2000 CVPI radiator/antifreeze issue

Status
Not open for further replies.

902

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
2,391
Location
Downsouthsomewhere
So, I bought my wife a 2000 P71 CVPI as a cheap, "well maintained" car. It's her second one (she blew the engine in the first one) and it's a pretty comfortable car, even though she gets tons of stares in it. As it turns out, it ain't cheap.

The other week she was driving home and started leaking coolant. I came down with a pressure tester and found a crack on the tank side of the radiator that was just spraying out under pressure. Had it towed home and had my son replace the radiator. The new one was one-for-one with the old one, and didn't really have anything different about it, except it didn't have the crack on the side. It was pretty straightforward and he didn't have any parts left over.

Here's the issue - after filling the expansion tank and letting the car run for a while, it sucked down coolant (50/50) and was doing fine. The thermostat opened and it took more coolant. We added some more and it ran for maybe 20 minutes until the gauge spiked and "boosh!" - the mighty fury of boil-over from the expansion tank pressure relief cap.

My first thought was that there was air in the system. So, I had my son take off the upper hose and thermostat, and fill the engine directly with 50/50 coolant. He replaced the thermostat with a new one (didn't think it was a problem, but since we were there and replaced the hose, too...). My wife drove the car around and after maybe 10 miles and 20 minutes of running, noticed the gauge creeping upward beyond normal. It didn't boil over that time, but was running hot.

I squeeze the upper hose and see the level in the expansion tank changing somewhat with the squeeze, but it's not really solid until it's hot, leading me to think there's more air in the system. This is a closed system. There's no cap on the darned radiator, so it's not possible to see what's what there.

My questions - for anyone with some experience with overheating after changing out a radiator - have you encountered this, and what did you do to resolve it?

If it's a matter of bleeding the air out of the system (which I don't know for sure that's what the problem is), how and where do you do it without disconnecting hoses and having coolant spraying all over everything?

My wife wants her CVPI back, and my daughter very much wants to get her mom out of her Jeep which they're now sharing.

THANK YOU!!!
 

joetnymedic

Member
Joined
May 30, 2003
Messages
747
Location
West Haven, CT
hate to say this but sounds like cylinder head issues could be bad head gasket or warped or bad head and i've been there first hand and can tell you it sounds the same. look for oil in the coolant but that isnt always there
 

902

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
2,391
Location
Downsouthsomewhere
Uh oh! She did in the first one she had and went crop dusting with the coolant getting into the exhaust. I just dropped over $700 on this one to replace a fuel pump (all labor, couldn't be more than an $80 part) and the tank on the radiator cracked a few days later.

My son's been trying to bleed the system, but the only way that seems to work is removing one end going to the heater core. Gonna look for a syringe and pull some fluid out to look for oil.

Thanks, Joe!
 

902

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
2,391
Location
Downsouthsomewhere
Just a followup for anyone following my saga...

The Mrs. wants her car back and I stopped her from buying a bunch of head gasket goo to dump in. Instead, I bought a new radiator cap. It went from 20 minutes to about an hour to overheat. At least that's movement. One thing I did notice is that the fan came on at some points as the temperature started to go up, but it didn't turn on when it started going up fast and spiked. For the record, there is no oil in the coolant, and there is no coolant in the oil (yet... I'm still working on it).

The fan works, but I'll be checking the relays (the one from the ignition line, and the one that's pulled to ground by the PCM), the connectors, and the wiring. I probably need to change out the temperature sender to the PCM, too.

Worst case is I put a load on the PCM output (I don't know if it'll throw an error code if I let it float), then jumper that side to ground and run the fan anytime the ignition is on. After all, a mechanical clutch-driven fan out of the engine would be on all the time, why not the electric one? Yeah, I might have to replace it sooner, but I'm in a hot weather climate now, so (as we said up north) what's it gonna hurt?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top