- Status
@ W9RXR I have taken your advice and twisted it.... Excellent Idea and good looking solution!
Here is what I twisted: Looking through all of the Troy console faceplate specifications and doing the faceplate search on eBay (I LOVE eBAY) I came across the mount for a Motorola STX Convertacom.
The opening is 1/4" taller and spot on in width compared to the TM-D710a's control head. I'll use your idea for the mounting scheme (screw holes in back of control head) and bolt it to the mounting tabs. Of course I'll have to elongate the side holes to accomodate the AvMap and CAT-5 cables on the left side of the head.
The best part: 20 bucks verses 96 bucks!
FP-MSTXCON Troy Faceplate 4" Converticom STX Series New:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Ironic because I have an old STX and convertacom from my days in Knoxville.
Here is what I twisted: Looking through all of the Troy console faceplate specifications and doing the faceplate search on eBay (I LOVE eBAY) I came across the mount for a Motorola STX Convertacom.
The opening is 1/4" taller and spot on in width compared to the TM-D710a's control head. I'll use your idea for the mounting scheme (screw holes in back of control head) and bolt it to the mounting tabs. Of course I'll have to elongate the side holes to accomodate the AvMap and CAT-5 cables on the left side of the head.
The best part: 20 bucks verses 96 bucks!
FP-MSTXCON Troy Faceplate 4" Converticom STX Series New:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Ironic because I have an old STX and convertacom from my days in Knoxville.
Last edited:
Console Wiring
Terminal boards make for long tedious wiring jobs but they are neat and orderly. The BIG plus it that it is much easier to troubleshoot a problem. I guess the old missile tech is comming out again.
Attach terminal boards
Front board is wiring that came from Chevy:
Detail:
I know, I know..... I'll need a heavier ground wire than that but I just want to run my scanner for now.
The most important part will be here Tue or Wed, the drink holder!! The faceplate for the Kenwood TM-D710 should be here at the same time.
Terminal boards make for long tedious wiring jobs but they are neat and orderly. The BIG plus it that it is much easier to troubleshoot a problem. I guess the old missile tech is comming out again.
Attach terminal boards
Front board is wiring that came from Chevy:
Detail:
I know, I know..... I'll need a heavier ground wire than that but I just want to run my scanner for now.
The most important part will be here Tue or Wed, the drink holder!! The faceplate for the Kenwood TM-D710 should be here at the same time.
@ Essex Thank you again for a copy of the PPV manual. I was trying to trace out the pre-wired siren and grille light circuits yesterday and having a difficult time with it. The manual helped me find the speaker wiring but I'm still looking for the lights. I'm going to pull in 2 more circuits up front because you never know what kind of toys they will come out with later on down the road.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2002
- Messages
- 3,620
Your best bet is to run a fairly heavy guage for + to the console and another to the rear (if your mounting back there) and use a local ground.
Also consider using a commerical terminal strip/power center. Many installers and private persons have taken a liking to the marine grade dist blocks with great sucess. Just don't over complicate things.
IIRC, a properly option PPV/SSV etc should have a nice wire bundle and everything already marked. Check under the passenger glove box or in the area. I think all three manufactures have their cabling there. SHouldn't be too hard to locate at all.
Again, wait until you have everything before playing around or you WILL lose your mind. More you open up and close things up the more you will strip/break/rerun/crimp wires, screws, plastic etc.
Also consider using a commerical terminal strip/power center. Many installers and private persons have taken a liking to the marine grade dist blocks with great sucess. Just don't over complicate things.
IIRC, a properly option PPV/SSV etc should have a nice wire bundle and everything already marked. Check under the passenger glove box or in the area. I think all three manufactures have their cabling there. SHouldn't be too hard to locate at all.
Again, wait until you have everything before playing around or you WILL lose your mind. More you open up and close things up the more you will strip/break/rerun/crimp wires, screws, plastic etc.
Essexscan
Member
Your welcome, i'm glad it helped you out. Hope it saved you some time too
@ PJ the accy plug is right under the dash and the colors match the manual that came with the truck and the more extensive one that Essex gave me, BUT the colors of the wires terminated behind the grille are NOT the same colors and I can't find the leads for the lights at all. The headlight wig-wag is a drop in option and the wiring is in it's correct place. Now to order a flasher module and be done with that part. I have wired so many special service type vehicles that I can't count them all and I have always ran into conflicts in the wiring system and always wind up pulling my own circuits to do the job RIGHT.
Today I completed the dash camera / GPS by pulling power and serial interface for the AvMap GPS and the USB & microphone cable for the dash cam. I also pulled siren speaker wire and LED power / sync cables so that should complete the wiring from the front bumper to the front console and most of the cabling to the rear equipment cabinet. Luckily Chevy has a 50 amp line going to the front console and 2 100 amp lines terminated in the back drivers rear wheel well. Everything but the scanner is a remote head radio so I need to start designing a cabinet. First some faceplates and a storage box / armrest, then the aft command cabinet.
Today I completed the dash camera / GPS by pulling power and serial interface for the AvMap GPS and the USB & microphone cable for the dash cam. I also pulled siren speaker wire and LED power / sync cables so that should complete the wiring from the front bumper to the front console and most of the cabling to the rear equipment cabinet. Luckily Chevy has a 50 amp line going to the front console and 2 100 amp lines terminated in the back drivers rear wheel well. Everything but the scanner is a remote head radio so I need to start designing a cabinet. First some faceplates and a storage box / armrest, then the aft command cabinet.
pddispatcher
Member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2004
- Messages
- 11
Where are you in TN...
Heck I might hire ya to check an install I had done for my truck and redo it if necessary.
I'm in KY.
Heck I might hire ya to check an install I had done for my truck and redo it if necessary.
I'm in KY.
Shelby County / Memphis c'mon down!
emd001
Member
Just wanted to drop a note and let you know I have really enjoyed reading this thread so far, I love your attention to detail and I can't wait to see the rest.
@ W9RXR I owe you big time for this idea!
First I got the FP-MSTXCON Troy Faceplate for the Motorola STX Converticom on e-Bay:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Then a little scrap sheet metal, a Dremel tool and some spray paint. Notch the faceplate to accept the GPS and CAT-5 cable:
Made a template to mount the control head to the sheetmetal bracket:
A little spray paint to make it look better and this is what we got:
Then into the console:
First I got the FP-MSTXCON Troy Faceplate for the Motorola STX Converticom on e-Bay:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Then a little scrap sheet metal, a Dremel tool and some spray paint. Notch the faceplate to accept the GPS and CAT-5 cable:
Made a template to mount the control head to the sheetmetal bracket:
A little spray paint to make it look better and this is what we got:
Then into the console:
And I'm working on a map & portable radio holder to go alongside the 18" console.
A little sheet metal and some bedliner to cover my mistakes makes a nice cubbyhole AND the cupholder is in place as well:
The bedliner has to set for 72 hours before I can sand it out. It will finish smoother and look better I promise!
A little sheet metal and some bedliner to cover my mistakes makes a nice cubbyhole AND the cupholder is in place as well:
The bedliner has to set for 72 hours before I can sand it out. It will finish smoother and look better I promise!
Starting to come together I see.
Btw. I see you went with my suggestion on the mic holder.
Shure did! Thanks for your input Lieutenant!
Maybe I can be on the air with it tomorrow...
xfhp-730
Member
Sweet looking install!
Well, you went to a lot of work on the D710 faceplate, but it does solve the problem. The thing I liked about the Jotto faceplate I found was that it already had a back to it so I didn't have to fabricate the additional bracket like you did. But, what you've done certainly works.
Now that I've mounted my D710 head in the console, I'm not crazy about the location. Since I'm into APRS, I'd like the head to be more visible. So, I'm now contemplating mounting locations in my F-150 that will get the head closer to my line of sight.
Now that I've mounted my D710 head in the console, I'm not crazy about the location. Since I'm into APRS, I'd like the head to be more visible. So, I'm now contemplating mounting locations in my F-150 that will get the head closer to my line of sight.
I might have a solution for you:
Reworked the GPS and D710 bracket to fit the leading contour of the dash:
Mounted the control head & GPS:
Then Mounted it to the dash:
- Status
Similar threads
