2008 Colorado

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I recently acquired a Chevy Colorado 2008 Z71. I looked and found gromets on the back of the cab. However, I do not think I can get my hand positioned to push two coaxes through to the SDS 100 and/or CB.

I do not want to drill a hole anywhere. I use Tram antennas with rubber boots over the magnetic mount. The scanner antenna is a Larsen Tri-band.

Any ideas?
 

mmckenna

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I owned a 2005 and I still have a 2007 at work that some of my guys still use. Both were extended cab Z71's. Which cab do you have?

Drilling is the easy way. I agree, coming up on almost 20 years old. The one at work has 3 NMO's on it.

Never tried running anything through the rear vents. I'm sure that would work, but it would keep the vents open a bit.
Getting through the firewall is the other option. If I recall correctly, theirs a large grommet above the drivers footwell. Since these trucks could be optioned with a stick shift (what I had), there should be plenty of room if you need to go that route.

Power/ignition switched circuit were super easy on these.
 

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At present, I am going to feed the wire due to current availability of funds.

I will have a professional install these antennas.

However, I will go to: Home - troyradio.net

When/if I install a CB NMO antenna via hole mount, I want a decent stinger that equals the length of the Tram 3500. It is a rather long stinger.

"Does the CB NMO mount have to be specific to the CB frequency range?

I will use my Larsen Tri-band on a NMO specific to the frequency band, I guess. I will run 58U, not 58AU. I cannot even solder a 1/4 guitar cord.

I've never used a permanent mount. Yes, both responses were good & will be influential in my decisions.

My dear CB friend who owned "Charlie's Airwaves" near Missouri City lost his shop to hurricane Harvey flooding. He was my go-to-guy.

Back in the day, Andy's Electronics near Telephone Road was a great place as well. I remember buying a Regency MX7000 there. It was over $518 if my memory is correct. I loved that radio. At the time, I don't believe there were any frequency gaps. This was when people had 3-watt bag phones. Sadly, the MX7000 keyboard when south.

Thanks.
 

mmckenna

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At present, I am going to feed the wire due to current availability of funds.

I will have a professional install these antennas.

However, I will go to: Home - troyradio.net

When/if I install a CB NMO antenna via hole mount, I want a decent stinger that equals the length of the Tram 3500. It is a rather long stinger.

The Larsen NMO-34 coil with the 64" whip seems to be a popular solution. Trouble is, the CB band is outside the cut chart range for the NMO-34 coil, so you need to either take your time with an SWR meter, or better yet, use an antenna analyzer.

"Does the CB NMO mount have to be specific to the CB frequency range?

No. The basic NMOK is good well up past 800MHz band. It'll work just fine on CB, and the mounts are standardized.

I will use my Larsen Tri-band on a NMO specific to the frequency band, I guess. I will run 58U, not 58AU. I cannot even solder a 1/4 guitar cord.

No band specific mount needed unless you are using very specific antennas way up in the GHz range and need those specific high frequency mounts. Just go with the Larsen NMO mounts, skip the Cheap Chinese stuff. Don't drill a hole in a perfectly good truck and then install the cheapest NMO mount you can find. It's not worth it.
 

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Now this is a proper CB shop! I prefer old Coots like me.

When I lived in Houston, this was a place where you could easy get lost in another store in SW Houston.

Electronic Parts Outlet
 

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I was going to use a 3rd light mount like this one; I am not paying this much. I am going to the two-way radio shop.
 

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mmckenna

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I was going to use a 3rd light mount like this one; I am not paying this much. I am going to the two-way radio shop.

Those do get very expensive, and one of the issues with these older Canyon/Colorado trucks is that the 3rd brake light sealing would fail after some amount of time. I had to reseal the one on our work truck when we noticed water getting in.

The other drawback to those mounts is that the put the antenna at the far edge of the ground plane, which will toss your signal mostly in one direction.

Certainly an option if drilling is not something you are willing to do, but it does come with tradeoffs.
 

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Those do get very expensive, and one of the issues with these older Canyon/Colorado trucks is that the 3rd brake light sealing would fail after some amount of time. I had to reseal the one on our work truck when we noticed water getting in.

The other drawback to those mounts is that the put the antenna at the far edge of the ground plane, which will toss your signal mostly in one direction.

Certainly an option if drilling is not something you are willing to do, but it does come with tradeoffs.

I fixed the stock 3rd brake light by putting a LED version with proper OED. It was very easy to install.

I cannot find the radio tech anymore. I don't know if his telephone number changed. He is the only one in this area I would trust to do a proper installation.

I called another professional two-way business and learned they could install the NMO. However, when he mentioned the hourly rate of what was described as a 2–3-hour job, I was shocked.

I also talked to an old-timer trucker the other day. I only use the CB on the road. The trucker told me he used to have two co-phased antennas but now has one mounted on the left side so that he can improve performance for Bear Reports.

He told me to install a top bed rail & route the coax underneath the pickup.

He suggested I remove two screws on the back, pull out the bottom liner, and see if I can pass the cable through the gromets on the back of the cab or go through the firewall.

So, let's say that the PL-259 wiggled off. Would I need to pull all of the coax to have the end of the coax fixed with a new PL-259? Do some radio shops solder in the vehicle.

So, I am thinking of other options.

Thanks for all of the help.
 

mmckenna

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So, let's say that the PL-259 wiggled off. Would I need to pull all of the coax to have the end of the coax fixed with a new PL-259? Do some radio shops solder in the vehicle.

They'd probably just crimp a new one on. Only time I solder connectors are those with a solder center pin. Only takes a few minutes to install.
 

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They'd probably just crimp a new one on. Only time I solder connectors are those with a solder center pin. Only takes a few minutes to install.
I did not know they made crimps for a braided center conductor for a PL-259. I might be able to do this.

Due to the easy to find screw-on BNC connectors, I am going to stick with a solid copper center for the scanner.

Thanks.
 

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I am going to ask someone at a stereo place to pull the coax from the left fender inside the cab.

Since Snap-On uses China, I guess they make some folks happy.

I will see what happens & how it talks. I can replace the components, a little at a time. The RK-56 Ranger is from overseas I hear.

Then, I will see which NMO mount I will need for the Larsen Tri-band for the SDS 100.
 
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mmckenna

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Then, I will see which NMO mount I will need for the Larsen Tri-band for the SDS 100.

If you are mounting on the front fender where the underside of the NMO mount will be exposed, you'll want to use one of these Larsen NMOHF style mounts, as the underside is enclosed:

You'll also want to slide some marine grade heat shrink tubing over the coax where it enters the NMO mount to make sure its sealed. Marine grade heat shrink has a hot melt adhesive on the inside that will melt when it's shrunk and will flow.

You don't want to use the standard NMO mounts, as those are designed to go through the roof of the vehicle where the underside is protected. If you use one of those, water, road salts, oil, etc. will quickly destroy the coax. If someone tells you it doesn't matter, ignore them, they are just lucky.
 

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If you are mounting on the front fender where the underside of the NMO mount will be exposed, you'll want to use one of these Larsen NMOHF style mounts, as the underside is enclosed:

You'll also want to slide some marine grade heat shrink tubing over the coax where it enters the NMO mount to make sure its sealed. Marine grade heat shrink has a hot melt adhesive on the inside that will melt when it's shrunk and will flow.

You don't want to use the standard NMO mounts, as those are designed to go through the roof of the vehicle where the underside is protected. If you use one of those, water, road salts, oil, etc. will quickly destroy the coax. If someone tells you it doesn't matter, ignore them, they are just lucky.
My favorite all time police scanner antenna was an Antenna Specialist ANT-51 I think.

It used NMO, trunk lip. However, there was a black cylindrical choke called a "microchoke" specific to 800 mhz. Do you remember this one? I loved it.

Thanks for all of the help.
 

mmckenna

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My favorite all time police scanner antenna was an Antenna Specialist ANT-51 I think.

It used NMO, trunk lip. However, there was a black cylindrical choke called a "microchoke" specific to 800 mhz. Do you remember this one? I loved it.

Thanks for all of the help.

Was the choke on the coax or the antenna?
 
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