installing your radio. The reason I say that is (and there are disagreements on this, but I've lived it) sometimes you need to find the SHORTEST grounding spot, and sometimes it is OK to go clear to the battery.
Try it both ways with the truck running, the headlights ON, wipers ON, heater on HIGH....
See if you get any engine or alternator noise either way. If you do, get noise one way and not the other, THAT would be the best way to run your ground....
I had a Chevy Blazer that drove me crazy with a two-way mobile and alt whine. We finally shortened the ground (removed it from the battert & placed it on the frame "right at" the radio and that took care of the problem of the whine in the RX...)
Steve/KB8FAR :lol:
AllenKelly
Member
Wow need some help, you said you would let us know how it went when you were done and that was in October. Anyhow, don't feel bad it took me 3 years and I still wasn't finished, work and all, My Job ended in June so I ordered new OEM carpet removed all my seats and installed my carpet and ran all the wires to my center console and then reinstalled the seats. It was like new inside, and I was able to finally see my dream come true. Anyhow, I said all of that to say this... I ran an 4 gauge wire from the positive post of my battery to a single fuse block that had an input and an output for 4 gauge wire (I got the fuse block from the car audio section at Wal-mart) the battery had top post and side post. The truck power was tied to the side post so I tied a new 4 gauge replacement battery cable (from the battery section at Walmart) to the top positive post on the battery and the other end to the input of the afor mentioned fuse block. Then I took the red side of a pair of 8 gauge jumper cables (also from Walmart) (It was cheaper to destroy a pair of jumper cables then to purchase a single piece of 4 gauge wire from Radio Shack and it left you with a perfectly good piece of black 4 gauge wire for that time when you might just need it.) Then I tied the other end of the red wire to a fuse block from my local custome car shop that had a 4 gauge input and 2 - 8 gauge outputs I then tied the positive of a distribution block to one side of the fuse block and the positive of a 1500 watt inverter to the other side.
I then took the negative of the distribution block and the negative of the 1500 watt inverter and tied them along with the front passenger seat to one of the seat bolts. (short run) the project has been completed for 5 1/2 months and it works beautifully. I have 14 - 12 volt DC radios and 3 - 110 volt 1500 watt AC outlets and it can't be beat. and it was very simple to do.
paramedszaf
Member
And you don't have any picture documentation of this why?
AllenKelly
Member
Pictures
As you can see I hadn't joined RR.com at that time. I have used the RR.com database as a visitor for years. but I had never moved on to join and become a member and envolve myself in this side of things so I didn't know the importants of taking pictures... all the people I knew that I wanted to help lived in my community and I would just drive my SUV to where ever they were and show them how I did it. But now I understand the importance of taking pictures and making them available to my globle fellow man...
As you can see I hadn't joined RR.com at that time. I have used the RR.com database as a visitor for years. but I had never moved on to join and become a member and envolve myself in this side of things so I didn't know the importants of taking pictures... all the people I knew that I wanted to help lived in my community and I would just drive my SUV to where ever they were and show them how I did it. But now I understand the importance of taking pictures and making them available to my globle fellow man...
Me too. Between this and the other post, I would like to see this install.
Youre gonna get everyone worked up into a lather waiting on this one.
Rich
AllenKelly
Member
?? Pictures
I would love to post pictures of the install work, but it is completed and there's not much to see.. the finished product is under carpet and in the console. not much to see.
I would love to post pictures of the install work, but it is completed and there's not much to see.. the finished product is under carpet and in the console. not much to see.
code3cowboy
Member
The ford has a nice big rubber grommet in the area of the gas pedal. Great place to run your wiring.
- Status
Similar threads
