2004 Dodge 2500 27-MHz Radio

[slowmover]

Decided I’d make two CB radio installations in my pickup (the second as basis for upgrade into Amateur).

This one is permanent. The other is a separate system where only the coax is switched to it.

In this I can swap any of three:

Uniden 880 AM
885 AM/Scanner
890 AM/SSB

and use them with the Uniden bc906W wireless mic/speaker:

The docking station was given a REFLECTIX & fabric cover. Location for maximum range.
Handset & charger in armrest console.

The U-885 is chosen so if the other rig is in operation the scanner can be used separately.

UNIDEN 885 Hybrid CB/Scanner: Best Choice for Road Trips?

I’m not going to recommend this mount location as the drop panel ought to be modified for hinges and lock-clips to keep closed.

However, I find it doesn’t unduly change my seating posture, and all controls plus cabling is in one place. (Had to make eleven connections below gear).

Power is straight from BATT, and above can be seen the temp coax connection to the temp mag mount not moved out of the way.

With a 4.5’ PROCOMM QW-45 (used on a tanker years back) atop a triple mag I’m having fewer problems with either 7-9/miles during daylight, nor 10+ at quieter hours from my electrically noisy location than when I had the Kenworth parked here using 7’ Skipshooters at 14’ tall.





A 102” whip is better yet (but needs 15’3” clearance). Excuse the appearance of my quarter-million mile pickup.


More to follow.

 

[slowmover]

Have one of my used $12 Kenwood KES-5 Public Service speakers installed under drivers seat and firing forward into the footwell.

Recommendation that audio would be good from here with this is exceeded. It’s outstanding.

With diesel engine idling I can leave drivers door open and clearly listen to NOAA as control from 20-yards (and expect farther).


Added a small Mix 31 snap ferrite at radio end and have a large M31 + M61 at speaker end. Will experiment to see if highly noisy vehicles experienced on-road justify keeping them


Added speaker case RF ground as belt & suspenders.

(Pic, as also with first, is before all is arranged and put away).

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[slowmover]

A28 UHF Ground

A28 Operation & Mods

Plenty of noise on coax shield this install. None from center conductor to temp mag mount. None from dedicated BATT power. Antenna coax is THE source (this radio rig, thus far).

This $10 experiment is worthy. Run 10-AWG to sheetmetal ground. (And one from radio case).

Noise not eliminated, but tempered. Noise sources external to vehicle are much clearer (better).

Audio is cleaned up considerably.

Coax Noise Test

Perform this test on-highway with assistant, not just in your driveway during engine-off initial install. Run headlights, wipers, defroster (A/C engaged) so as to replicate the bad weather conditions when you most need a CB Radio.

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[slowmover]

Permanent antenna install to follow.

Your comments & opinions invited.

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[slowmover]

K0BG: RF & DC Grounds

K0BG: Bonding

This is a subject pair I’ve tended to do together. Time for one is time for the other.

Constructed each type to crawl under truck; then the topside.


Each of four (4) doors; X2 hinges (8/ea RF Bonds). As an example.



Each side of hood rear. Front has looped braid which “connects” closed hood to radiator crossmember. (Which in turn has strap to fenders).


Bi-lateral symmetry down truck centerline.
Whatever I did on one side I did on the other.

Antenna will be roof center.

Bonding has been an ongoing project.

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[n3obl]

Great way to loose your knees in an accident. Mounting radios in the drivers area is bad voodoo.

 

[R8000]

Great way to loose your knees in an accident. Mounting radios in the drivers area is bad voodoo.

Yup.

 

[slowmover]

Great way to loose your knees in an accident. Mounting radios in the drivers area is bad voodoo.

That plastic panel would shatter with or without the radio assuming one’s knees hit it. It flips down to give access to steering column and underdash.

You’ll note I made a point in the first post to say I do not recommend this location. It’s not strong enough without work.

I’ve a few miles on it and find it okay for now. It’s “above” my knee when driving. (The relation of seat cushion height & that when in use is “off” in the picture as I was also working under the drivers seat).

Manual transmission makes for difficulty in locations.

I hoped others would not use it. Thus I’m pleased that this recommendation has been given wings.

Thx

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[slowmover]

These two are preferable in a Dodge with the man trans. (Can’t spill anything on them and no direct sun to cook them).




I should have clarified what I meant by “permanent”. There’ll be one of these three UNIDEN radios always installed. But until I have the time to create a better mount solution, the one I’m using will work. I just don’t recommend copying this aspect.

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[FiveFilter]

Great photos and tutorial Slowmover!

 

[StoliRaz]

Great way to loose your knees in an accident. Mounting radios in the drivers area is bad voodoo.

I had a similar question- wouldn't your right knee be banging against the radio all of the time? Being tall it would probably be the case with me, it would drive me nuts. I miss when trucks didn't have center consoles and a front bench seat. I had a 90's 3500 Chevy like that, rubber floor and all. It was awesome. Made mounting electronics so much easier

 

[slowmover]

I had a similar question- wouldn't your right knee be banging against the radio all of the time? Being tall it would probably be the case with me, it would drive me nuts. I miss when trucks didn't have center consoles and a front bench seat. I had a 90's 3500 Chevy like that, rubber floor and all. It was awesome. Made mounting electronics so much easier

“Below” faceplate. Against radio bottom is where interference comes in. If I back the seat off a tad it’s fine. Sort of like losing 3”.

I have long arms and legs.



MOTOROLA (1978)
Reducing Noise in 2-Way Radio Installations

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[merlin]

My legs are just too long for an installation like this.

 

[slowmover]

My legs are just too long for an installation like this.

Yeah, I’m already tired of it. Was just going to live with it. Then . . . found what I wanted in “How To” do a ceiling mount and that’s now underway.

Antenna mount is placed and new radio location is just across the rib about a foot.


Found the write-up of the pic in post #9. Here are two more. (Same brand & generation of pickup).


Short version of install is to use a 6”W x 12”L (1/2” thick) board and insert thru dome light opening (see my pic above). Epoxy after some trial fittings.

Power is an easy run from BATT to interior. Go up A-pillar and across windshield header.

A pretty fair mount of room under headliner. I found it not difficult to drop ONLY the passenger side for access. (Slow old man thirty minutes).

I’ll find a way to run the speaker wire after lengthening both inside and up Drivers B-pillar and across to radio.

Not all the little decisions have been made, but finally getting the word on a epoxied board turned the lights on.

— One uses the 12+” sheetmetal gap from rib (dome light access) to EVIC bracket.



So, it turns out that access for a permanent-mount antenna is the same for a roof-mount radio.

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[slowmover]

A radio in the Dodge is a lot less daunting than doing yet another Kenworth. Or Freightliner, Peterbilt, etc.

A half-ass install on your private vehicle won’t get the job done.

The difficulty of getting past firewall and up the A-pillars is just part of why big truck radio systems aren’t what they used to be. Composite-body is just part of it.

One must be able to overcome the deficiencies of the other mans radio system in order to communicate effectively.

I don’t know how many times I’ve had a pickemup still in view at 2-3/miles just fade out headed the opposite direction.

— Headache rack or stake pocket or hood mount plus bad antenna installations. Typical bad compromises. When 7+ miles in those circumstances is the norm. A well-sorted large car we’re still talking at 10-miles in different directions out west. Sometimes much more (desolate areas at night).

Location of Antenna is Job One.
Install of Mount and details is Job Two.
Clean power straight from BATT is Three.

Radio itself not that big
“Convenience”.

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[slowmover]

SIRIO 5000 Performer on a BREEDLOVE MOUNT is the right choice. (Lever allows fold-over).

I wanted the option of running antennas which are heavier and have a higher wind load than this.

Wont get “better” than with base-load SIRIO or a PRESIDENT Texas.


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[slowmover]

My legs are just too long for an installation like this.

I use a 36” trouser inseam. You?

It worked if that’s the only possible way to get it done.

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[slowmover]

Breedlove #601

More than is necessary.

Don’t get hung up by my choice.

BREEDLOVE MOUNT has many available choices. Must match antenna base to mount type (or, less desirably, use an adapter).

With or without Quick Disconnect


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[slowmover]

Pickup, van and SUV poor radio performance comes down almost always to antenna locations other than roof center.

The chart understates the real-world performance differences.

 

[slowmover]

83.5” PRESIDENT Texas (add for mount) atop the 69” tall Dodge.

Right at 13’ with a thin, very flexible whip.

11’ clearance a reality. (Loosen base screw and it’ll fold over, also).

Used the big truck slip-seater rig to run it thru some checks. Couldn’t tell a difference from the 108” whip on Sideband. (Not in best area for test). It’s known for being a close competitor to the two-foot taller quarter-wave.

Easier to unscrew than the 102 (3/8-24), and it’ll drop into back seat for a stop while on the road while the quarter wave can’t.

A Euro version SO-239 mount can be sourced. Use with NMO adapter k1cra or an SO-239-specific mount? Nowhere near the wind load of a quarter-wave.

Had read it was going out of production, butWalcott Radio has them in stock. 10-year warranty. (Good vendor. Have made a number of both online and retail purchases thru them).

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